Michael Kellough
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- Jan 23, 2007
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- 7,096
[member=2242]tallgrass[/member] “RUWI components”. Which ones and where do you get them?
MFT Hole Jigs
- Thread starter Grev
- Start date
They maintain their accuracy. I cut the entire sheet indexed to the lower right. You could choose differently.As long as you choose. I then cut the panels. If I need to verify I use the jig to lock it down. That is the benefit of this jig.
These are a sample of the RUWI things I use.The rail has a sacrificial friction surface. So you use them to cut on saving the table top. I use four of them and place my cut so that both sides of the cut are supported. These also provide friction for things like sanding. They work beautifully.
These are a sample of the RUWI things I use.The rail has a sacrificial friction surface. So you use them to cut on saving the table top. I use four of them and place my cut so that both sides of the cut are supported. These also provide friction for things like sanding. They work beautifully.
Attachments
tallgrass said:
I'm familiar with the RUWI products and actually emailed them several months ago, trying to find a source for the rail connectors. I was informed to contact a Felder Rep. I actually was about to purchase a FAT300, so asked my Rep. about them and never did get an answer. If you ([member=2242]tallgrass[/member]) have a source for them and don't mind sharing it .. I would appreciate it. Can PM if you want. Thanks.
Those RUWI parts are not proprietary.
Brackets are 80/20https://www.ebay.com/itm/80-20-Inc-...le-Clamp-Block-40-Series-14117-N/371952381973
Veriatas bench anchors:http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=59754&cat=1,41637
Then standard extrusions and bike cam locks.
I like o-rings on Veritas anchors.
Brackets are 80/20https://www.ebay.com/itm/80-20-Inc-...le-Clamp-Block-40-Series-14117-N/371952381973
Veriatas bench anchors:http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=59754&cat=1,41637
Then standard extrusions and bike cam locks.
I like o-rings on Veritas anchors.
not sure they have the adjustable cam locks. The split dog is a regular solution. It is the adjustable cam lock and slat table that I believe is proprietary. I will check the 80/20 catalog to see if they are lurking in there.
I can give you my contact. He and his company are top drawer and were very helpful.
Tobias Bort
shop@bort-herkert.de
Tell him Todd Cumberland from S. California sent you. He was fantastic. Shop their web page at your wallets own risk.
I can give you my contact. He and his company are top drawer and were very helpful.
Tobias Bort
shop@bort-herkert.de
Tell him Todd Cumberland from S. California sent you. He was fantastic. Shop their web page at your wallets own risk.
https://ruwi.de/products/ [big grin] just if you want to peruse. 
[member=15585]Svar[/member] here's the cam locks. [wink]
https://www.jwwinco.com/en-us/products/quick-finder?q=cam
Ron
https://www.jwwinco.com/en-us/products/quick-finder?q=cam
Ron
gunnyr
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- Nov 13, 2014
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- 387
I'm a little late to this thread. I also have the UJK Parf Guide. Very simple to use and VERY accurate. IMHO is a much more trustworthy method than others as it relies on simple, basic geometry to achieve its accuracy. It is also very flexible.
I missed [member=49013]clark_fork[/member] comments earlier but urge you to read his review. Very well done! If his thoughts and experience aren't sufficiently convincing of the merits of the UJK Parf Guide I can only urge you watch Peter's excellent YouTube videos again. I have a Paulk Compact Bench and [member=10829]Timtool[/member] MFTC both made with the UJK Parf Guide. I have produce excellent trim and furniture projects using both of them as cut stations. I also have 2 MFT's. After reading Clark's comments I will soon be making a simple cut top to use when I don't want/need to set up my any of the other tables.
I missed [member=49013]clark_fork[/member] comments earlier but urge you to read his review. Very well done! If his thoughts and experience aren't sufficiently convincing of the merits of the UJK Parf Guide I can only urge you watch Peter's excellent YouTube videos again. I have a Paulk Compact Bench and [member=10829]Timtool[/member] MFTC both made with the UJK Parf Guide. I have produce excellent trim and furniture projects using both of them as cut stations. I also have 2 MFT's. After reading Clark's comments I will soon be making a simple cut top to use when I don't want/need to set up my any of the other tables.
clark_fork said:
Cheese
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- Jan 16, 2015
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FWIW...here are a couple shots of the results of the Woodpeckers jig.
