MFT/bessey clamp cheap & simple

[bror]

I was looking for a simple way to use my self adjusting bessey on MFT and systand.

I'm not fond of bolting things down on the underside of the MFT/systand.

I thought it might be enough when it just hooks under the top.

So I just put these parts together and tested it:

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materials: roughly 52 cents

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this is the complete set

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adjusting or tightening, from above

It looks like part of the surface of the bolt head is enough for serious clamping.

Any way: it is simple, it's cheap, and it is surprisingly effective and practical.

just looking for feedback, thanks

rogier

 

[Alli]

Ingenious!

I had been using the festool quick clamps to hold the base from underneath which is a bit of a fiddle if your moving the clamps around the table. Your solution looks so quick and easy, I hope you don't mind that I'm going to pinch your idea ;D Thanks for sharing.
Cheers David

 

[Corwin]

Fantastic!  [thumbs up]

 

[GRegghead]

Brilliant!
Why are simple solutions never obvious (to me anyways)? I'm totally doing this, thanks for sharing.

 

[Scott in Bend Oregon]

I used Bror's concept on a Kreg clamp by using a 5/16-18 x 1 1/4" carriage bolt.  It was screwed into the exising threaded hole in the clamp base.  It seemed to work fine.  However, I have some concern with the bolt gouging the underside of the MFT top.  Probably would work better if the square neck was machined or filed round to the diameter of bolt shank.

 

[Bob Gerritsen]

Very nice indeed! Will surely be making a couple myself, thanks a bunch for sharing!!

 

[gms002]

I used Bror's concept on a Kreg clamp by using a 5/16-18 x 1 1/4" carriage bolt.  It was screwed into the exising threaded hole in the clamp base.  It seemed to wotk fine.  However, I have some concern with the bolt gouging the underside of the MFT top.  Probably would work better if the square neck was machined or filed round to the diameter of bolt shank.

You can always use a bolt with a hex head - flat underneath, or a L-shaped threaded rod, no head at all.

The concept is very good.

 

[Scott in Bend Oregon]

I used Bror's concept on a Kreg clamp by using a 5/16-18 x 1 1/4" carriage bolt.  It was screwed into the exising threaded hole in the clamp base.  It seemed to wotk fine.  However, I have some concern with the bolt gouging the underside of the MFT top.  Probably would work better if the square neck was machined or filed round to the diameter of bolt shank.

You can always use a bolt with a hex head - flat underneath, or a L-shaped threaded rod, no head at all.

The concept is very good.

Later today, I'm going to try a T-bolt instead.  That should give more of a hook under the table.  I might have to grind 2 or 3mm off the "t" in order to clear the 20mm MFT hole.

http://www.rockler.com/t-slot-bolts-5-16-18-thread-t-slot-bolts

 

[Slappy]

they make a bolt that is used in building truck trailers that has a round flat head that is thin as a washer & about the size of quarter .  you see the heads on any Truck trailer as they are the series of silver dots that run all the way down the sides . they are used to attach the tiedown rails on the inside surface  they come in 1/4-20 diameter IIRC they are 1 1/4" long . You can get them at a any place that sells truck trailer supplies . You can easily place them in a drill chuck & spin them down to size with sand paper

 

[rmwarren]

McMaster has pan head machine screws with an oversize head that is nearly 3/4":

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Simple solution, I was fiddling with a similar idea but much more complicated.

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Your idea is much better.

RMW

 

[Scott in Bend Oregon]

Here is the "t" bolt version on a old-style Kreg clamp.  I cut down a 5/16-18 x 1 1/2 bolt to about 1 1/4".  The head diameter also needs to be trimmed a small amount to clear the MFT hole.  It gives you about a 1/4" double hook under the table.

I like the truss head screw idea, too.

 

[bror]

thanks for the support guys. Nice to see that the concept gets you going. I'm looking forward to all of your improvements.

there's nothing more complex than simplicity.

 

[promark747]

Great idea bror, thanks.  Here is my version, with a T-bolt cut to size and a washer that just barely slips through the MFT hole.  One question...do you think that the bolt should be clamped toward the front or rear of the hole, or does it not make any difference as far as minimizing the stress on the hole?

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[Slappy]

the added surface area of the washer is a Good Thing , More IS Better  [eek]
the front would be closer to the clamping item so that would better as further away creates more of % of leverage stress on the holes I would guess ?

 

[Bhend18]

I use these:  [big grin]
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=70681&cat=1,43838,43845

 

[Slappy]

I use these:  [big grin]
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=70681&cat=1,43838,43845

the idea is that he's using a inexpensive alternative to those , as that set up is $$ pricey

 

[Jimmy FineCut]

Brilliant simple idea.

Going to go buy some of these clamps Monday morning and use this setup.

Thanks!

 

[bror]

I wonder, did some of you guys make a similar jig?
Did you come across some simple ways to improve it on the way?

 

[Scott in Bend Oregon]

Update on another low cost solution...$3 worth of 5/16" thumbscrews from McMaster-Carr.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#90200a586/=qi7o7n

I cut them down to about 1 3/8" long and they require a dab of thread-lock to stay put.  The head diameter is ~3/4" (19mm) and a perfect easy slip fit into the 20mm holes.

Using these is a one-handed clamping operation and much easier to catch an edge than the T-bolt I tried earlier.