MFT/3 Slot on bottom of extrusion

[pingvinlakrits]

That adjustable foot looks the business but I am not sure it will help with your problem.

Thanks for the picture, I still think your main problem is a floor that does not cooperate fully.

I have linked a few MFT3's making composite kitchen worktop edging and that requires the surface to be dead flat for sawing and glue up. My workshop floor isn't level and when doing that kind of work I have to shim up the MFT's some in places and check it with a very long aluminium profile I have which I know is level (checked on the Felder X-Roll 3200 table for flatness - it is flat enough). Sometimes I simply use the Felder X-Roll table - but not for glue ups...

I have also made display shelves around nine/ten feet with great success with only shimming - but that works as long as you can leave the piece resting on the mated MFT tables and not knock it around much.

I would also welcome a working solution but I haven't found one myself. I have worked with very long extrusions forming a "bridge" across a few MFT tables and that allows for a long straight and level surface but it does not really help with using them holes...

We are thinking of setting up a new workshop and I am planning on making a composite table the full length of a Corian or Staron board which is 3650mm (11.975 feet) which will be a pure assembly/outfeed table.

I will keep an eye on this thread and should I get a eureka moment (but I doubt it) I will chime in again.  

 

[Mettes]

I would add it to all four legs myself. Cutting the legs to keep the original height, if that's desirable.

Don't forget to add/use a counter nut to keep the tables as stable as possible.

 

[NL-mikkla]

I think these are all great ideas but why not fix the problem instead of trying to find a workaround.
If the level of your workshop floor is so important why not level the floor with that liquid leveling concrete stuff?

I have used the MFT connecting rods Festool offers, I believe they are different sizing than the connecting rods for the tracks.

 

[Mortiser]

As far as connecting the tables, better yet, make your own two-piece connectors sized for the bottom slot, similar to these...http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/homemade-guide-rail-connectors-(not-your-typical-ones)/

McMaster Carr has the metric parts you need.

 

[DynaGlide]

So I ordered some parts from McMaster-Carr

60945K13 and 6111K179

The leg/tube ID is 1.3" or 33mm which of course no one makes (that I could find) so I bought 1.375" ID inserts and used a razor scraper to shave it down until I could get it to fit. I now have a lot more adjustability and more importantly. .it stays where I adjust it. I laid some 90" [member=63307]TrackTubesGuy[/member] profiles across the benches to show the gap, which is minimal. Before with the old foot I probably had 1/8" between the profile and the far right table whereas now there really isn't one. I might put these new feet on all the tables just because I like them so much. I don't think you could use them on the other non adjustable legs without cutting the legs.

Thank you [member=3587]Hans Mertens[/member] for the suggestion.

 

[greg mann]

I would suggest putting bolting some aluminum angle under the extrusion by using the slot to hold the nuts you tie into. The angle would be much more rigid than anything you could put into the slot. The floor would still need to be addressed as you would want pretty much equal weight on all legs but the angle would encourage alignment and you could more easily see where the legs were not touching. The angle is pretty cheap and two bolts in each table per piece, or four per length of angle would make it quite monolithic.

Edit: looking at the picture I think my suggestion is probably not practical as the festool corner is probably in the way.