MFT Stability

J

justawoodworker

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2007
Messages
3
I am not an owner, at least not yet. But I have been looking and have come up with some questions about Festool tools.

The one that is bothering me most right now is the stability of the MFT.  I have only seen it used once and that was in a showroom.  It seemed to be somewhat shanky on its legs.

Is it?  Functionally, it looks great but is it unstable enough to be somewhat unsafe?
 
I wouldn't call it shaky, and not in use.  It is somewhat light, however, and this makes any bump into the table rather disruptive...  But, if you have not already guessed, I like these tables.  They work well and are most accommodating, to say the least.

Corwin
 
Keep in mind the MFT is a portable table so you wouldn't want it built like a tank. It is stabile to the point you can do assemble work on it, sanding, etc. It will not move if bumped.

As compared to something like a WorkMate the MFT is like a tank and much more useful.
 
If you are looking for the same functionality but more stability, some folks have ordered various parts and built their own custom MFT-like tables.  The major components of the MFT as be purchased individually. 

I'm admittedly not the person to answer the question of what you would need, but some of the other guys on forum probably could or you can call us and ask for Darin or Chris, our two Festool experts.  They are in the office from 8a-5p EST M-F  at 1-800-443-7937.

Shane
 
I have two MFT's connected together as one large MFT.  The stability is totally satisfactory for my needs.  I would not recommend it as a hand planning bench, but for everything else I have done, it works really well.  I use mine to crosscut large MDF, melamine and plywood panels and it handles those with no problems.  It also makes a great gluing and assembly work table.  Read Jerry Work's downloadable manual, if you have not already done so.  Find it here:
http://www.festoolusa.com/woodworking.aspx

and scroll down to " Getting the most from the MFT multifunction table by Jerry Work".

I accidently bumped one of the guide rail brackets the other day.  The table never moved, but I did have to reset the bracket against the stop because I gave it such a sharp rap with a large board.
 
Last friday I had an electrician come in to hang some light in the overhead. He was probably 200 lbs and his assistant was easily 230. They were both on one of my MFTs and it didnt seem to buckle under that extreme test.
The lights are hung.
 
My MFT is very stable....except when the the adjustable foot is misadjusted.

The floor in my shop is so unlevel that I did not have enough adjustment in the foot so I placed a 3/8" shim under it.  Then I could adjust the foot and the table was stable.  At one point doing my last project I moved the table and it came off it's shim...I didn't notice it because I was essentially complete with the project.  I then made a video for my Domino review and noticed in it that the table was unstable.  Once the table was again sitting on the shim and all four feet the MFT was again stable.

All of that to say that perhaps the guy doing the demo had not properly adjusted the leveling foot and that is what caused the instability.
 
As John has observed and pointed out, the swiss cheese top is very strong having support from all four sides.  I have my MFT up against a wall with tool pannel behind.  Most tools on the pannel i cannot reach without climbing up onto the table top.  I do not even come close to the 430#s john is talking about, but i am very certain my top will hold far in excess of my 140.

I have used the MFT for hand planing.  If the table wants to move around and shake too much, I can tell without any further inspection that it is time for a session on the water wheel.  Once the blade is razor sharp, the table becomes much more stable.  no extra shims, braces or any thing like that.  Just a little water and patience was all that was needed.  I true up surfaces on small logs and warped/twisted lumber by hand planing on the MFT.  If i have a lot of truing up to do, i get out the HL 850.
Tinker
 
I have raised mine up by about 3" on blocks, and it is stable for normal Festool use (sanding, sawing, routing, chiseling, assembly and dominoing {real soon now}).

As mentioned previously, however, you can't effectively use it for hand planing or whaling on your work with a dead blow hammer (e.g, to coax sliding dovetails on slightly bowed boards into position). That's when you use the 300 pound 'classic' bench (with a grid of 3/4" holes in the top) that you moved into the corner, and out of the way.

Charles
 
Ditto on the above advice.  My MFT is plenty stable for sawing and routing and moderate "persuasion" with a hammer, but I go to Brutus, the big bench for hand planing and serious whacking.  Jerry Work put some cast iron bench legs under his MFT for additional stability, but I haven't seen the need for that, yet.

My only problem with the MFT is that the large horizontal surface is a magnet for half-done projects, stuff I mean to get to soon, and stuff I don't have time to put away right now - so I always need to spend a few minutes cleaning before I can actually use the MFT. :D :D
 
Hi,

When I wrote the "Getting the Most from the Festool MFT" manual I used two 1080s hooked together with table joining units as one major work station and I built a large version of an MFT using Festool components and cast iron legs as a second major work station.  Both are more than stable enough for the work I do building fine furniture from mostly solid woods.  Since that time I have found the individual 1080s to be more flexible as they can be reconfigured end to end, side to side or end to side in multiple table combinations to fit the needs of an individual project.  As a result, I took the large table out and replaced it with three more 1080s so now all of my work stations are MFTs except for the one sanding station where I still use a steel leg structure with a solid maple top.  I have never found an issue with the stability of MFTs.

