MFT/3 with Incra Fence and Shop Stop

stphnlwlsh

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Just got my Parf Dogs from Lee Valley and finally got my incra fence and 1080 rail square. Made an alignment block out of some scrap red oak for both the 1080 rail and the calibration of the Incra fence. Just thought I'd share. I've been really happy with the setup so far.

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stphnlwlsh said:
Just got my Parf Dogs from Lee Valley and finally got my incra fence and 1080 rail square. Made an alignment block out of some scrap red oak for both the 1080 rail and the calibration of the Incra fence. Just thought I'd share. I've been really happy with the setup so far.

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Looks like a smart setup to me! These are the incra tracks with the 1mm teeth right? Could you post a close up of the shop stop in action? I'm particularly curious how easy/accurate you can read the distance on the scales!
 
This is the Best setup but it will be nicier with the incra flipstop  [laughing]
 
Cellule said:
This is the Best setup but it will be nicier with the incra flipstop  [laughing]

I have been trying something similar with the Incra miter 3000 HD on my DIY MFT.  I have miter channels in the table top so I can mount the miter gauge.  The problem with both Incra fences is that they cannot go -under- the Festool track without limiting the minimum thickness of the material to cut.  Having the fence going under the track is important for supporting the material when it is short.  Currently I am toying with using a Woodpecker supertrack, but I then lose the incremental stops.  The other option may be to mount another fence piece on the bottom of the Incra track, and that and only that piece extends to go below the track.
 
dutchie said:
Looks like a smart setup to me! These are the incra tracks with the 1mm teeth right? Could you post a close up of the shop stop in action? I'm particularly curious how easy/accurate you can read the distance on the scales!

I'll try to get one tonight.  It takes some getting used to because the 1mm teeth are pretty darn small.  I had to get the metric conversion kit also, but it's really easy to put together.

amt said:
Cellule said:
This is the Best setup but it will be nicier with the incra flipstop  [laughing]

I have been trying something similar with the Incra miter 3000 HD on my DIY MFT.  I have miter channels in the table top so I can mount the miter gauge.  The problem with both Incra fences is that they cannot go -under- the Festool track without limiting the minimum thickness of the material to cut.  Having the fence going under the track is important for supporting the material when it is short.  Currently I am toying with using a Woodpecker supertrack, but I then lose the incremental stops.  The other option may be to mount another fence piece on the bottom of the Incra track, and that and only that piece extends to go below the track.

True.  I kept my MFT/3 fence for this very purpose.  I haven't really needed to cut anything less than 21 cm yet, but what I would probably do is go with another shorter Incra fence on the offcut side a la Half-Inch Shy's offcut fence setup
 
Incra has a telescoping version of this fence. The arm of that telescope is only .5" tall. You'd have to add a block to the front of it but it could work pretty slick
 
I have the telescoping fence, but I was not happy with the straightness of it.  My telescoping fence bows down a bit, which causes it to lift the whole fence when telescoped out.  Kind of disappointed in the telescoping part...  I may just try to use a 1/4" thick piece of steel attached to the bottom of the Incra flip fence.
 
I had the same issue. I checked the straightness of the extrusion and it was within close tolerence. So I added another bolt hole to reinforce the stability. Worked well. The mft surface in this case should also ensure flatness or at least help
To orientate the telescope. I do agree that there are limitations to the accuracy of the telescope no matter what
 
Just got my Parf Dogs from Lee Valley and finally got my incra fence and 1080 rail square. Made an alignment block out of some scrap red oak for both the 1080 rail and the calibration of the Incra fence. Just thought I'd share. I've been really happy with the setup so far.

Sorry, but why's the alignment block needed? After using this setup for a bit, have you made any changes/improvements to it?  Still recommend?
 
stphnlwlsh said:
Just got my Parf Dogs from Lee Valley and finally got my incra fence and 1080 rail square. Made an alignment block out of some scrap red oak for both the 1080 rail and the calibration of the Incra fence. Just thought I'd share. I've been really happy with the setup so far.

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[member=31566]stphnlwlsh[/member] I know this is an old post but by any chance do you remember how thick your mft3 alignment piece was or is?
 
Sorry, but why's the alignment block needed? After using this setup for a bit, have you made any changes/improvements to it?  Still recommend?

I believe it is to offset the rail so you aren't cutting through the dog holes.
 
box185 said:
amt said:
The problem with both Incra fences is that they cannot go -under- the Festool track without limiting the minimum thickness of the material to cut.  Having the fence going under the track is important for supporting the material when it is short.

I do realize this is an old thread . . .

I use the Incra Fence attached directly to the MFT/3 top, but installed a 3/16 inch aluminum flat bar under the Incra Fence that also sits proud of the front face of Incra Fence. The flat bar extends under the Festool Rail to within 5 mm of the kerf, providing support for material under the fence. The flat bar is the real fence, being aligned to bench dogs in the same way as shown in the OP's image. The Incra Fence only provides the repeatable positioning with the stop. I would like to integrate Incra positioning into an extrusion other than the Incra Fence, but I have not found a suitable solution.

[member=67413]box185[/member] Do you have a picture by any chance? Also are you using the fence festool provided or did you buy one online?
 
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