McFeely screw assortment in Systainer 1

GreenGA said:
Sure would like to see a Sortainer used as one of the configuration options. ;D

Me too!

How about a 'Cabinetmaker's Assortment' with some small brass screws for hinges, some #6 and #8 flatheads for assembly, some short washer head machine screws for handles/pulls, etc.
 
I second the motion for Sortainers with both pocket-hole and cabinet-maker's sets.  For instance, the 32mm system screws for Blum hinges/slides.
 
Nice to see some real direct customer based feedback in process here. Give'em what they want ! This is starting to sound pretty good.

Looks like pocket hole screws gaining momentum with cabinet maker's sets a close second. Including a combination of the two.  ;D

My current stock of pocket hole supply is steadily depleting. And a nice new Systainer or maybe even two ?  - loaded to the brim (high screw count even with the pocket hole type, full systainer capacity) with all those crazy colors  ::) to house them in is starting to sound very good.  And if there's still room in there toss in a couple of magnetic square drivers short and long. Make us an offer we can't refuse.
Thanks Santa,  err Ron. 

 
 
I am also seconding/thirding or is it fourthing, for Sortainer setup.

I am working out to put as much of my odds & ends, screws, wrenches, parts, etc,etc,etc into sortainers. 
So far only two one for jig saw and related tools and parts and one for my WoodRat with assorted parts, bolts, wrenches and etc,etc,etc.  A third one will be for my C12 drill with bits, chucks, hopefully charger, center punches, etc etc  Doing it this way, i can move stacks of necessary tools and all accessories set up to move to the job.  I can leave the sortainers at bottom, mid way or on top so i don't have to split up stacks with the resulting scatter of systainers I am trying to avoid. 

I also end up with emty systainers that I will be making my own sorting boxes out of wood/aluminum andor copper.  whatever i have lieing arond in hidden corners of shop. 

While mentioning combination of copper and/or aluminum:  When i was a mason contractor, i often did my own flashing work on small to medium sized chimneys if I did not have too much work ahead.  For outside work, we always had to be sure the runoff of rain from an aluminum flashing was not going to contant aluminum further down the roof (or visa-versa0 as tere could be a detrimental reaction much like acid.  does anybody know if this would happen with mixing parts trays as mentioned above? There would certainly be no moisture problem involved.  If no replies to this, i will just try it myself.  A good way to use up scraps and short rolls i have waiting for use in cellar and barn.

Tinker
 
Was it a dielectric reaction? An anode cathode thing? The rainwater and the two metals made a battery. The parts trays would probably have to be in constant contact with each other, like riveted together.
 
Eli said:
Was it a dielectric reaction? An anode cathode thing? The rainwater and the two metals made a battery. The parts trays would probably have to be in constant contact with each other, like riveted together.

Not being a chemist or physicist, i think you are correct.  I have always thought that sufficient moisture was necessary to create the problem.

If i thought a problem was unavoidable, i hired a "tinner" to do the "tinker's" work. 

not that I was sneaky  8)

Tinker
 
Tinker said:
Eli said:
Was it a dielectric reaction? An anode cathode thing? The rainwater and the two metals made a battery. The parts trays would probably have to be in constant contact with each other, like riveted together.

Not being a chemist or physicist

Or a plumber. What reminded me of the name was the dielectric union, a special joint whosis for joining copper and iron pipes so they are insulated from each other.
 
Three things are required for galvanic corrosion to occur:

1) dissimilar metals (on the galvanic scale)
2) an electrolyte (such as water)
3) an electrical connection between the two dissimilar metals, eg. a steel bolt screwed into an aluminum plate.

Remove any one of the three and the problem goes away.  If that is not possible,  the less noble of the two metals can be protected by adding an anode that is lower on the galvanic scale.

I've learned more about this than I ever wanted to know after buying a boat that was constructed out of aluminum plate.  Under the right (WRONG) circumstances I can get a hole eaten right through the bottom of the boat in a matter of hours.

Fred

 
Overtime said:
Nice to see some real direct customer based feedback in process here. Give'em what they want ! This is starting to sound pretty good.

Looks like pocket hole screws gaining momentum with cabinet maker's sets a close second. Including a combination of the two.  ;D

My current stock of pocket hole supply is steadily depleting. And a nice new Systainer or maybe even two ?  - loaded to the brim (high screw count even with the pocket hole type, full systainer capacity) with all those crazy colors  ::) to house them in is starting to sound very good.  And if there's still room in there toss in a couple of magnetic square drivers short and long. Make us an offer we can't refuse.
Thanks Santa,  err Ron. 

 

  Patrick, I use my SYS box-1 (systainer with little colored boxes) to store my pocket screws and kreg R2 jig, mini jig and plugs. The only thing I don't have room for in the Systainer is the kreg clamp. it really works well for me. You can see I still have the small red bins open for when I get around to ordering McFeely's SS pocket screws. (Edited to add: This is not the McFeely's package, it is what I put together myself. Maybe they should think about offering a package like this, with the Kreg jig and screws in the Systainer.)

