MFT - How square is square?

[delpi767]

I have spent several days trying to get square cuts on my MFT3 using the TS 55 Req.

I am using the Woodpeckers 24 inch square for setup.  The guide rail and the rear fence are absolutely square.  I have checked every possible way over and over and there literally is not a paper width between the fence or guide rail.

However when I crosscut a 12 inch wide piece of ¾ inch plywood, the cut is off between a 64th and a 32nd.

I have confirmed that the fence is straight, that the left edge of the track is straight, and that the wood against the fence is straight.

What I can't know for certain it whether the left side of the guide rain is perfectly parallel with the track the saw rides on.

So, I'm thinking I should be doing better than this but I can't figure where I'm going wrong. [sad]

All suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks,

Dave Davis

 

[copcarcollector]

Have you checked that there is not too much side to side play of the saw on the track?

You can also get slight variations depending on how you push the saw through the cut.

 

[Wizzer]

Take the MFT3 out of the equation. Square up the rail to the wood using the Woodpecker and make a cut. If it comes out square you can rule out the saw/rail. If not, it's something to do with the saw/rail.

It took me a long time to get my MFT3 square. The factory set front stop was not set correctly. I loosened the stop, squared up the rail and set the front support. Once I verified it was square I snugged the factory stop back up to the support and tightened it down.

Good luck!

 

[grbmds]

In addition to play side to side of the saw on the rail, have you checked to make sure that the rail is resting securely on the tab the rail sits on. If not it might move side to side just enough to cause that sort of difference. I invested in a Slop Stop to prevent this from being and issue. It was a good investment as it makes that tab sit securely in the rail with no side to side movement once installed according to the Slop Stop instructions.

 

[Birdhunter]

I agree totally with the Slop Stop as an improvement on accuracy. It is a simple and inexpensive improvement to the track saw.

 

[copcarcollector]

https://www.festoolproducts.com/Tool-Improvements-Slop-Stop-for-Festool-MFT-Tables-p/ti-ss.htm

 

[JCLP]

I have a home made MFT with guide rails and pivot mechanism for rail and I use duct tape to prevent the rail from moving on the little tab. Works perfectly. Never had an issue on movement during a project. Will replace the duct tape when starting a new project.

 

[icecactus]

I too was not getting square cuts when I first got my MFT.

First off, get the slop stop. Worth every penny. That could be your problem. It should be standard on the MFT. I was extremely disappointed in festools sloppy design, especially for how much this thing costs.

Are you checking for square AFTER you tighten the MFT fence down? I found that with the clamp that goes on the end of the fence, if you don't position it properly, once you tighten the clamp, it pulls the fence out of alignment.

 

[tbellemare]

I've always just had a slight sideways bias on my guide rail going onto the front tab. Not enough to bend it, but enough to make it sit against one edge of the tab.

Once the guide rail is pivoted down and sitting on the work piece, that tab has nothing to do with its location. The rubber underneath the guide rail is what keeps it in place.

I must be missing something?

Tom

 

[grbmds]

I too was not getting square cuts when I first got my MFT.

First off, get the slop stop. Worth every penny. That could be your problem. It should be standard on the MFT. I was extremely disappointed in festools sloppy design, especially for how much this thing costs.

Are you checking for square AFTER you tighten the MFT fence down? I found that with the clamp that goes on the end of the fence, if you don't position it properly, once you tighten the clamp, it pulls the fence out of alignment.

Tightening the fence down is definitely something you need to watch and be careful. There are a couple of videos online about this but it is important. When tightening the bracket on the side rail of the MFT, if it isn't sitting right in the fence slot it will definitely pull the whole fence away from what you have determined is square. It won't matter how much effort you have put into squaring the fence and rail up at that point.

 

[Carl Prentiss]

Take the MFT3 out of the equation. Square up the rail to the wood using the Woodpecker and make a cut. If it comes out square you can rule out the saw/rail. If not, it's something to do with the saw/rail.

It took me a long time to get my MFT3 square. The factory set front stop was not set correctly. I loosened the stop, squared up the rail and set the front support. Once I verified it was square I snugged the factory stop back up to the support and tightened it down.

Good luck!

Welcome to the FOG [member=47098]Wizzer[/member] . A well thought out post for being your first.
-Charlie

 

[delpi767]

Thanks to each and every one of you for your suggestions.  I spent a lot of time today and after several different fixes, I think I found that standing directly behind the saw when pushing it made a difference.  Maybe that's because I'm left handed.

I'm not sure why, but that was the only thing I did differently to greatly improve accuracy.

On the advice of many of you, I have ordered a Slop Stop.

And thanks for the comments on the end rail bracket (whatever it is called).  I noticed the other day that it is problematic at best.

Regards,

Dave Davis

 

[grbmds]

I am left-handed too. I found  that now, for using the TS55 and MFT, I'm right-handed. It's just easier and the hoses and cords don't get in the way as much.

 

[Carman]

Lefty here also, not as intuitive at first but after you find a natural/comfortable position it's less problematic.

 

[Alphonse]

Just set up a new MFT/3 this past week.  I too had a few issues.  Much already said here in this thread but here is what I learned.
 
Make certain that when you place the "support unit" against the stop that it is completely parallel and perpendicular to the table's "frame profile" when you tighten it down.  Mine has some slop in it and it can rotate slightly.  So hold it against the stop, push it down from the top to seat it down on the frame profile and then tighten the knob to lock it in place.  Do this for the swivel unit as well. 

