Media Storage Cabinet

CharlesWilson

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Joined
Jan 22, 2007
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458
This media cabinet was constructed from the article "Tri-fold Storage Cabinet" by Glen Huey in Popular Woodworking (February 2006). I modified the plans to suit my particular needs, by increasing the height of the piece by approximately 18", and reducing the spacing between shelves in order to hold a larger quantity of fixed size media (predominantly CD's and DVD's in jewel cases). I assembled all shelves to the sides using sliding dovetails, and opted to use 1/2" instead of 1/4" plywood for the backs. This unit was constructed using Black Walnut. There was a large mix of heartwood and sapwood, which results in a wide variation of appearance.

The following pictures illustrate the construction process.

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The above picture illustrates the method used for cutting the stopped dovetails in the sides. The cuts were bookmatched, and the area between the two boards (in the center) was already notched to receive the back, so that dovetailing could be started from the center, and proceed outward to the stops (shown on the guide rail). Below is a close up of the guide rail and tool setup.

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The cabinet consists of three rows of shelves, one set in the base unit, and the other two in each of the two doors that swing open on piano hinges. Each of the doors is constructed with mitered corners between the sides and the top and bottom. These mitered corners are reinforced with splines as shown in the following diagrams. In the original article, the author created these splines by running the door frames at a 45 degree angle across the table saw. This was not possible in my shop due to the fact that the doors were somewhat larger, and my ceiling is only 7 ½ feet high. The two pictures, below, show how I guided my TS75 to make the slots for the splines. The first photo shows the view from the top, with the guide rail and stops. The second photo shows the view from underneath where the corner fits into the area provided. The guide rail, above, directs the saw to make a cut through the corner. The guide rail is repositioned to perform two more cuts before the door is flipped over, and three more slits are made.
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The picture below shows the slots made for the splines cut into a corner of one of the doors.
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The splines were then glued into place, trimmed, and sanded.
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The base unit and two doors then had the shelves installed. The dovetail joints on the shelves were only glued at rear since the joint itself will be holding things together. The glue will keep the shelves from creeping away from the backs.
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The front door face was of rail-stile construction, with two raised panels. After assembly, it was glued to the rest of the front door.
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The Domino arrived just in time for construction of the base and feet. I used the Domino to pin the mitered feet together. Due to the thickness of the material, I need to shorten the Dominos. I used a clamp to steady the unit on the foot before plunging.
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After the final assembly and finishing, the unit was loaded up, and put into service. Here is the media cabinet at its present resting place. (The foam on the piece of furniture at left will be replaced with a more attractive bumper guard.)
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With the front door open, the second door and its contents are visible. On the bottom is a sliding shelf on which rests a DJ’s case that can hold over 500 CD’s or DVD’s.
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Here the second door is open, revealing the shelves in the base unit. The bottom sliding shelf has been pulled out to give easy access to the metal case.
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A cupboard latch from Lee Valley is used to hold the unit closed.
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Final adjustment to the fit and smooth operation of the doors was accomplished by fastening a 2x4 to the wall behind the unit and securing the sub-top to that board on both sides. Then, proper positioning of the rear feet magically aligned the two doors, and removed all tendencies for them to swing open or closed!
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  Real nice job, Charles. I like those splines! Thanks for posting. BTW, what was youur finish?

Bob

 
I used an oil finish marketed as 'Bush Oil'. From what I understand, it has a relatively low percentage of solvents in it, so that it actually starts building up as additional applications are made.

I finished up with a wax containing mostly beeswax from Lee Valley.

Charles
 
I agree Fantastic work Charles... Makes me want to go out in the shed now and play with my fes tools. Great cabinet.... Well done  ;D
 
A super job Charles! I really enjoyed your in-progress shots. Particularly the jig for the splines. Thank you very much for sharing.
- Daniel
 
Beautiful cabinet , love the wood - all of it. Looks plenty stout to hold all the weight.
  Thanks for the progress pics and for showing the set ups for the stopped dovetails and splines. I could use a tutorial or utube series just on "the many Router related uses of the festool guide rails" and that's a great start.
 
Overtime said:
.........I could use a tutorial or utube series just on "the many Router related uses of the festool guide rails" and that's a great start.
Good idea, who is going to do, any volunteers.
 
Well, I hate to volunteer you Brice, but you have sure made good use of media so far. . . :D
 
Charles,

That is a beautiful cabinet. I wish I had had those plans when I made one for my niece. It only had one storage area instead of three.

Rocker
 
Dave Rudy said:
Well, I hate to volunteer you Brice, but you have sure made good use of media so far. . . :D
  If I could find the time I think I would, but I'm not sure when that would be. You could have a go at it Dave, or maybe Mr. Wilson has some time now that he just finished this project, nice job by the way. I like the heartwood and sapwood variation.
 
And to expand on the toutrial or video thought. I have seen numerous features on using the guide rails and routers from Jerry Work and Woodshop Demos and also Mirko's fantastic LR32 setup. Others as well. And theres plenty of bits and pieces of info here and there. Theres alot of info out there. But it would be nice to have a single source to bring it all together. A spicific and comprehensive look at the various tasks including the attachments and jigs used in relation to the Festool guide rails and the routers. Could be It's own topic.
  I'm thinking - segments of set up and follow thru of spicific tasks such as Charles has done here with the stopped dovetail cut. That photo alone answers dozens of questions for me. (example- so that's what those black knobed rectangle slides with the micro adjust are for!)  There are 7 or 8 different Festool components and accessories in that shot. And yet it is clear what the objective and outcome is. While I have had my Festool routers for some time it is a new thing for me to have the rails.

