MFT Top Protection

[Bugsysiegals]

Very nice!  I’ve an Incra fence mounted with Parf Anchor Dogs.  I’d say it’s solid but could be deflected a bit if you had a dull blade and we’re forcing the cut to fast.  I love how convenient it is to add/remove the fence but it’s always nice to see other options and while this would require just a little extra time, I like it’s closer to the edge, more sturdy, and could even be shimmed if the dog holes were off a few thousandths … thanks for sharing!

Why did you switch from the WP fence … was it not long enough compared to this one?  I’ve always used my fence up top since cutting towards it keeps the material pushed up to it … so you find any (dis)advantages of having it closer to you?

 

[Grev]

Very nice!  I’ve an Incra fence mounted with Parf Anchor Dogs.  I’d say it’s solid but could be deflected a bit if you had a dull blade and we’re forcing the cut to fast.  I love how convenient it is to add/remove the fence but it’s always nice to see other options and while this would require just a little extra time, I like it’s closer to the edge, more sturdy, and could even be shimmed if the dog holes were off a few thousandths … thanks for sharing!

Why did you switch from the WP fence … was it not long enough compared to this one?  I’ve always used my fence up top since cutting towards it keeps the material pushed up to it … so you find any (dis)advantages of having it closer to you?

You noticed .. I threw on the fence just to show you how it attaches .. I do attach to the far side when I use it, however, I really don't use it attached to the top any longer like shown.  Now I leave my t-slots attached to the edge and have an angle bracket I attach the fence to.  I switched to the WoodRiver t-track mainly because it's less expensive and works perfectly  .. only needing a track on each side and place for an adhesive tape. Plus, I can pick it up at the new Woodcraft store in Las Vegas when I make a trip down (I'm in southern Utah), so don't have to pay for shipping. Either track works good.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I considered doing the embedded T-Track but liked the idea of flip stops on a fence in order to have multiple stops which can be moved out of the way and then returned to the exact position as needed.  Besides easy calibration, is there any other advantages of the embedded T-Track?  Do you have any pics?

Here it is, set-up, empty. It shows the two rows of dog holes that are for the back stops. I use the ones that are closer to the middle for narrower pieces, so I don't have to reach so far. The far row can cut much wider material and is there  for the rail dogs to be as far apart as I could, for squareness/stability. I always put the rail in the same place. You can't see it in this photo, but there is a joint under the rail, so that last outer section is replaceable. It has a few Dominos and two Lamello Clamex connectors holding it together. This way as the kerf gets destroyed by angled cuts, I can fix it.
The T-track is double (reversed) to hold the adhesive tape measure.
As you thought, it is not flippable, so it does get in the way occasionally, but this makes it far closer to the side I cut from. I do like the idea that is shown above, but it would be just too far away on a 4' table. I have the little blocks under the rail to support the ends when cutting, they can be changed according to the thickness of the material. It's too far away to see, but there is a screw in the end of the stop block, so the measurement could be adjusted. I line the wooden base edge to the marks on the tape and the screw head is the actual stop. This also allows for some dust clearance. It is 100% solid though, no movement whatsoever. The other advantage is that it doesn't have to be removed to have a totally flat tabletop. If I would need a bunch of parts cut to the same length, there are other options, since I am in a huge cabinet shop. This is a little side space to do simple quick cuts. There are disadvantages to huge shops, everything is far away.
So, I make a cutlist for the major components, cut some to correct size and others slightly over. This is done all at once and the oversize parts are cut to fit back at my assembly area. Because nominal sizes are never exact, adjustments need to be made, but I don't have to go so far to re-cut them.
The short sections of T-track at the left of the pic are for the fence of my router table, which is on that opposing corner. The hose on the lower shelf is attached to the router. I leave it in place and just pull it and the power cord out to connect to the CT26, when needed. This is all just a couple of steps away from the end of the bench where the CT sits. The dogs, clips, and stop all get stored in the small drawer to the left of the Woodpeckers rail square, directly below.

