MFT/3 vs Miter Saw

[blanning]

When you got your MFT/3, did you totally abandon your miter saw?  Or do you still have it and use it for things you can't do with the MFT/3?

 

[erock]

I still have my miter saw for crown other case work.  Only because I don't want to mess around with changing the angle on the mft and the bevel on the ts55 and I don't want angles cuts on my mft top.  I use my mft for box building for cabinets along with the parallel guide.  That set up for me beats any table saw.  Plus, I use my miter saw for cutting 2x's for framing.  I do use my mft for cutting my stock for all my face frames for cabinets.  So for me, I use both mft/3 and miter saw it's a great combo to have in any shop.

plus my miter saw doesn't double as a great work station!

 

[LostInTheWood]

Im with erok on this one.  The miter is faster for running trim of all sorts.  Also good for gang cutting larger stock like 2x4s and decking.  Need to have them both.

 

[nickao]

You can't eliminate the miter without really sacrificing convenience. Either get a miter box or both. No way does an MFT replace the miter saw. Just like a guide rail saw does not eliminate the need for a table saw, IMHO.

 

[madera]

I have to agree as well. I could have never imagined how much I would actually use my mft untill I got one but it still doesn't replace the mitre saw for compound angles and mitres.  Pretty much anytime small width trim is required the mitre makes an apperance. But I do have to disagree with an above poster there is no way the parellel guides can compete with a table saw.

 

[blanning]

Thanks.  I actually have two miter saws.  I have a 12" PC chop type miter saw and a 12" Hitachi slider (it was too good a deal to pass up).  I had planned to sell one of them to help fund the festool purchases.  I guess I'll keep the slider.

 

[nickao]

Lots of people disagree on the table saw idea. I will never understand it.

All I can say is if you worked with me or anyway like me or made what I made you would be lost without a table saw. There are just certain functions where I can cut a hundred items while you are fumbling around and maybe could get ten done.

There are many threads on the table saw question already though.  

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I don't hardly use the mft/3 with the fence and guide rail.

It is more of a work table for me.  Plus, what would I do with my Kapex?

 

[Kodi Crescent]

Are you a hobbiest or a contractor?  I'm a hobbiest.  I got rid of my mitre saw and my table saw.  Space was the issue, and I wasn't making anything on a production schedule.  I haven't missed either, although I'd love to have both if I had the space.  I'll replace the mitre saw once I make space in the garage and save up, but it isn't vital that I have it now that I have the MFT.  Again, I'm not using my tools to make a living.

 

[blanning]

Are you a hobbiest or a contractor?  I'm a hobbiest.  I got rid of my mitre saw and my table saw.  Space was the issue, and I wasn't making anything on a production schedule.  I haven't missed either, although I'd love to have both if I had the space.  I'll replace the mitre saw once I make space in the garage and save up, but it isn't vital that I have it now that I have the MFT.  Again, I'm not using my tools to make a living.

I'm just a hobbiest.  But I'm not sure if I could live without a table saw.  I was thinking of downgrading to a bosch 4100 though.  I have plans to get a powermatic 14" bandsaw as well, so that could probably pick up the slack.

 

[tiralie]

I have 2 CMS and the MFT and would not want to cut any molding or narrow stock (< 12") on anything but a CMS. If I couldn't afford a good CMS I would buy a miter box. I have cut miters on the MFT but those were multiple cuts for short corner shelves and the time it took to set up the MFT saved time in the end.
You can't get away without a table saw and the 4100 is a good option (I have one for site work) if you want to save space, but it is seriously underpowered for cutting 4/4  thicker hardwood like maple and the table size is extremely frustrating for cross cutting or dadoes.
The new 4100 is a good portable saw (the riving knife is good) and very adjustable but I wouldn't buy it with the mobile stand. Ya, it holds the saw and you can wheel it around but if you using it in your shop and you trying to save space the folded up stand with the saw on it takes up as much footprint as the saw does. The saw is light enough although awkward (lighter than an MFT) to lift in and out of a truck.
For added stability, and additional table real estate the Rousseau stand it gives you more space to work, particularly cutting wider stock. The design (mechanics) of the Rousseau fence is a bit weak.  You can, as I have done also retro fit the Rousseau table with an after market fence like the Exaktor or Vega fences.
Tim

 

[blanning]

I have 2 CMS and the MFT and would not want to cut any molding or narrow stock (< 12") on anything but a CMS. If I couldn't afford a good CMS I would buy a miter box. I have cut miters on the MFT but those were multiple cuts for short corner shelves and the time it took to set up the MFT saved time in the end.
You can't get away without a table saw and the 4100 is a good option (I have one for site work) if you want to save space, but it is seriously underpowered for cutting 4/4  thicker hardwood like maple and the table size is extremely frustrating for cross cutting or dadoes.
The new 4100 is a good portable saw (the riving knife is good) and very adjustable but I wouldn't buy it with the mobile stand. Ya, it holds the saw and you can wheel it around but if you using it in your shop and you trying to save space the folded up stand with the saw on it takes up as much footprint as the saw does. The saw is light enough although awkward (lighter than an MFT) to lift in and out of a truck.
For added stability, and additional table real estate the Rousseau stand it gives you more space to work, particularly cutting wider stock. The design (mechanics) of the Rousseau fence is a bit weak.  You can, as I have done also retro fit the Rousseau table with an after market fence like the Exaktor or Vega fences.
Tim

The other plan I had for a table saw was to get something like this:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-1-3-4-HP-Contractor-Style-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife/G0713

remove the legs and put it on this:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Hydraulic-Mobile-Table-Cart-600-lbs-/H6240

Steel City has a similar saw with a worse fence.  But I figured I could put a bies fence on that one.  It would be twice the money over a bosch 4100.  But it would be a much better saw.