  Patrick 
 
Charles,

A very nice cabinet, indeed.  I recall the base article on the hanging tool chest (for a very large chisel and carving tool collection) in FWW.

I am currently building a large garage storage cabinet the sides of which are of 3/4 birch plywood without any face frame.  To cover the interior chest of HD drawers, I built two storage doors, each about 80" H x 18" W x 4" deep.  The perimeter frames of the doors are 3/4" poplar and the single panel is 1/2 birch plywood, rabbeted, glued and brad nailed.  I plan to install shelves in these doors and load them with spray cans and tools such as wood planes.  The empty weight of each door will be about 40 lbs.  I have yet to decide on the hinges to be used, and none of the offerings at Lee Valley or Rockler's seem to be designed for heavy loads.  The best choice appears to be a continuous (piano) hinge.  My hinge mounting options appear to be 1) as shown in your media storage cabinet and 2) to simply install the hinge so that when the doors are closed, both of the flanges and the pin will be fully exposed to the outside of the cabinet.  Number 2) appears to be stronger in the sense that the screws would be placed in shear loading most of the time.  In contrast, number 1) would hide the hinges except for the pin, but the screws would be in tension, and those fastened to the sides of the cabinet would be oriented parallel to the laminations of the plywood. 

Have you experienced any hinge screw pullout or breakage?

I am also contemplating making a CD storage cabinet for my daughter and son-in-law.  Both are musicians and they have a large collection of CDs in jewel cases.  What are the details of your shelf design?  Did you tilt the shelves from front to rear to help keep the CDs on the shelf?  Is there any lip on the front edges of the shelves?  Any features to keep the CDs on a partially full shelf from flopping over to rest on their flat sides? 

If you were to build another cabinet for storage of CDs, would you make any design changes?

Would you simply use Dominos instead of splines to reinforce the joints?  (I have made many projects using spline reinforced joints, but unlike you I cut stopped spline grooves on the insides of the pieces to be joined using a tablesaw (or Shopsmith with its tilting table).  The splines are made of 1/8" baltic birch plywood.  I have not yet tried to cut spline grooves using my Festool TS 55, MFT and Guide Rail.  Today I prefer to use my Domino for joinery whenever I can, unless I am intentionally trying to make a visual statement through use of some other exposed joint.

Dave R.
 
Dave Ronyak said:
Have you experienced any hinge screw pullout or breakage?

Surprisingly, at least to me, there have been no problems with screw pullout or breakage. The doors are fully loaded now, and we have been through both summer, and now winter indoor humidity conditions without any signs of deterioration of hinge performance.

Dave Ronyak said:
I am also contemplating making a CD storage cabinet for my daughter and son-in-law.  Both are musicians and they have a large collection of CDs in jewel cases.  What are the details of your shelf design?  Did you tilt the shelves from front to rear to help keep the CDs on the shelf?  Is there any lip on the front edges of the shelves?  Any features to keep the CDs on a partially full shelf from flopping over to rest on their flat sides? 

My shelves are simply solid boards with sliding dovetails on the sides. Glen Huey's original design had provision for keeping things on the shelves (I think he used three different methods in his 'demonstration' piece). I intended to add something after the fact if I noticed any tendency for the media to fall off the shelves. Due the great mass of the doors, (even when not fully loaded), they don't swing all that rapidly, and I have not had any reason to put any lips or retainers in. The only method I have used to prevent flopping of partially full shelves of CDs is to stack some CDs horizontally at the end of short rows. In the whole cabinet, there are only two or three partially full rows now.

Dave Ronyak said:
If you were to build another cabinet for storage of CDs, would you make any design changes?

Would you simply use Dominos instead of splines to reinforce the joints?  (I have made many projects using spline reinforced joints, but unlike you I cut stopped spline grooves on the insides of the pieces to be joined using a tablesaw (or Shopsmith with its tilting table).  The splines are made of 1/8" baltic birch plywood.  I have not yet tried to cut spline grooves using my Festool TS 55, MFT and Guide Rail.  Today I prefer to use my Domino for joinery whenever I can, unless I am intentionally trying to make a visual statement through use of some other exposed joint.

Good question Dave. This is the question I asked Glen Huey before I embarked on the project. His answer was to make it larger. I did.

One of the things I had difficulty with, because of low ceilings in my shop, was the raising of the door panels (top and bottom edges). I raised the panels on my table saw. In retrospect, I think I would try to figure out a way to do it with my TS75.

Now that I have the Domino machine, (I didn't have it during most of this project), I probably would use Dominos to reinforce the joints.

In this project, the shelves were at fixed spacings because it was possible to identify the sizes of CDs and VCR tapes that needed to be stored. I have just finished a relatively simple bookcase (with variably spaced shelving) which uses Dominos instead of dowels for shelf support. Pictures should be posted within a week.

Charles
 
Chuck,
I really like this piece, and it has some great shots during the build.

Eiji
 
Charles,  great execution on your project!  The spline jig in particular is brilliant!  I've always used a table saw jig for smaller boxes and frames but yours is a great example of what the Festool "system" is capable of.  I mean how else could this be done?  I'll be sure to keep this in mind if I ever have to spline a large carcass. 
You're sure to be a front runner in this months competition.  Thanks for posting.
 
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