PIC_0066smaller.jpg
 
GreenGA said:
Sure would like to see a Sortainer used as one of the configuration options. ;D

I'm investigating the sortainer option now. My prime concern there is that Festool can support my request. These things tend to be pretty popular and we could deplete sortainer stock quickly. I'll know today or tomorrow, however.
 
Brice Burrell said:
Ron Pegram said:
.......My plan is to introduce a Kreg pockethole version, a McFeely's pockethole version, a connecting screw version and a combo recess version as suggested here. I follow this thread pretty regularly so if anyone would like to see a different version, this is the place to tell me.....

Ron, will the McFeely's pocket hole screw version include your stainless steel pocket screws?

Why yes, it will. I really like the McFeely's pocket-hole version. I'm not knocking Kreg but we have some nice options for the McFeely's one. They should both be distinctive and winners in their own rights.
 
Tim Sproul said:
GreenGA said:
Sure would like to see a Sortainer used as one of the configuration options. ;D

Me too!

How about a 'Cabinetmaker's Assortment' with some small brass screws for hinges, some #6 and #8 flatheads for assembly, some short washer head machine screws for handles/pulls, etc.

Tim,

If you'll give me a breakdown of what sizes you'd find most attractive, this will happen. There are a lot of options in machine screws and because I'm not working with handles and pulls as regularly as you are, your insight is infinitely better than mine. Also, should those machine screws be stainless or regular steel in your opinion?

I'm driving my production people crazy. LOL. But this thread is testament to why Festool customers are the best. You guys know what you want and you make it easy for me. What more could I ask for?

Well, I'll need to ask for more systainers! That's for sure.
 
  Brice,
Yep, that's the ticket !  8)

That is exactly what I had in mind. And your photo shows me (confirms) that the drill bit and long square drive and Mini jig will fit nicely into that setup. I had not thought about placing  plugs in there as well. But that is about as good as can be to keep it all together. Kreg screws or McFeelys screws, whatever is OK by me.

  Some prefer the idea of the Sortainer for this type of storage and while I do like them (don't have any yet), for these pocket type screws I would rather open the lid and look directly at the selection at hand in that configuration as opposed to opening multiple drawers even if they are labled.

  I have plenty of the typical racks of stacked clear plastic pull out bins that you can somewhat see what you got and are looking for. And it's a good solution for the not so commonly used stuff. But for the most used fasteners I don't like opening drawers to find em.

  Kreg's 675 pc screw kit in the plastic case configuration is a nice compact storage solution in itself, just open the lid. Taking it to the next step like you have done is just what I intend to do. You can see instantly what your stock situation is.

If the lid had a little more depth to it then the clamp could, might fit into the molded formed insert via a cutout. 

Thanks for the pic !
   
 
Anyone interested in a Sys-Set including an assortment of Spax screws or equivalent?  I find their product advertising claims pretty much match performance - easy to drive and minimal or no need to drill a pilot hole to prevent splitting in most applications.  Their high strength relative to shank size and thread design enables their use in place of multiple other specially designed fastners.  Combi-head or square drive would be fine.

Dave R.
 
Overtime said:
....If the lid had a little more depth to it then the clamp could, might fit into the molded formed insert via a cutout.... 

  Patrick I don't know if cutting the foam to fit the clamp in would work or not. The foam on top is to keep stuff from migrating. It's not a big deal to me because I use the large plate clamp most of the time. One last thing, I have Kreg's 675 pc screw kit in the plastic case but put in the Systainer because was not stout enough to travel everyday.

  I'm going to have a review of the Festool SYS box-1 (Systainer with little colored boxes) up here and on my site, if anyone is interested in some more info on these Systainers. I hope to have it up in a few days.
 
Dave Ronyak said:
Anyone interested in a Sys-Set including an assortment of Spax screws or equivalent?  I find their product advertising claims pretty much match performance - easy to drive and minimal or no need to drill a pilot hole to prevent splitting in most applications.  Their high strength relative to shank size and thread design enables their use in place of multiple other specially designed fastners.  Combi-head or square drive would be fine.

Dave R.

We have a version of that coming. We're debuting a combo drive screw assortment and all of the #8 screws in that assortment will have a serrated thread. We find that serrated thread works best in the #8 version for various reasons.

It's pretty much the equivalent of the 1300-FSL we're offering now but with the combo recess and the serrated threads on the #8 screws. I think you'll be happy with that one.

Boy, I love this thread.
 
bruegf said:
I've learned more about this than I ever wanted to know after buying a boat that was constructed out of aluminum plate.  Under the right (WRONG) circumstances I can get a hole eaten right through the bottom of the boat in a matter of hours.

That's how I learned the word anode. A steel hulled boat came out of dry dock and was moored next to ours, sank in a few hours, from the lack of a zinc anode. Very ugly situation.
 
You definitely need to maintain the anodes on a metal hulled boat.  Mine also has a CAPAC meter that measures the voltage between the hull and a silver/silver chloride reference anode, which gives me a way to monitor how well the anodes are performing.

Fred
 
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