 

[harry_]

You can't eliminate the miter without really sacrificing convenience. Either get a miter box or both. No way does an MFT replace the miter saw. Just like a guide rail saw does not eliminate the need for a table saw, IMHO.

+1

 

[tiralie]

The other plan I had for a table saw was to get something like this:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-1-3-4-HP-Contractor-Style-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife/G0713

remove the legs and put it on this:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Hydraulic-Mobile-Table-Cart-600-lbs-/H6240

Steel City has a similar saw with a worse fence.  But I figured I could put a bies fence on that one.  It would be twice the money over a bosch 4100.  But it would be a much better saw.

Not sure how putting the saw on top of the mobile table cart saves space. Why wouldn't you just get the Grizzly mobile base? http://www.grizzly.com/products/Super-Heavy-Duty-Mobile-Base/G7315Z

The bies fence is nice.
Tim

 

[blanning]

Not sure how putting the saw on top of the mobile table cart saves space. Why wouldn't you just get the Grizzly mobile base? http://www.grizzly.com/products/Super-Heavy-Duty-Mobile-Base/G7315Z

The bies fence is nice.
Tim

There's a big back story for that.  The executive summary is that I think table saw tops are too low, traditional mobile bases have wheels that are too small, and I like the height adjustability.  It's not so much about saving space as it is about more mobility.

brian

 

[Deke]

Everyone has their own preferences, that's for sure and perfectly fine! ALl these tools can do endless things. I am a hobbiest, but my table saw is the place to be. Today I ripped drawer parts to width in seconds, threw on my sled and cross cut to length in minutes, but also cut some simple rabbets on other pieces - very quickly just using the blade and fence and with my trusty tenoning jig made a few tenons. However, when it came time to cut the dovetails, it was with the old Akeda jig clamped on the MFT with the OF 1400 hooked and Akeda hooked up to the CT 22. When I put that drawer together, it was also on the MFT. The TS 75 sat there all alone, unwanted and unneeded like the Charlie Brown of the shop.

Any way, on topic, I hate my Hitachi miter saw and I would not miss *IT* but I use the darn thing constantly. I yearn for a Kapex and it may happen some day, but not until I buy a cabinet saw first!  [big grin]

blanning,  if I can give advice, please please please don't downgrade to the Bosch. I upgraded from the Bosch to a Delta contractor saw and going back to it would be like cruel punishment. Don't get me wrong, as those portable saws go, it is the best, but unless you are building houses, why? - plus it is a toy compared to even a contractor saw. My friend has the Rouseau set up and it is nice, but expensive and he uses it on job sites and again, it is for dinky table saws (works best with the makita from what I remember) For all that money, you could buy your 17" Grizzly bandsaw (not the Powermatic 14").  [big grin]

 

[blanning]

For all that money, you could buy your 17" Grizzly bandsaw (not the Powermatic 14").  [big grin]

I thought about that.  And there's a good chance that I'll get grizzly's top of the line 14" saw instead of the powermatic.  It looks like it would be about $200 cheaper.  This is turning into an expensive proposition.  And I'm looking for ways to cut costs.  I think for what I do, a high end 14" would be plenty.  And besides, I'd rather have a high end 14" saw than a low end 17" saw.

 

[TJ Cornish]

For all that money, you could buy your 17" Grizzly bandsaw (not the Powermatic 14").  [big grin]

  This is turning into an expensive proposition.

I was making the squaring jig for my new MFT/3 from Jerry Work's manual this week. I figured out that I used approximately $16,000 worth of tools to make what amounts to a nice board with two holes in it. Woodworking - especially if the word "Festool" is involved, is expensive.  [scared]

To be fair, most of the $16,000 worth of tools were not Festool in this case.

 

[Corwin]

I was making the squaring jig for my new MFT/3 from Jerry Work's manual this week. I figured out that I used approximately $16,000 worth of tools to make what amounts to a nice board with two holes in it. Woodworking - especially if the word "Festool" is involved, is expensive.  [scared]

To be fair, most of the $16,000 worth of tools were not Festool in this case.

Not to worry.  It shouldn't be too hard to spend some more on Festools and before you now it $16,000 will be a distant memory.    [wink]

 

[TJ Cornish]

I was making the squaring jig for my new MFT/3 from Jerry Work's manual this week. I figured out that I used approximately $16,000 worth of tools to make what amounts to a nice board with two holes in it. Woodworking - especially if the word "Festool" is involved, is expensive.  [scared]

To be fair, most of the $16,000 worth of tools were not Festool in this case.

Not to worry.  It shouldn't be too hard to spend some more on Festools and before you now it $16,000 will be a distant memory.    [wink]

Oh, I'm long past $16,000 - just couldn't figure out a way to use any more of them on this particular project.  [big grin]