Matching aluminum plate

donwon

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Jan 19, 2013
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I will be machining a 1/4" aluminum plate with holes and rounding corners along with radiusing the edges.

I know for the holes I can use carbide drill bits but can I use normal carbide router bits for the edges?  Also any thoughts for how to polish the aluminum plate?
 
I have polished aluminum plate successfully with my RO-90 and progressive grits from 500 through 2000 and then jumping to a polishing pad using Festool polishing compounds.  It will give you a mirror finish.

See this thread -

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-how-to/polishing-aluminium/msg456938/#msg456938

As for using router bits, see this thread:

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/will-carbide-tipped-wood-router-bits-cut-aluminum-255823/

I'd suggest you only try with 1/2" shanks and only in a router table with WD-40 for lubrication and a slow and steady feed rate.

And wear eye protection and no dust collection.

 
You can use regular drill bits for aluminum.
For rounding corners etc. use mills designed for metal. Try small diameter mills with appropriate shank size to fit router. Alternatively carbide burrs used in grinders work well.
 
You do not need carbide. The main issue is that some alloys can be gummy. The 7075, 2024, etc do good. The gummy alloys need the WD40 and a slower speed, and you need to be making chips and not just rubbing the bit and heating it all up. So you generally are better off with a but of a push. The lube does not really ever hit the bit in a conventional cut, so I am not sure how it helps, but it does. I would use an upspiral bit.

A deburring tool is handy or just a few file strokes to break the sharp corners.

As mentioned 600 and upwards with polishing compound after you get to 1200 or 2000 and then it should shine.
 
I usually use a stick wax for drilling or cutting aluminum. A typical twist bit is all you need, but it does help a lot to grind the flutes a little more open to allow for easier chip relief.
 
[member=18132]donwon[/member] - take a look at Pat Warner's website - www.patwarner.com - he is the aluminum router guru IMHO, and a hoot to deal with.

RMW
 
+Pat Warner  He makes some greater router bottom plates also.  Like Richard said a great guy to work with.

Rusty
 
Use WD40 and a scotch brite pad. Spray the surface and use some elbow grease. If need be use so 220grit to get the rough spots out then the scotch. I've polished to much alum this way. We polish stall strips for airplanes this way and they can't have a single scratch on the surface. Mothers mag and alum polish works good too.
 
Forstner bits work on Aluminum too. Clean Holes.
I used the cheap P-C bits, not Famag's.

WD, clamped & slower speeds.
By hand would most likely wander a lil, depends ow you approach it.
Just let the bit do the cutting, clamp it & dont force it.

 
Troutbum86 said:
Use WD40 and a scotch brite pad. Spray the surface and use some elbow grease. If need be use so 220grit to get the rough spots out then the scotch. I've polished to much alum this way. We polish stall strips for airplanes this way and they can't have a single scratch on the surface. Mothers mag and alum polish works good too.

3M makes many different scotch brite pads of different abrasaviness and for materials.  I have used several of them like scotch brite pad 7447 and other finishes. So for the most part you'll be hand finishing it to a polish. You can also call their tech support line and they are helpful to a point. They know the products but the reps probably have never physically used the product. Amazon sells it and some of the other online companies, industrial supply companies ( McMaster Carr , graingers (expensive)) and paint stores
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MIndustrial/Abrasives/Brands/Scotch-Brite-Abrasives/
 
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