Mft top video

Just jumped over to YT and watched his first box joint video, Kriss is definitely a smart cookie. Simple and really elegant design.

I subscribed to see more videos as they come out, go Kriss!

RMW
 
Kriss, pardon the ignorance but is the 5mm bit used the one that comes with the LR32? If so, which one, because if I'm not mistaken it comes with two, correct?
 
mprzybylski said:
Kriss, pardon the ignorance but is the 5mm bit used the one that comes with the LR32? If so, which one, because if I'm not mistaken it comes with two, correct?

You are correct that the LR32 set comes with two 5mm bits. Short answer: you can use either.

I used the "V" point dowel drill bit, Festool part 491064. The "V" point is designed to reduce tearout on the reverse side, but a little tearout in this application isn't an issue at all. Technically you don't even have to go all the way through the material, only deep enough to accommodate a shelf peg.
 
PA floor guy said:
Kriss,  great video. I have to ask what everyone else is thinking.  What is your background, I see you have a nice assortment of festool.  How did you get into the trade.  I will be using your technique very soon on a mobile wood shop I'm building.

Hey PA floor guy,

I'm an electrical engineer (technically, still a student). Internships in between gather funds for the green cool-aid [smile]

My first exposure to woodworking was some years ago when I wanted to make a few wooden enclosure boxes for an electronics project (a Jeopardy-game buzzer system). I knew someone in the field, and they helped me cut the parts in their shop.

Inspired from this short shop experience, I set my sights on some woodworking tools. Ultimately, that materialized into a mitre saw and a cheap table saw - the later of which I'm still deathly afraid of! Needless to say, the table saw is no longer with me.

My desire to woodwork persisted, but I wasn't at all happy with my tool array. Everything was more hassle to use than I felt was worth, so things sat dormant in a garage.

If I was building a project, I'd actually head out to Home Depot and re-purchase material just so I can have it cut to final size on the store's panel saw. It's a fair assumption that my early projects looked unprofessional as a result.

It was only last year that I discovered Festool. Started with the TS 55 = no more Home Depot panel saw! Then it's all been downhill from there (or uphill depending your perspective). It's unfathomable how far Festool products have driven my woodworking. I have a small shop space, but the versatility is like nothing else thanks to this system.

Hopefully one day this will be more than a hobby.

Kriss
 
Thank you Kris, it is so good to see young folks get enthused about woodworking.  Will subscribe to your youtube channel today.  Bill
 
Pretty impressive, Kriss. Welcome to the forum, I'm sure I speak for everyone when I say we're all very excited to see what you come up with next.
 
FastEasySmartTOOL said:
mprzybylski said:
Kriss, pardon the ignorance but is the 5mm bit used the one that comes with the LR32? If so, which one, because if I'm not mistaken it comes with two, correct?

You are correct that the LR32 set comes with two 5mm bits. Short answer: you can use either.

I used the "V" point dowel drill bit, Festool part 491064. The "V" point is designed to reduce tearout on the reverse side, but a little tearout in this application isn't an issue at all. Technically you don't even have to go all the way through the material, only deep enough to accommodate a shelf peg.

Got it, thanks. That now begs my other question, which shelf peg is precise enough to fit into that hole and make alignment so easy? :)
 
mprzybylski said:
FastEasySmartTOOL said:
mprzybylski said:
Kriss, pardon the ignorance but is the 5mm bit used the one that comes with the LR32? If so, which one, because if I'm not mistaken it comes with two, correct?

You are correct that the LR32 set comes with two 5mm bits. Short answer: you can use either.

I used the "V" point dowel drill bit, Festool part 491064. The "V" point is designed to reduce tearout on the reverse side, but a little tearout in this application isn't an issue at all. Technically you don't even have to go all the way through the material, only deep enough to accommodate a shelf peg.

Got it, thanks. That now begs my other question, which shelf peg is precise enough to fit into that hole and make alignment so easy? :)

You can buy precision dowel pins from McMaster, they come in many sizes including 5mm:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-dowel-pins/=v2ujkh

RMW
 
Thanks Richard for the link. Now my question, is the M5 dia. the 5mm and also what length would you get?

Rusty
 
PA floor guy said:
His YouTube name is rocky nine 11. Some great stuff.

