MFT/3 Table worth it?

jobsworth said:
Colby said:
I'll be that guy...

I'm a hobbyist and frankly I have a tough time getting my MFT square. I  find myself reverting to the table saw more often than not because I trust it. I'm sure it's the user, but it's certainly not an out of the box tool....
To accurately set up your MFT You need a good square square . Though some folks use dogs, I use both.  I also have found (following the advice of some foggers here) that 2 (if you have them) angle stops (protractors) mounted to the MFTs fence makes it incredible accurate and keeps its accuracy even if you bump into it.

In support of getting a square you trust . . . The moment I got one that I know is perfectly square, my crosscuts on the MFT with the guide rail became essentially perfect 90 degree cuts and the fit of the pieces in my projects improved noticeably. A square you can trust is 90 degrees is essential, in my opinion, whether it's the plywood square that recently showed up on the FOG or a square from Woodpeckers. Search YouTube and the internet in general. There are a number of videos on squaring out there; some using dogs and some using a square. Starting out using dogs (to try to be sure the MFT holes were perfectly square to the fence), I now don't worry about that. I just make sure the fence is at a perfect 90 degress to the guide rail. I do check that every time I'm ready to make final crosscuts just to be sure. It's an extra step, but it just insurance that I didn't clumsily bump into the guide rail or fence while doing something else and it is now off a degree or so.
 
All this pretty much sums it up.
It is convienient and the dog holes provide clamping opportunities.

But after one adds in clamps, dogs, and squares, one could just buy a contractors saw for repetable cuts. It is not a great system if it needs constant squaring.

I am still unsure as to whether I like mine or not. A lot of the time I do, the rest of the time I just throw a sheet onto a folding card table, and a track onto the sheet.

A Paulk table seems more useful for larger stuff.
 
Is an MFT worth it? Short answer is yes.

There are lots of workbench options but if you are going the 'Full on Festool' route then get the MFT. It is like the "Dust Extractor" on it's own I think it is not as nice a vacuum as my $300 Miele Canister Vac but if you are going Full on Festool then buy the Vac. It all depends on what your going for. I own an MFT/3 and the MFT Kapex and I just bought a basic MFT/3 to complete the trifecta.

Squaring the MFT takes me 60 seconds using three Dogs (soon to be Qwas [In Festool Green :)]) using the method based on Half inch shy video on youtube.

What I like about the MFT's:
-Portable: you can bring them to the work area.
-Modular: connect them to form one long bench or put them either side of the MFT Kapex to make a miter station
-Size: Big enough to be useful but small enough to be easy to handle

What I don't like:
-Price: Yup...it's Festool. But you can find them used or buy them as a package and save 10% off of overpriced.
-Stability: They are wobbly. Even the stability bars don't help much. But this is the price you pay for portability.
-No wheels or castors: I now have almost everything on wheels or retractable castors in the basement shop & garage so I can move things around to clean, or reconfigure things as projects dictate. I love having a big well lit work area with mobile work tables and tools that can adapt to various projects. I wish the MFT came with an off the shelf option for putting it on wheels that could be retracted to give you a firm footing. After I get my new Basic MFT I am planing on coming up with a wheel system that helps address both the stability issues and the wheel/castor issues. I also want to create a way for my MFT Kapex to be able to raise up the 110mm to the 900mm height of the MFT/3 so that I can attach all 3 work tables (MFT/3, MFT/3, MFT Kapex) into one long bench (3183mm total) for super long cuts and other projects

 
schtumpig said:
... I also want to create a way for my MFT Kapex to be able to raise up the 110mm to the 900mm height of the MFT/3 so that I can attach all 3 work tables (MFT/3, MFT/3, MFT Kapex) into one long bench (3183mm total) for super long cuts and other projects

Why not hang the MFT-Kapex between your two MFT/3s? I know the table sizes don't match up, however, I've done something similar with the older style MFTs by joining one side with the Festool table connectors as normal, and the other side where the shorter table falls, uhm, short, with 90-degree brackets bolted in the MFT profiles' side T-slots -- I use some brackets from a Woodpecker's fence that work just right for this purpose. Anyway, this has worked for me on the older style tables, so it very well may work out for you too on your newer models.
 
Corwin said:
Why not hang the MFT-Kapex between your two MFT/3s? I know the table sizes don't match up, however, I've done something similar with the older style MFTs by joining one side with the Festool table connectors as normal, and the other side where the shorter table falls, uhm, short, with 90-degree brackets bolted in the MFT profiles' side T-slots -- I use some brackets from a Woodpecker's fence that work just right for this purpose. Anyway, this has worked for me on the older style tables, so it very well may work out for you too on your newer models.

I have thought about that exact Idea, thank you for the suggestion on where to get a good 90 bracket to fix the short side. I have been reading the old post More fun with 80/20...?? and was thinking about a base made out of 80/20 with either a retracting step-on caster mechanical over center brace made from 80/20. In the shop it has been nice to be able to just glide things around and then set them down on their stable base/feet when your working on them.Thanks again!
 
I have a MFT 600 in tandem with the MFT/3.  If I need an extra long table setup, I have a few 2x4's cut to the width of the smaller table.  I set the 2x's on edge and they are just the right height to match up with the /3 table.  For some projects, I need the extra space between table top and ceiling joists for assembly purposes.  Solution, just remove the 2x's gives me an extra 3-3/8 inches.  If I need more space, the smaller MFT is very easy to simply fold and set on the floor.  I also have the 1080 folded up in another part of the cellar and just lay it down for a large assembly table with plenty of head room.  If i need more head room for an assembly, I have plenty of headspace in my great outdoor shop.  ::)
Tinker
 
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