Jerry

justawoodworker said:
I am not an owner, at least not yet. But I have been looking and have come up with some questions about Festool tools.

The one that is bothering me most right now is the stability of the MFT.  I have only seen it used once and that was in a showroom.  It seemed to be somewhat shanky on its legs.

Is it?   Functionally, it looks great but is it unstable enough to be somewhat unsafe?
Click to expand...
 
Jerry Work said:
Hi,

When I wrote the "Getting the Most from the Festool MFT" manual I used two 1080s hooked together with table joining units as one major work station and I built a large version of an MFT using Festool components and cast iron legs as a second major work station.  Both are more than stable enough for the work I do building fine furniture from mostly solid woods.  Since that time I have found the individual 1080s to be more flexible as they can be reconfigured end to end, side to side or end to side in multiple table combinations to fit the needs of an individual project.   As a result, I took the large table out and replaced it with three more 1080s so now all of my work stations are MFTs except for the one sanding station where I still use a steel leg structure with a solid maple top.  I have never found an issue with the stability of MFTs.

Jerry
Click to expand...

Jerry,

I understand the concept of connecting the tables, but wonder if your shop floor is really level. Mine is concrete and I'm not sure with only two adjustable legs and the rail connectors if I could get them to be flat across the total surface. Any tricks, or do you start with a level floor?
 
Jerry,

You might take a look at the responses to the Wish the MFT had... thread.  I'm in the same boat and really need a couple sets of levelers like others have made...  just might be awhile before I get to that project.  For now, the old wood shim will have to do.

Corwin
 
I have two 1080 MFt's connected after seeing how Dave from Cave Creeek AZ did the same thing,  My garage floor is far from level ... if I skied I would be a happy camper because of the slope from the center to the edge of my garage floor. I use wood shims for now to get things more or less level, but I always knock the shims as I am moving around the shop. There have been some posts about modifying the legs to create a leveling system, but I have yet to do that. It is on the list.... However, the wood shims work well enough most of the time.
 
Hi,

I understand the problem with way out of level floors.  In my studio the floors are 100 year old clear fir.  While they are not very level, they are plenty level enough.  When I put two or more tables together if I need a common flat reference surface I use two pieces of wood as long as the length of the combined tables with holes drilled in them about every 400mm or so to accept 8mm bolts.  The hole center lines are made the same as the center line to edge of top space on the upper track on the table side rails.  By sliding these two pieces of wood onto all the combined tables they lift the faces of the top surfaces to be co-planer independent of what the feet do.  The bending moment on the wood is only the distance across the gap between two tables (not much) and I have found this to produce a very sable, very strong, very flat reference surface.  If one table "Ts" into the side of another I try to move it so there is one edge to one end in common if I can.  The same pieces of wood help stabilize even this "T" shaped table surface.  So far I have not found a configuration I could not get flat.  Sometimes a known straight level clamped to two table tops where I cannot join them in this way also solves the table top level issue.  I simply pay little attention to how level the legs are since the only thing that matters is how level the combined tops are.  If one leg lifted a bit I would just temporarily shim it until that project use was over.  Hope this helps.

Jerry

sroxberg said:
Jerry Work said:
Hi,

When I wrote the "Getting the Most from the Festool MFT" manual I used two 1080s hooked together with table joining units as one major work station and I built a large version of an MFT using Festool components and cast iron legs as a second major work station.  Both are more than stable enough for the work I do building fine furniture from mostly solid woods.  Since that time I have found the individual 1080s to be more flexible as they can be reconfigured end to end, side to side or end to side in multiple table combinations to fit the needs of an individual project.   As a result, I took the large table out and replaced it with three more 1080s so now all of my work stations are MFTs except for the one sanding station where I still use a steel leg structure with a solid maple top.  I have never found an issue with the stability of MFTs.

Jerry
Click to expand...

Jerry,

I understand the concept of connecting the tables, but wonder if your shop floor is really level. Mine is concrete and I'm not sure with only two adjustable legs and the rail connectors if I could get them to be flat across the total surface. Any tricks, or do you start with a level floor?
Click to expand...
 
I just got my MFT 1080 yesterday and set it up in my shop. I was skeptical as well, but I must say I am impressed by the table's stability. It is heavy and has a nice, solid feel to it. Yes, with enough effort, you can get it to move. But with steady, even pressure (like it would see during a sawing or routing operation), it will stay put. If I experience problems, I will develop a way to clamp it to the floor (which for me is wood).
 
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