Metric or imperial ts55REQ?
- Thread starter Splou
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2007
- Messages
- 11,163
[member=58556]Splou[/member], welcome to the forum.
Festool is phasing out metric scales on its tools in the U.S. That's one reason to consider going imperial, plus most Americans know inches better than millimeters/centimeters.
Shane
Festool is phasing out metric scales on its tools in the U.S. That's one reason to consider going imperial, plus most Americans know inches better than millimeters/centimeters.
Shane
For a track saw, I'd say it matters little. To make things simple, go imperial since you'll most likely be using this with standard sheet goods. It's unusual to need a high degree of precision of depth cutting on a track saw. It's usually the depth of the material plus 1/8" or 2-3mm. For those that go metric, we've already memorized 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" in mm.
Holmz, you have to take into account that this is the US. Center of the universe, where reason and critical thinking are not only in short supply but veiwed at the very least with suspicion and at worst distain. Festool is just playing to the audience.
ben_r_
Member
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2015
- Messages
- 1,330
Yea Im not suggesting anyone RE-buy anything, but it sounds like the OP was looking to buy a track saw, had decided to go the Festool route, and didnt already have one. I just bought all my Festool tools over the last few months and thus was able to pick up all Imperial versions for those that were offered. I think only my Domino DF 500 is not in Imperial. Or the Trion.Holmz said:
If you regularly do cuts that require accurate depth settings, then it might make a difference. If you always cut through, either cross cuts or ripping, then it really doesn't make any difference. I can't remember using the depth gauge for anything but getting the cut close to the thickness of the wood on crosscuts and rips. I learned quickly what comes close to 3/4", 1/2", 1", and 1 1/2" or just set it next to the wood and set the depth. (I learned quickly what is too deep as anyone can see if they look at my MFT top.)
Use the TS and HK saws does not always involve adjusting the cut for more than needed so that precision does not matter.
I was recently making some large fake beams out of 1x4 and luan underlayment for a local community theater group. The final cutting of the end of the beams involved compound angle cuts. I found it useful to cut only through the luan layer on some of the cuts. Using my HKC I had to somewhat guestimate the inch setting to get the 5 mm cut. The metric mechanism was handy in this case. If it had been an Imperial mechanism, I would have fine adjusted from 3/16.
I was recently making some large fake beams out of 1x4 and luan underlayment for a local community theater group. The final cutting of the end of the beams involved compound angle cuts. I found it useful to cut only through the luan layer on some of the cuts. Using my HKC I had to somewhat guestimate the inch setting to get the 5 mm cut. The metric mechanism was handy in this case. If it had been an Imperial mechanism, I would have fine adjusted from 3/16.
Holmz
Member
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2014
- Messages
- 4,001
ben_r_ said:
Well I overreacted a bit...
Basically for some decade or more the FT way was metric.
Now it is imperial in the US.
If the fellow likes mm then metric makes sence.
(I think that the saw is metric in its guts? So the imperial is only marks close to the mm.)
I usually put it at the edge of the board and then see what is 3-mm past it. And that matches up with wood +3-mm... But I like to double check, and it gives me a reason to count on the toes as most sheets are > 8-mm thick.
yetihunter
Member
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2013
- Messages
- 786
rst said:
Truer words have never been spoken.
The new TS scales are really just window dressing, the indents are still gauged in metric. So, one clic on the depth gauge still equals 1 mm (millimeter) of depth, not a 32nd or 64th of an inch.
[member=48572]Shane Holland[/member] - couldn't [member=63872]papester[/member] or [member=58556]Splou[/member] special order a metric version through a dealer if they wanted to wait and/or pay xtra ?
I use precise depth setting all the time and guys should note that most sheet goods you buy today are metric thicknesses. Hard to find actual 3/4" or 1/4" ply these days
[member=48572]Shane Holland[/member] - couldn't [member=63872]papester[/member] or [member=58556]Splou[/member] special order a metric version through a dealer if they wanted to wait and/or pay xtra ?
I use precise depth setting all the time and guys should note that most sheet goods you buy today are metric thicknesses. Hard to find actual 3/4" or 1/4" ply these days
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2007
- Messages
- 11,163
antss said:
The detents, as reported by Tyler at Festool USA, remain metric regardless of the scale.
As far as I know, Festool is now out of TS 55/75 saws that come with metric scales. So, I don't think we can get them anymore. We still have the TSC with metric and that's it. The other models, we've sold out of metric.
Festool USA will, with a fee, convert your imperial scale saw to metric.
Put the saw on top of the thing you want to cut, lower the blade until a tooth clears the bottom of it, and you're done. I have never once looked at any depth scale on any circular saw let alone cared what units it was marked out in. They're not accurate anyway.
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2007
- Messages
- 11,163
Nat X said:
FWIW, that's how I do it too. Quick n' easy.
Similar threads