 

[afish]

I do it a couple of different ways. I have a 4'x8' MFT style assembly bench that is only used for stops and clamping/assembly. The place that I cut on is the same size, but doesn't have all of the holes. There are only a few, just enough to set up the rail with dogs and clips. It has T-track with a tape measure and sliding stop embedded into the surface for repeatable cuts.
Angled cuts are done by just laying the rail out wherever it needs to be on a sacrificial piece of particle board. It has a main kerf in it at 45 degrees for longer cuts. These cuts are usually point to point from marks on the material, not especially critical. I also do shorter, random cuts there too, but only if it is already set-up.

I considered doing the embedded T-Track but liked the idea of flip stops on a fence in order to have multiple stops which can be moved out of the way and then returned to the exact position as needed.  Besides easy calibration, is there any other advantages of the embedded T-Track?  Do you have any pics?

Bugs and I went through this a year or so ago.  When I used to cut on a DIY MFT bench best cuts I got was with a rail hinge and a piece of 1x3 80/20 as a fence. (3" side down to the table) I used 2 - 90° brackets that attached to parf achor dogs.  This worked well too because you can shim in-between the bracket and 80/20 to fine tune using the 5 cut method.  The MFT was also my outfeed table so the 80/20 fence could come off and on in about 3 seconds.  then just drop the hinge down and I was in table saw mode.  A rail hinge will (not festool unit) will give you the best results and will keep the saw kerf in the same spot and reduce the urge to cut willy nilly. 

Also notch the fence to fit under the rail this makes a WORLD of difference.  I hade a series of cuts with an aluminum blade and broke/ground off the pieces leave about 7/16 of material to slide under the rail.

As far as flip stops go its hard to find some that are good wont slip or deflect so I used 80/20 mending plates (4hole) that screw down to the 3" face and made a simple 3 sided plywood box that looked like an upside down U that would straddle the 80/20 and butt up to the mending plates.  Since the plates had 4 screws they wouldnt slip and was very stout.  You can have multiple plates for common cuts and can switch by simply lifting the upside down plywood U and moving it to another plate/stop.  My 80/20 was 8' long others might not need it that long.  I think it only cost me 100 bucks for the piece.  As long as you put the anchor dogs in the same 2 holes each time your stops for common lengths are always dead nuts. (sorry old shop term)

I also made some stops early on that used 2 anchor dogs and star knobs with a piece of .75 Russian birch about 3-4 wide and 12" long that had a slot for 8mm in the center.  You will need a few.  This allows you to set a stop using the birch as the stop tighten the star knobs and if that stop is in the way you can simply pull the whole thing (2 star knobs, 2 anchor dogs and the birch) up out of the dog holes and pop it back in if needed later.  As long as you do a good job drilling the MFT holes you are good.  If the holes are a little off you will need to mark them so you can make sure they go back into the same holes.  This isnt as good as the 80/20 if you are always cutting the same dimensions but it does make a good supplement for the odd ball dimensions.  This seems far supior to the t-track in the table way for repetitive cuts.  Working in small space I found myself always flipping back and forth between dimensions. 

 

[Packard]

I slap a 4' x 8' piece of 2" thick foam insulation on my table before I make any cuts.  So far that has worked well.  It is light and easy to lay aside. 

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I have multiple stops on the Kreg rails of my mitersaw. Anything under 12" wide gets cut there, so the table is primarily used for trimming sheet goods that have been rough cut first. These are rarely all the same size, so measuring accuracy and repeatability are more important. The reception desks and similar projects all require panels to skin them, so it works perfectly, for me.
If I felt the need for flip stops on a fence, I suppose one could easily be adapted to either row of holes.
At this point I don't, but I do like the way you've gone about it.

 

[SoonerFan]

Same here.  I use foam on top of my out feed table to break down sheet goods.  Cheap, easy and for me works great.

I slap a 4' x 8' piece of 2" thick foam insulation on my table before I make any cuts.  So far that has worked well.  It is light and easy to lay aside.