MFT Top Protection

[Mike Goetzke]

I recently made a 4'x8' worktable that consists of couple of saw horses, TrackTubes, and three CNC'd MFT type slabs that are 32"x48".

I'd rather not cut through the tops but do want to use bench dogs. Do you use a waste, sacrificial, spoiler board so as not to cut through the top?

(The CNC guy uses a material called Sintra for his CNC top (PVC sheet???).)

Thanks,

Mike

(probably should mention I can also configure this as a 32"x8' top or 32"x4'...)

 

[Grev]

I recently made a 4'x8' worktable that consists of couple of saw horses, TrackTubes, and three CNC'd MFT type slabs that are 32"x48".

I'd rather not cut through the tops but do want to use bench dogs. Do you use a waste, sacrificial, spoiler board so as not to cut through the top?

(The CNC guy uses a material called Sintra for his CNC top (PVC sheet???).)

Thanks,

Mike

(probably should mention I can also configure this as a 32"x8' top or 32"x4'...)

Mike ... The benefit of using Track Tubes is you can easily slide the table left and right, depending which side you need material support.  I have two tops .. but usually only use one top and a couple wings for material support.  I used dominos to attach a sacrificial piece of MDF to one top for all my straight cuts and use the same dog holes for the rail, so all my cuts are exactly at the same kerf cut and perfectly 90 degrees.  I just use a tape measure to measure from the kerf cut to the stop block, so every cut is right on.  This is the fastest and simplest way for straight cuts on any length material.  I don't cut angles much, but when I do I use my sheet of insulation over the top .. but probably will begin just using one side of the MFT tops for smaller pieces.  Another benefit of using the tubes ... just flip a top over if you want to keep one side "pretty."  Here's some photos.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

I used to be a bit OCD about tops, nowadays I’m more OCD about the finished job.
I don’t worry about the tops any more, when they get so bad that it hinders operation, I make new ones.
I don’t abuse them but, don’t get too attached to them.

 

[TinyShop]

Assuming 20mm dog holes:

[Source:https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mft-3-Prot...sid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10&var=453280381271]

Haven't tried them and have no affiliation but know of their existence.

 

[montyss]

I've been looking for those but for sale in the US or Canada .

 

[TinyShop]

I've been looking for those but for sale in the US or Canada .

Easy enough to find a printing service willing to print these for you:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2075639

Try fellow forum member's etsy shop: 123one - he's been willing to print random things for me.

 

[montyss]

Thanks for the info … I'm going to contact that person about making some up for me

 

[sancho57]

I just take 4 ea 3/4 pieces of scrap plywood. lay them on 2 of my MFTs set the sheet of ply on them and rip away . After that then I set the scraps under what ever Im cutting. I also got a set of the MFT stand offs from Lee Valley which work pretty good to.

I have a old MFT top all cut up that Ill set on my MFT as a sacrificial top to..

To lazy to go get some foam.....

 

[rst]

I originally used a piece of tempered masonite the size of my top on mine.  I eventually made a dovetailed slot in the top to slide a UHMW piece that I could replace.  As you can see I misjudged the one side of my dovetail, function of starting something, having to walk away to deal with something else and not thoroughly reacquainting with the initial job...that's what makes epoxy such a valuable asset. 
View attachment 1  View attachment 3

 

[tomp]

I bought a pack of these from Amazon

[attachimg=1]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N702S9V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Qty 15 for $21. The small diameter is about 3/4" diameter x 11/16" long, the large diameter is 2-1/2" diameter x about 7/32" long. The green top surface is pretty grabby, and the loose fit in the 20mm holes doesn't seem to affect the function.

 

[Qbic]

Take a look at these.  cost more but will last longer.

https://benchdogs.co.uk/products/3mm-bench-top-protectors

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

I used to be a bit OCD about tops, nowadays I’m more OCD about the finished job.
I don’t worry about the tops any more, when they get so bad that it hinders operation, I make new ones.
I don’t abuse them but, don’t get too attached to them.

Same. I bought the DominoFix MFT Jig and have been making MFT/3 tops out of Baltic Birch. If I'm going to make a LOT of cuts I'll use some home-made cleats similar to the RUWI product, otherwise I just cut into the MFT top, knowing that I have a few more batched out and waiting in the corner of my shop. Ultimately, the MFT should serve to promote production.

 

[peter halle]

Make projects and smiles!  To heck with the tops.

MY motto.

Peter

 

[Mike Goetzke]

Thanks for all the great suggestions.

