Hi all, Can I anyone help identify whats going wrong here. I've recently got the mft/3 table setup with my ts55 and i'm having some issues m making a 45 deg bevel on some 15mm plywood. As you can see fromt he pictures i'm getting some burning towards the end of the cut but also right at the end it chips in a mm or so, hopefully the pics explain it better. Normal cuts seem to be fine, no burning either it's just when i'm cutting at a 45 deg angle. I'm clamping the piece down and putting pressue on the baseplate, it does seem to be harder to push through though and i'm wondering it's related. My festool extactor probably needs a bag change as the suction is't as it should be, could that be an issue?
MFT/3 with the TS55 problem with bevel cuts
- Thread starter Greendave
- Start date
Which blade are you using? I find with ply I get less burning with the 20 tooth universal blade, especially at 45 degrees.
I've had some other curious problems which I've attributed to stopping cutting as soon as the blade has cut through the timber, rather than passing the back half of the blade past the wood too. It's as if the saw is running squint on the rail, but if it I can't measure it! Of course I can only measure when the saw isn't running and there's no pressure pushing it forwards.
I look forward to hearing other folks suggestions!
Andrew
I've had some other curious problems which I've attributed to stopping cutting as soon as the blade has cut through the timber, rather than passing the back half of the blade past the wood too. It's as if the saw is running squint on the rail, but if it I can't measure it! Of course I can only measure when the saw isn't running and there's no pressure pushing it forwards.
I look forward to hearing other folks suggestions!
Andrew
Thanks Andrew, it's the standard 48t blade I'm using. The issues you mention do sound similar to what's happening with me, maybe I'm not pushing the saw through far enough I'll try that. Although the slight burning that's occurring towards the end of the cut makes me think something else is happening before that point.
Ok so I've tried lots of tests this morning, 90 Reg cuts are fine, no burning at all. I reset up everything making sure it's all square and then ran a 45 degree cut, same problem, doesn't seem that I'm twisting my wrist at the end although it is a little awkward pushing the saw while holding down the base plate. Tried making two cuts at different depths, same problem.
I decided to have a look at the blade, seems a little dirty so do you think this may be an issue, would it be more apparent ok an angled cut?
I decided to have a look at the blade, seems a little dirty so do you think this may be an issue, would it be more apparent ok an angled cut?
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Bohdan
Member
The burn could be being caused by you cutting slower because of the 45° cut. By slowing down as you approach the end you would be causing more burn.
It also appears that the rail is dipping down as you start to go past the end of the ply.
This causes the rail to bend down and the back of the saw that is still on the ply to lift and leave that nick at the end.
It also appears that the rail is dipping down as you start to go past the end of the ply.
This causes the rail to bend down and the back of the saw that is still on the ply to lift and leave that nick at the end.
Bohdan
Member
How is the rail supported?
tjbnwi said:
I've just put a sacrificial piece in front of the main piece and behind the fence (did you mean between the back of the main and front of fence?) but this didnt make much difference. I don't really want to have to put a sacrificial piece behind the main piece (in front of the fence) everytime i make a cut.
tjbnwi
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Greendave said:
Clamp a piece between the fence ad the main piece. Make art long and cut through it on your first cut.
Only need it for the bevel rips.
On my cross cut MFT, I bolted the rail in place and cut through the aluminum. By having the fence on both sides of the kerf it supports both the piece under the rail and the drop off. (the left and right fences are being used as material stops. This was an unusual cut/set up)
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Holmz
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It is possible that the saw is pivoting on an axis that is not in-line with the track...
If you have a square (90-degree) cut, then crank it over to 45, and with the saw off and unplugged you could measure whether the blade is the same distance from the front as it is from the back. Probably measure it with feeler gauges???
If you have a square (90-degree) cut, then crank it over to 45, and with the saw off and unplugged you could measure whether the blade is the same distance from the front as it is from the back. Probably measure it with feeler gauges???
If you intend to make regular use of the bevel feature, one accessory that can help out in combination with the rails is the Parallel Guide:
[attachimg=1]
It can be flipped over and used on the side of the saw to prevent the tipping whereas on one side it is the same thickness as the rail. It can also help to provide a more outward "handle" versus pressure on the base. This may help your situation but I primarily mention it because it is an often overlooked benefit for this accessory.
Peter
[attachimg=1]
It can be flipped over and used on the side of the saw to prevent the tipping whereas on one side it is the same thickness as the rail. It can also help to provide a more outward "handle" versus pressure on the base. This may help your situation but I primarily mention it because it is an often overlooked benefit for this accessory.
Peter
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Holmz said:
This seems like it could possible be the issue but i'm not clear on your method of checking it sorry. I've just tried a couple of cuts with sacrificial piece behind it and that fixed the snipe at the end but still a little burning but not as much as before. Turned the speed down to 5 and it's a lot better but you can still see that the cut isn't smooth like the blade is pulling away while cutting, like chatter along the cut. Sorry bad description I know!
Holmz
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Basically you know it cuts straight when at 90 degrees.
If you crank it over and the backend is closer than the front, then it would be crabbing down the track.
You could probably make a square cut and scootch the board over a 1/16" and then cut forward a couple of inches... Then go to the front side and do a slow climb cut backwards a couple of inches, and see if the amount removed was identical.
If it was crabbing it will probably be < 0.010".
I would think that one could induce some twist in it by accident or on purpose, depending on how they tighten it all down??
If it is repeatable then it gets easier to diagnose it.
If you crank it over and the backend is closer than the front, then it would be crabbing down the track.
You could probably make a square cut and scootch the board over a 1/16" and then cut forward a couple of inches... Then go to the front side and do a slow climb cut backwards a couple of inches, and see if the amount removed was identical.
If it was crabbing it will probably be < 0.010".
I would think that one could induce some twist in it by accident or on purpose, depending on how they tighten it all down??
If it is repeatable then it gets easier to diagnose it.
Holmz said:
Just done a 90deg cut and I've noticed that although it's square after the cut there is a fraction of the piece showing towards the end of the cut an d it at the beginning. It's like it's not competely in line with the rail splinter guard.
Bohdan
Member
When I asked about how the rail is supported I was thinking of the length of rail that is past the fence. If the rail is not held at exactly the same height as the material being cut the saw will dive and the back of the blade will rise slightly. This would only be an issue with cuts that are not at 90º.
