MFT vs Table Saw

There're tasks that the tracksaw is ill-equipped to do (i.e. relatively much harder to do) compared to a table saw, such as these:

1) Cutting V-grooves
2) Cutting bevels like those on a cabinet door
3) Cutting dadoes
4) Cutting various joints like T&G, dovetails etc.
5) Cutting circles.

But a table saw can't handle plunge cuts for a kitchen sink either!
 
Crazyraceguy said:
I get it, in some cases (like Sam cutting parts curved in the opposite plane) but these guys cutting absolutely flat parts? It's just lazy/stupid. Plus, the blade is far more stable, when the upper guide is down where it should be.
You attempt to follow a curve and the blade twists with the part and continues to cut somewhat straight, until suddenly the pressure on the back of the blade is enough, then it tends to over-cut. Far better results come from proper adjustment. A bandsaw, when adjusted correctly, is one of the safest tools in the shop. The blade is almost completely covered by the workpiece and it cannot kick-back, but you can turn it into a dismembering device in seconds.

You can buy commercial grade (intended for tool rooms) band saws for ridiculously little money.  A few years ago the company I worked for bought a fully functioning Do-All band saw with blade welding capabilities for $400.00.  It cost more than that to hire a rigger to deliver it.  It was also too tall for my shop and too heavy to carry in.

There is a sudden jump from woodworking band saws and machine shop band saws.  The machine shop saws are about twice as beefy and (probably) 3 to 4 times heavier.  Surprisingly the used metal working band saws are generally cheaper than the used woodworking band saws.  The saw at our shop had about a 12” throat.  So ripping widths would be limited.  And no real fence, but it had T-slots to mount almost anything to the table.
 
Ooh, I thought "TS" in the opening post meant "TauchSäge" and was confused. But it's used for tablesaw. Now I get it  [tongue]

Yeah, full sheets... I don't use a table saw for that. Would need a huge saw for that anyway. Cutting quarter sheets along the short (610mm) side; sure. But that's about it.

The stock MFT won't work with full sheets either. But you can DIY a bigger one, put multiple next to each other etc. etc.
 
dashboardpws said:
Dash-Board® products allow the use of track saws to replace a majority of tasks (not all) traditionally accomplished with a table saw, including narrow rips, safely and very accurately.

Rob beat me to it, I work without a table saw and the Dashboard PWS makes thin rips and accurate repeatable cuts. Once you’ve figured out work flows and processes with the system it can be efficient. There is a learning curve, but I’ve found it to be better than I expected.(I expected a lot from this unit for the price, it’s more than delivered)
 
How did this thread go from MFT va Tablesaw to Kapex? I split off the Kapex parts of this thread into its own thread.

P.Halle - Moderator
 
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There're tasks that the tracksaw is ill-equipped to do (i.e. relatively much harder to do) compared to a table saw, such as these:

1) Cutting V-grooves
2) Cutting bevels like those on a cabinet door
3) Cutting dadoes
4) Cutting various joints like T&G, dovetails etc.
5) Cutting circles.

But a table saw can't handle plunge cuts for a kitchen sink either!
Ultimately, the one thing it cannot do is cove cuts. You cannot get the blade skewed to the line of travel.
Although some people have issues with making coves, with a table saw too, it is very do-able.
I've done it dozens of times.
Most of those others would require some kind of jig or fixture, but they can be done.
The circle is probably the hardest, of this list. Turning the part, under that track, would be a bit of a friction problem.
Two people might make it easier, one moving the part and the other on the saw.
 
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