Here's what a hole can look like if you don't carefully evaluate every hole before you move the jig to move on. There's a small blip at 9:00 and also at 1:00. That tells me that there's still extra material within that area. Maybe only .005"-.007" but that's enough to prevent a dog from entering the hole. This hole has already been "cleaned up" by me running the router around the jig/guide 3-4 times.
[attachimg=1]
These photos are indicators of how accurately the Woodpeckers jig can place the holes:
The first photo is the center of the furthest LH hole. The center is 110mm.
The second photo is the furthest RH hole. The center is 1167mm, although that may be tough to see.
That means the center to center distance is only off by 1mm over that distance. For imperial users, the hole to hole distance was off by .039" over a distance of 41.5". That's pretty impressive. [big grin]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
Here's what a hole can look like if you don't carefully evaluate every hole before you move the jig to move on. There's a small blip at 9:00 and also at 1:00. That tells me that there's still extra material within that area. Maybe only .005"-.007" but that's enough to prevent a dog from entering the hole. This hole has already been "cleaned up" by me running the router around the jig/guide 3-4 times.
[attachimg=1]
These photos are indicators of how accurately the Woodpeckers jig can place the holes:
The first photo is the center of the furthest LH hole. The center is 110mm.
The second photo is the furthest RH hole. The center is 1167mm, although that may be tough to see.
That means the center to center distance is only off by 1mm over that distance. For imperial users, the hole to hole distance was off by .039" over a distance of 41.5". That's pretty impressive. [big grin]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
Attachments
looks good. If you want to measure holes try putting dowels in them or use pins. Makes it easier than trying to catch the edge with a ruler. Good job by the way.
Those are not the same as the adjustable cam locks that RUWI uses. They are not bad but are different. I do not think those are hardened steel and work in the same way. I have those for my 80/20 fixtures and work wonderful for that. The RUWI ones come from the world of metal working. Different beasts. They survive on my cnc milling machines. The other ones for my 80/20 would not.
Those are not the same as the adjustable cam locks that RUWI uses. They are not bad but are different. I do not think those are hardened steel and work in the same way. I have those for my 80/20 fixtures and work wonderful for that. The RUWI ones come from the world of metal working. Different beasts. They survive on my cnc milling machines. The other ones for my 80/20 would not.
Nothing against the Parf idea. Looks well thought out. I would just say nothing is faster than dropping a jig down and making holes. I have found the festool 20mm cutter to be quite good and has held up to a ton of drilling. the pics of the green tables are not the half of it.
Birdhunter
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- Jun 16, 2012
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I found out routing the holes did require being careful to “round the bases” a few times to be sure the holes were perfect. I got perfect holes every time once I figured this out. The holes are a very snug fit for Parf dogs and Qwas dogs.
The jig uses pins around two sides to use to locate it for the first set of holes. I asked Woodpeckers to send me two additional pins. The additional pins gave the jig a more secure positioning.
The jig uses pins around two sides to use to locate it for the first set of holes. I asked Woodpeckers to send me two additional pins. The additional pins gave the jig a more secure positioning.
Cheese
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- 12,511
tallgrass said:
Yes, the Woodpeckers jig uses a 1/2" diameter spiral upcut router bit to make either 20mm or 3/4" holes. After the initial plunge, you then have to move the router in a circular motion around the jig hole 3-4 times to remove the extra material. For 20mm holes that would be 3.6mm or .143" per side.
I agree with you about the Festool 20mm hinge boring bit. I was pleasantly surprised. [smile] I assumed I'd get some amount of hole burning because of spinning what is essentially a modified Forstner bit at 10,000 RPM. However, there was NO burning what so ever. Who ever designed that bit got the tool geometries right.
Just a side note, for the first 30 holes I used a brand new Whiteside spiral upcut bit. For the remaining 30 holes, I used the Festool 20mm bit. The 2nd set of holes were rounder, were more consistent in size, required 75% LESS effort on my part and took 50% LESS time to produce.
tallgrass said:
[member=2242]tallgrass[/member] .. Even though I have a couple new 20 mm bits laying around, from your comments, glad I purchased the Festool bit (491072). Just to be safe, I also ordered the Festool 30 mm guide ring and centering mandrel. Looking forward to receiving it and trying it out.
The dominofix. is independent of router. You attach a 30mm copy ring to your router. You insert a 20mm bit. I use the festool one. You can see from my pics how many holes I have cut. IT take about 10-15 mins per table. The copy ring locates the router. you then plunge cut. I have not had burn out problems. Since cutter never touches the jig it is wear resistant.
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