CSC SYS 50 as a replacement for a cabinet saw?

[smorgasbord]

And to bring this back to tape measure, here's a closeup from Home Depot's site of the popular FatMax tape (recently recommended by Spencer Lewis):


What's obvious just from the shape of the tick marks is that you're supposed to read from the middle. The edges of the tick marks are tapered, getting narrower on both sides as they approach the ruler's edge. At their thickest, the tick marks themselves are about 0.022" wide (about 0.57mm), so as I've been saying, we're talking a quite a difference as compared to metal rules at 0.006" wide.

If one were to try to read to the left edge of the tick marks, one would have to decide to read at the very edge of the tick mark, as that left edge is a varying distance from the metal hook at the left. If this were intended, then the tick marks would themselves be straight on the left edge. The right edge then could be straight or could be tapered. But, tapering both edges is clear proof that the design intent is for the middle of the tick mark.

Now, maybe someone wants to argue that FastCap or some other tape measure brand has a different design intent than Stanley.

 

[smorgasbord]

Someone posted about using a FastCap tape measure above, so I grabbed a CU of that:


Measuring from the photo I get the tick marks are about 0.02" wide. Which is about the same as the widest part of the FatMax tape, but the FatMax has those tapered ticks which may provide more accuracy in everyday use. "Aim small, miss small"

Since I'm a fan of Tajima tape measures, here's one under enlargement:


I measured the tick marks at about 0.35mm wide (0.014"), so maybe a small bit narrower than the FastCap, but still wider than the narrowest part of the FatMax.

 

[smorgasbord]

OK, I'm into beating dead horses, and came across Lixer Tape Measure Calibration tools (link in name).

These are $500+ tools, with NIST Traceable Certification, and a claimed Accuracy +/-.001".

Here's the photo they show for calibration at 10cm (this is the push calibration, the pull calibration is for the edge 5mm to the right):

Do you think they're showing us a tape that under-measures against the standard, as the left edge of the 10cm mark is clearly to the left of the milled edge? Doesn't it seem quite a bit more likely they're showing a tape that basically passes, with the milled edge crossing the middle of the 10cm tick mark?

 

[lshj]

I have sold my Sawstop contractor table saw and bought the SYS 50 small table saw, mainly because of space saving. But I also have a track saw and band saw. I only use table saw to cut small pieces. For larger board I just use track saw. And for most of the wood cutting, I am using band saw much more often than table saw. So far I am very happy with my decision. I left a 3/4" resaw king blade on my bandsaw and use it for most of the straight cutting. Although the cut is not as smooth as the table saw, but actually very close thanks for the resaw king blade, and most time is acceptable for what I need. In case that I do need super smooth cutting edge, I just use hand plane to smooth it, or occasionally use the jointer to smooth the edge, but the hand plane is more handy and convenient.