I found that the stops in the table's "frame profile" were not square with the top from the factory.  Do not trust that they are set square to the table.  So as a first step, I would recommend assuring they are square or square them to the top as necessary.  This is an not essential step if you do not care if the edges of the table are good reference points.  I would personally find that unacceptable.  I used the saw track with its support system installed on the table along with a Woodpeckers square to get this done.  I had to move one stop almost 3 mm to get the stops aligned to the top.

Assure the saw track is square with the "swivel unit" per the instructions and/or adjust. Make certain that you are raising the tab in the "support unit" high enough to fully engage and support the saw track. 

It is critical that you square up the fence and saw track per the instructions.  Of course a good square is essential and you should have that covered well with your Woodpeckers.  Check it however to assure that it is in good form.

Next, as suggested, getting a Slop Stop and should help as well.  I have had one on order but the shipping is currently slow.  I think the supplier is going through some adjustments/tuning in their shipping process at the moment and I got caught in that.  I hope to have it soon. 

Meanwhile mine cuts dead on as now adjusted w/o the Slop Stop.

 

[peter halle]

As a sidebar, I had a blast for an hour of so at the Festool booth at JLC talking to people staring at the MFT/3.  It was so COOL seeing them beginning to understand what can be done. 

Peter

 

[Jeremiah9675]

https://www.festoolproducts.com/Tool-Improvements-Slop-Stop-for-Festool-MFT-Tables-p/ti-ss.htm

You stole my thunder! This is exactly what you need. I had the same problem. this solved it.

 

[mouppe]

Just set up a new MFT/3 this past week.  I too had a few issues.  Much already said here in this thread but here is what I learned.
 
Make certain that when you place the "support unit" against the stop that it is completely parallel and perpendicular to the table's "frame profile" when you tighten it down.  Mine has some slop in it and it can rotate slightly.  So hold it against the stop, push it down from the top to seat it down on the frame profile and then tighten the knob to lock it in place.  Do this for the swivel unit as well. 

I found that the stops in the table's "frame profile" were not square with the top from the factory.  Do not trust that they are set square to the table.  So as a first step, I would recommend assuring they are square or square them to the top as necessary. This is an not essential step if you do not care if the edges of the table are good reference points.  I would personally find that unacceptable.  I used the saw track with its support system installed on the table along with a Woodpeckers square to get this done.  I had to move one stop almost 3 mm to get the stops aligned to the top.

Assure the saw track is square with the "swivel unit" per the instructions and/or adjust. Make certain that you are raising the tab in the "support unit" high enough to fully engage and support the saw track. 

It is critical that you square up the fence and saw track per the instructions.  Of course a good square is essential and you should have that covered well with your Woodpeckers.  Check it however to assure that it is in good form.

Next, as suggested, getting a Slop Stop and should help as well.  I have had one on order but the shipping is currently slow.  I think the supplier is going through some adjustments/tuning in their shipping process at the moment and I got caught in that.  I hope to have it soon. 

Meanwhile mine cuts dead on as now adjusted w/o the Slop Stop.

They are not supposed to be square to the top. If they are, it's by chance only. Squaring the rail to the holes is a different method used by many people- search for parf dogs or qwas dogs on the FOG.

 

[Alphonse]

Just set up a new MFT/3 this past week.  I too had a few issues.  Much already said here in this thread but here is what I learned.
 
Make certain that when you place the "support unit" against the stop that it is completely parallel and perpendicular to the table's "frame profile" when you tighten it down.  Mine has some slop in it and it can rotate slightly.  So hold it against the stop, push it down from the top to seat it down on the frame profile and then tighten the knob to lock it in place.  Do this for the swivel unit as well. 

I found that the stops in the table's "frame profile" were not square with the top from the factory.  Do not trust that they are set square to the table.  So as a first step, I would recommend assuring they are square or square them to the top as necessary. This is an not essential step if you do not care if the edges of the table are good reference points.  I would personally find that unacceptable.  I used the saw track with its support system installed on the table along with a Woodpeckers square to get this done.  I had to move one stop almost 3 mm to get the stops aligned to the top.

Assure the saw track is square with the "swivel unit" per the instructions and/or adjust. Make certain that you are raising the tab in the "support unit" high enough to fully engage and support the saw track. 

It is critical that you square up the fence and saw track per the instructions.  Of course a good square is essential and you should have that covered well with your Woodpeckers.  Check it however to assure that it is in good form.

Next, as suggested, getting a Slop Stop and should help as well.  I have had one on order but the shipping is currently slow.  I think the supplier is going through some adjustments/tuning in their shipping process at the moment and I got caught in that.  I hope to have it soon. 

Meanwhile mine cuts dead on as now adjusted w/o the Slop Stop.

They are not supposed to be square to the top. If they are, it's by chance only. Squaring the rail to the holes is a different method used by many people- search for parf dogs or qwas dogs on the FOG.

Thanks for the tip for dogs and I have some similar to the Qwas. 

The holes in my table are square to the top.  These tops are made by cnc routers and the holes should be square to the top.  I would have been sorely disappointed to find out that the holes in mine were machined without reference to or not square to the top. 

So yes you can square to the holes or to the edges of the table.  By the way, you can square to the edges of table without the need for dogs. 

 

[sancho57]

I'm coming into this a little late.

I noticed you said that you were cutting ply. My question to you , if you already answered this sorry. But when you first cut that sheet,maid you cut off the factory edge?
With sheet goods Thats the first step. Once the factory edge is trimmed all subsequent rips are off the trimmed edge to be used as a base line. Then the ply is squared during cross cutting.