MFT/3 Top

Who cuts into the top of their MFT/3?

  • Yes - it's a tool and meant to be used

    Votes: 34 53.1%
  • No - this thing cost good money and I want to keep it as pristine as possible

    Votes: 7 10.9%
  • Only where the guide rail is for cross-cuts

    Votes: 23 35.9%

  • Total voters
    64

MrToolJunkie

Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2009
Messages
3,009
Just curious how many of you cut into the MFT/3 top for all manner of cutting or if you prefer to keep it as clean as possible.  I must say that I took the plunge today and decided to make cuts in the top and I must say, it was liberating...thanks.  After seeing Leon's and Kreg's MFT/3 tops, I figured what the heck...

Anyone else out there take the plunge or considering it?

Scot
 
I don't have an MFT/3 so can't cut into it :)  But have for the 1080.  Only the kerf for the cross-cut with the guide rail.  Since it gets set so accurately to the same place when i remove the parts of the guide rail, I have only one clean kerf that never moves (and I like that as I eyeball cuts to the kerf before dropping the rail).
 
I have two (2) MFT/3's that are my all purpose work benches and I like to keep the work surface smooth for assembly, etc.  When they are new the tops are so pretty that I just couldn't bring myself to cutting grooves in them so I always use a sacrificial piece (1/4"x24"x48" MDF) that I always throw on the top & make my cuts.  It now has so many kerfs it looks like a city map of Boston.

I don't have a strong aversion to doing as Paul did & putting one precisely located kerf that doesn't change but again as I say until I build myself a nice solid work bench I prefer to keep the tops smooth & flat.
 
I use sacrificial piece of ply. over my 2 MFTs. I try not to cut into them. Though accidents happen. I do have a single kerf cut for cross cutting. I also made a replaceable insert to fit into the one of the MFT that has the crosscut to replaceit when it gets to wide deep etc.

But I dont know if that was such a good idea. Im getting the urge to replace that one top and use the one with the insert for a router table/ kreg  jig table that will fit in between the 2 MFTs(I just bought the kit with the small blue plate).

modified to add:

I have been thinking about getting one of these.

http://www.benchmarktable.com/

Honnydo Kreg uses one and it seems like it will work great for just a cutting top.
 
greg mann said:
One yes and one no, and one yes and no. You guys are no help!  ;D ;D ;D

Really, even though I wouldn't call the MFT replacement tops "inexpensive" they aren't so dear that replacing the top every 4-5 years isn't out of the question.
 
Glad to see you saw the light and joined the club. Now you have to go one step further and join the "I sliced through my extrusion" club! (Usually membership of this club is involuntary!)

I figured that if I make enough cuts, I'll level the whole top by a few millimetres anyway! The cost of a new top is peanuts compared to the use I am getting out of it, and I haven't even reversed it yet.

To be fair, I have a couple of MFT 800s which I keep kerf-free but my solid-top workbench is a total mess by the end of the year- scratches, dried finish, oil stains etc. I level it once a year or so, but the few hours it takes is small beer compared to the time saved in just using it worry-free throughout the year.

Richard.
 
It is just a work surface.  Mine has cuts, extra holes, stain, blood, glue and all sorts of pencil scribbles on it.

3 years old and I still have not flipped it over yet.

 
You don't move the guide rail??? Why would Festool bother to make the rail brackets slide or put in the stops if they never expected the guide rail to be moved?  [big grin]

I hope the next thread is not on guys carefully centering their project on the MFT before glueing.  [big grin]

Seriously though, I can understand those with only 1 kerf cut. My home made table is that way. But if your table is a serious work table, it will have damage to the top from other things, so why not add a few more kerf cuts.

[attachthumb=#]

My MFT had only 3 or 4 cuts before I started sliding the guide rail. I agree with Scot, it felt liberating once I did it. Now that we have dogs for the holes, I find it easier to use a dog as a stop and slide the rail to the cut line. How do I keep the guide rail straight? I insert another pair of dogs in a column of holes nearest the guide rail and measure/balance the distance from the dogs to the rail with a caliper. You can use the lock on the caliper to make it easier.

My top has been used since 2007 and has already been flipped and rotated and getting close to replacement time. I've seen plenty of them worse than mine but I still use mine as an assembly area and like having some flat area to work with.  [smile]
 
My old MFT 800 top looks like yours, Steve, though with a few "through-kerfs" (I didn't always remember to adjust the depth).  I was new to woodworking with the MFT 800 and ATF55, and that was a leap of faith to cut into the table - I didn't think to look up any online videos.  My MFT/3 top is a bit cleaner, but has a few stray cuts.

Now that I have access to a Shopbot, I'm about to make some replacement tops for the MFT 800 and sell it.  Don't think anyone would want it with the current, ugly top.
 
Richard Leon said:
Now you have to go one step further and join the "I sliced through my extrusion" club! (Usually membership of this club is involuntary!)

Ya, I sliced (just like "budda")through mine too. I glued some mdf in the kerf, but it has a slight bow in it.
Still pisses me off when I look at it.
Tim
 
Im in the club too. As well as the cut through the fence club as well.

Its a small but exclusive club.
 
Tim Raleigh said:
Richard Leon said:
Now you have to go one step further and join the "I sliced through my extrusion" club! (Usually membership of this club is involuntary!)

Ya, I sliced (just like "budda")through mine too. I glued some mdf in the kerf, but it has a slight bow in it.
Still pisses me off when I look at it.
Tim

Yep -- I did that one too :).

Scot
 
sancho57 said:
Im in the club too. As well as the cut through the fence club as well.

Its a small but exclusive club.

Can be too exclusive...they let me become a member!
 
Ken Nagrod said:
I originally did this video for BuilderBob as a joke, but it seems to fit this thread so here's mine.

My MFT/3 top

Ken,

This video is hysterical...thanks for the chuckle. [thumbs up]  What were you domino'ing to get that nice line of slots in the MFT slot?  Were you placing them on 20mm centers to see how they would line up?  Were you using the plug cutter to make a dowl plug to fix one of your other drill holes? [poke] 

Scot
 
ScotF said:
Ken Nagrod said:
I originally did this video for BuilderBob as a joke, but it seems to fit this thread so here's mine.

My MFT/3 top

Ken,

This video is hysterical...thanks for the chuckle. [thumbs up]  What were you domino'ing to get that nice line of slots in the MFT slot?  Were you placing them on 20mm centers to see how they would line up?  Were you using the plug cutter to make a dowl plug to fix one of your other drill holes? [poke] 

Scot

Hi Scot.

Glad you enjoyed it.  Nothing more than stupid late night humor between Bob and myself a few weeks ago.  Those Domino slots were from me making through slots in the face of a piece of ply for cabinet construction (like a + sign).  The hole plug damage was from a recent job of making plugs for some floor saddles I made.  I first used a piece of oak that was too thin, so I went through into the MFT accidentally.  War scars.

I too was very careful about not putting a scratch in the top of the MFT when I first got it, because of the price, but then with the realization it's a work table and saw how others used theirs, decided to abandon all fears.  The only area I wish I hadn't done so much damage was the front long edge, doing long cuts with the TS 55, coming quite close to hitting the hex screws in the top.  The only thing I'm careful about is wiping up or sanding off glue that gets on the top so it doesn't transfer to work pieces and doesn't affect the flatness.
 
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