Think I'm going to cut into the tops  [eek]. I have three tops so six surfaces to go through and if needed I can make new tops. Think the fear of cutting into them was like when I got my new Unisaw several years ago I was so afraid to put even a scratch on it. I now have a 1950 Uni that my youngest son and I totally restored and the top on it is "well" seasoned and cuts every bit a well as the new one did.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

Thanks for all the great suggestions.

Think I'm going to cut into the tops  [eek]. I have three tops so six surfaces to go through and if needed I can make new tops. Think the fear of cutting into them was like when I got my new Unisaw several years ago I was so afraid to put even a scratch on it. I now have a 1950 Uni that my youngest son and I totally restored and the top on it is "well" seasoned and cuts every bit a well as the new one did.

Just an opinion, and something I’ve noticed, when you get over worrying about kerf marks and stains on the tops, you will work more comfortably. Don’t get me wrong, I am somebody that takes great care of everything, especially my tools. However, these types of tables and benches were designed with a working environment in mind, and everything that brings with it. So, just use it as it was designed to be used. A replacement top doesn’t take long to make, in the grand scheme.

Just be careful after cutting thick material, and reverting back to thinner stock, as you could cut too deep into an aluminium side rail, and that’s not so cheap to correct.

A coat of Osmo wax oil or similar will give the top some protection against moisture, and when gluing up any work.

 

[Peter_C]

Just cut into it! I consider the top sacrificial and cut every which direction on mine.

 

[Bugsysiegals]

Mike ... The benefit of using Track Tubes is you can easily slide the table left and right, depending which side you need material support.  I have two tops .. but usually only use one top and a couple wings for material support.  I used dominos to attach a sacrificial piece of MDF to one top for all my straight cuts and use the same dog holes for the rail, so all my cuts are exactly at the same kerf cut and perfectly 90 degrees.  I just use a tape measure to measure from the kerf cut to the stop block, so every cut is right on.  This is the fastest and simplest way for straight cuts on any length material.  I don't cut angles much, but when I do I use my sheet of insulation over the top .. but probably will begin just using one side of the MFT tops for smaller pieces.  Another benefit of using the tubes ... just flip a top over if you want to keep one side "pretty."  Here's some photos.

I believe I always measured from the guide rail splinter strip in the past when calibrating my fence ... so long as the guide rail can be accurately relocated every time to that kerf line, which it should, then I like your method better, thanks for sharing! 

About your setup, how do you mount your WP fence ... seems some type of dogs underneath or clamps not shown in the pictures?

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I do it a couple of different ways. I have a 4'x8' MFT style assembly bench that is only used for stops and clamping/assembly. The place that I cut on is the same size, but doesn't have all of the holes. There are only a few, just enough to set up the rail with dogs and clips. It has T-track with a tape measure and sliding stop embedded into the surface for repeatable cuts.
Angled cuts are done by just laying the rail out wherever it needs to be on a sacrificial piece of particle board. It has a main kerf in it at 45 degrees for longer cuts. These cuts are usually point to point from marks on the material, not especially critical. I also do shorter, random cuts there too, but only if it is already set-up.

 

[Bugsysiegals]

I do it a couple of different ways. I have a 4'x8' MFT style assembly bench that is only used for stops and clamping/assembly. The place that I cut on is the same size, but doesn't have all of the holes. There are only a few, just enough to set up the rail with dogs and clips. It has T-track with a tape measure and sliding stop embedded into the surface for repeatable cuts.
Angled cuts are done by just laying the rail out wherever it needs to be on a sacrificial piece of particle board. It has a main kerf in it at 45 degrees for longer cuts. These cuts are usually point to point from marks on the material, not especially critical. I also do shorter, random cuts there too, but only if it is already set-up.

I considered doing the embedded T-Track but liked the idea of flip stops on a fence in order to have multiple stops which can be moved out of the way and then returned to the exact position as needed.  Besides easy calibration, is there any other advantages of the embedded T-Track?  Do you have any pics?

 

[Grev]

I believe I always measured from the guide rail splinter strip in the past when calibrating my fence ... so long as the guide rail can be accurately relocated every time to that kerf line, which it should, then I like your method better, thanks for sharing! 

About your setup, how do you mount your WP fence ... seems some type of dogs underneath or clamps not shown in the pictures?

In the original photos I drilled a hole and used a knob/hex bolt to capture the bottom track.  When tightened, it's rock solid!  Now I use WoodRiver "back to back" t-track and attach it through the slots in along the edge of my TrackTop.  Same idea, but the slots are much more versatile to attach accessories by first attaching a section of 10 series t-slot to the edge as shown.