Melamine... chip out and black stuff on tape...

[Holmz]

If it is working for him and he is not getting chips, then one could make a cogent arguement that he did not want embarrass anyone by pointing out that the Makita has no issues???

They say a good craftsman doesn't blame his tools, but sometimes one actually has to blame the tools.

 

[JeremyH.]

Well, nothing in particular has changed. Taping, 3 spd, going not too fast, etc... Some melamine is just not that great even if you do a score line (min cut depth). I think a solid surface blade is the best option.

It seems going a little bit past the min cut depth is better, maybe plunging down most of the way. It makes the teeth up sweep, and not diagonal, so perhaps they're more likely to cut that chip. The min cut depth wasn't good.

A different iron produced less black what-ever-the-fuck gets on tape. No idea why. I guess try irons till you get a keeper? 

 

[justinh]

Well, nothing in particular has changed. Taping, 3 spd, going not too fast, etc... Some melamine is just not that great even if you do a score line (min cut depth). I think a solid surface blade is the best option.

It seems going a little bit past the min cut depth is better, maybe plunging down most of the way. It makes the teeth up sweep, and not diagonal, so perhaps they're more likely to cut that chip. The min cut depth wasn't good.

A different iron produced less black what-ever-the- gets on tape. No idea why. I guess try irons till you get a keeper?

If I'm cutting with a track saw my scoring cut is a climb cut.  I set the saw to take a shallow cut and pull it to score and then set the saw to full depth and complete the cut.  The concept is the same as a scoring saw on a table saw or a panel saw.   I use a TCG mel blade.

If I have to deal with any kind of volume I use a table saw with a fresh zero clearance insert and a H-ATB blade.  If I end up doing any more volume than I do I will add a scoring saw attachment to my saw.