Couldn't find anything under this name, but you can see it under: FastEasySmartTOOL
 
Richard/RMW said:
mprzybylski said:
FastEasySmartTOOL said:
mprzybylski said:
Kriss, pardon the ignorance but is the 5mm bit used the one that comes with the LR32? If so, which one, because if I'm not mistaken it comes with two, correct?

You are correct that the LR32 set comes with two 5mm bits. Short answer: you can use either.

I used the "V" point dowel drill bit, Festool part 491064. The "V" point is designed to reduce tearout on the reverse side, but a little tearout in this application isn't an issue at all. Technically you don't even have to go all the way through the material, only deep enough to accommodate a shelf peg.

Got it, thanks. That now begs my other question, which shelf peg is precise enough to fit into that hole and make alignment so easy? :)

You can buy precision dowel pins from McMaster, they come in many sizes including 5mm:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-dowel-pins/=v2ujkh

RMW

Thank you Richard, much appreciated.
 
Rusty Miller said:
Thanks Richard for the link. Now my question, is the M5 dia. the 5mm and also what length would you get?

Rusty

Hi Rusty. I think the length can vary. I assume the bottom hole is < 18mm, it looked like the top holes were plunged clear thru. Perhaps 25mm would work - maybe 15 into the bottom and 10 into the top?

RMW
 
Kinda what I was thinking about the length.  That kid definitely knows an easy way of making a top.  Wonder what bit he is using for the 20mm holes.  Maybe he'll chime in.

Rusty
 
Rusty Miller said:
Kinda what I was thinking about the length.  That kid definitely knows an easy way of making a top.  Wonder what bit he is using for the 20mm holes.  Maybe he'll chime in.

Rusty

See reply #16 above - he says he's using Festools 20mm hinge boring bit.

neil
 
Richard/RMW said:
Rusty Miller said:
Thanks Richard for the link. Now my question, is the M5 dia. the 5mm and also what length would you get?

Rusty

Hi Rusty. I think the length can vary. I assume the bottom hole is < 18mm, it looked like the top holes were plunged clear thru. Perhaps 25mm would work - maybe 15 into the bottom and 10 into the top?

RMW

Hey guys,

To hopefully clear some confusion, I actually used standard 5mm diameter shelf pegs from Home Depot. The fit was quite snug, so I don't think any precision stuff is required here.

This is the exact product I got: 5mm Zinc Shelf Support

That link is Canadian, but I'm sure you can find something in your area. For example, Lee Valley has something very similar that I'm sure would work just as well: Economy Shelf Supports

The length of this specific shelf support is 8mm on each side. It's true I plunged the 5mm bit straight through on both top and bottom workpieces, but that's just because I was lazy to set the router's depth stop.

Don't overthink this [smile]

Kriss
 
Thanks Kriss.  Your videos are really great and as soon as I get an LR32 system I'll try out your hole drilling set up.

Rusty
 
Kriss,

How would you go about making a top that is larger than the MFT and could/would you possibly do a video on that?

I know there are a lot of guys out there that make their own MFT style benches and to my knowledge there is no video on how to make the top.

Keith
 
BigCountry73 said:
Kriss,

How would you go about making a top that is larger than the MFT and could/would you possibly do a video on that?

I know there are a lot of guys out there that make their own MFT style benches and to my knowledge there is no video on how to make the top.

Keith

Technically, with the method I demonstrate there is no limit to the length (long side) of the new MFT top. Just use a longer piece of material, and keep shifting it over! The only limit is on the width (short side), which must fit inside the long side of an official MFT such that you can use the MFT's guide rail mechanism.

You should be able to make a pretty large top this way. Assuming the largest MDF sheet you can find is 4' x 8', you can make a top as large as 8' x ~3.25'
 
FastEasySmartTOOL said:
BigCountry73 said:
Kriss,

How would you go about making a top that is larger than the MFT and could/would you possibly do a video on that?

I know there are a lot of guys out there that make their own MFT style benches and to my knowledge there is no video on how to make the top.

Keith

Technically, with the method I demonstrate there is no limit to the length (long side) of the new MFT top. Just use a longer piece of material, and keep shifting it over! The only limit is on the width (short side), which must fit inside the long side of an official MFT such that you can use the MFT's guide rail mechanism.

You should be able to make a pretty large top this way. Assuming the largest MDF sheet you can find is 4' x 8', you can make a top as large as 8' x ~3.25'

Seems simple enough. Thank you.

Again, thanks for making the video. It really helps people like myself that are visual learners!

Keith
 
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