MFT/3 with the TS55 problem with bevel cuts
- Thread starter Greendave
- Start date
Michael Kellough
Member
This is probably a less than perfect toe adjustment issue. At ninety degrees in thin stock (19mm or less) slight toe misalignment is tolerable but it is amplified when the blade is at 45*.
Also, once you burn the wood it will happen again even if the original problem is corrected.
The blade needs to be cleaned. The built-up crud thickens the teeth and is way less slippery than carbide.
Also, once you burn the wood it will happen again even if the original problem is corrected.
The blade needs to be cleaned. The built-up crud thickens the teeth and is way less slippery than carbide.
tjbnwi said:
Funny you should say this as Bob from Festool just called me to go through a few things. He thinks it may be related to the bevel knobs, said to tighten the rear one first and while holding the weight of the motor tighten the other one. I'll try this tomorrow, thanks
Michael Kellough
Member
Yes, clean the blade. Once coated with char it will burn again given the slightest chance.
While it's soaking read through these threads. Ignore the ones covering the ATF saws as the TS saws are different. In particular, look for Rick's TS manual.
Here's a tip, there is a ton of good info in this forum but the house search engine sucks. Just go to google and type in what you want to search for and add "Festool owners" to the end to quickly find a lot of relevant stuff.
While it's soaking read through these threads. Ignore the ones covering the ATF saws as the TS saws are different. In particular, look for Rick's TS manual.
Here's a tip, there is a ton of good info in this forum but the house search engine sucks. Just go to google and type in what you want to search for and add "Festool owners" to the end to quickly find a lot of relevant stuff.
ear3
Member
I had this exact same problem back before I replaced my corded 55 with the TSC. It was a knob adjustment issue for me, compounded by the fact that there is no positive stop at 45 at the front of the saw.
Greendave said:
I found it helpful to have the saw sitting on the flat side with the base plate (being the lighter part of the assembly) free in the air, tightening the rear knob first and then without any pressure or pull on the plate the front one - instead of doing the angle adjustment with the saw sitting on the base plate where saw head pulls outwards which most likely leads to a more-or-less slight twist or deflection after or while tightening.
Also easier this way to dial in the angle you want since the base plate is way lighter than the motor - so you have less mass to move and it won't pull away (courtesy of gravity) that much from where you want it to be, compared to the heavy part with the motor and all.
Also easier this way to dial in the angle you want since the base plate is way lighter than the motor - so you have less mass to move and it won't pull away (courtesy of gravity) that much from where you want it to be, compared to the heavy part with the motor and all.
Michael Kellough
Member
Gregor said:
Agree.
Gregor said:
Great tip and this helped but didn't solve the issue.
Cleaned the blade, still no better.
Checked blade alignment (toe in/toe out) the blade was tight against the fresh cut wood at the front and back of the blade. Realigned so that a 0.15 feel gauge could fit between the back of the blade and wood and the front was tight. Seems a lot better now, cuts easier, no burning but I still get breakout and a small 'snipe' at the end of the cut. It's now going back to Festool for a checkup. Thanks for all your help everyone!
Acrobat
Member
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2008
- Messages
- 471
GreenDave,
I had this exact same problem. Even the local festool rep didn't know why it was doing it. I always got a burn 1/2- 3/4 along a cut and a chip on the end just like your pics, even worse tho'.
I finally cured it by adjusting the base plate of the TS55 saw itself. Seemed mine had the saw body not truely parallel.
Undo the 4 screws on the underside of the base plate just slightly, and adjust it in or out so both front and back are in alignment. Tighten and test. I had to do this a few times to figure out if I needed it to go in or out at the front, but after a few test cuts it's finally fixed. Mine was about 1.5-2mm off and so must have been angling the blade into the rubber strip enough to cause the burning and the end tearout chip. Sometimes the TS55r made an effort to cut with a real growl, now it glides and cuts easily and no chipout at the ends and isn't as noisy- or at least thats what it seems like to me.
Hope this helps you.
I had this exact same problem. Even the local festool rep didn't know why it was doing it. I always got a burn 1/2- 3/4 along a cut and a chip on the end just like your pics, even worse tho'.
I finally cured it by adjusting the base plate of the TS55 saw itself. Seemed mine had the saw body not truely parallel.
Undo the 4 screws on the underside of the base plate just slightly, and adjust it in or out so both front and back are in alignment. Tighten and test. I had to do this a few times to figure out if I needed it to go in or out at the front, but after a few test cuts it's finally fixed. Mine was about 1.5-2mm off and so must have been angling the blade into the rubber strip enough to cause the burning and the end tearout chip. Sometimes the TS55r made an effort to cut with a real growl, now it glides and cuts easily and no chipout at the ends and isn't as noisy- or at least thats what it seems like to me.
Hope this helps you.
Acrobat said:
Thanks, sounds like exactly the same problem. Did you setup the blade alignment as mentioned in this manualhttp://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/Festool-TS55REQ-Supplemental-Manual.pdf i.e; feeler gauge between the back end of the blade and workpiece and the front end tight to the workpiece? Also, are you using the standard blade?
Festool have come back to me to say they've test it and cannot see an issue which is worrying. Is it worth getting a new splinter guard for the rail now that the blade is aligned correctly?
Michael Kellough
Member
Holmz said:
Toe adjustment can be difficult, especially if the screws through the plastic mounting blocks have been too tight for so long that they make "seats" that have to be overcome to make fine adjustments.
Problem resolved now, the guy from Festool that came out to see me was excellent. Went through lots of different cutting methods before trying the 28 tooth Universal blade, cuts like a knife through butter, no burning and no chip out at the end. So it was probably a combination of the toe in alignment issue and the blade. Now cutting perfect mitres in 15mm plywood, happy 
