MFT wear and tear repair

[Mavrik]

I've had my MFT 1080 many years and the cutting slot has endured the inevitable scarring from the odd error.
It would be good to clean it up.
Not so much for cosmetic reasons, but rather to have a clear indication of the cutting line as well as ensure proper support beneath the cut.

What is the best method for repair?
Fill the mdf with some variant of wood filler?
Or rout a clean cavity and attempt some amateur "inlay"?

 

[Dane]

Bondo or Durham's Water Putty.  My MFT is probably more Durham's than MDF at this point...

 

[GarryMartin]

If you search for "MFT repair" you'll find a few threads covering this. Bondo (or equivalent) seems to be a popular choice.

Have you flipped it yet? Turning it over would give you a clean surface, whether you fill the existing surface or not.

Be careful you haven't cut too far through and affected the structural integrity though.

 

[chrismorrow]

I tape off either side of the area needing repair using masking tape.  I then fill the slot with Bondo and scrape it flush with a putty knife.  I immediately remove the tape and let the Bondo dry/harden.  Once it is set, I sand it flush with the RO 125.  I also use the sanding as an opportunity to remove other stains and drips from the MFT.  Great way to get it back in great looking condition.  Then, cut a new groove with your saw.  Done.

 

[chrismorrow]

Here's a great video...

 

[Mavrik]

Thanks.
I will attempt to find the equivalent of Bondo or Durham's in South Africa.  I have already flipped it. The other side was much worse. Hehe

 

[Birdhunter]

I use a two-part wood filler epoxy masking off the areas I don't need to fill. I have not tried Bondo.

 

[Stone Message]

How about routing a 10 mm or 15 mm channel over the cut path and glue in a piece of solid wood. It would be better than tons of filler, particularly if there is any uncertainty about the effects of the dust created when the filler is machined.

Peter

 

[sancho57]

I something like that before I just screw the wood to the MFT out side the cutting area used it then swapped itout as needed.

 

[tdwilli1]

I like that! Replaceable insert! Counter sunk head and bang you replace it easily.

Tim

I something like that before I just screw the wood to the MFT out side the cutting area used it then swapped itout as needed.

 

[Carl Prentiss]

I use a two-part wood filler epoxy masking off the areas I don't need to fill. I have not tried Bondo.

I've thought of using epoxy but was unsure if it would be unnecessarily abrasive on the saw blade. Do you think it's more abrasive than Bondo?

 

[sancho57]

I like that! Replaceable insert! Counter sunk head and bang you replace it easily.

Tim

I something like that before I just screw the wood to the MFT out side the cutting area used it then swapped itout as needed.

It's easy to do I used a dovetail bit to dovetail the edges of the insert and MFT to prevent movement to

 

[Laminator]

Bondo is easy, fast, and cost effective being that I always have it with me.  I don't think you can find anything easier.

 

[Mavrik]

I've done the filler type thing o the cutting slot. Which has worked fabulously.  But it's bright white. Would be nice if it were mdf colour.

 

[grbmds]

I noticed that there is one small part of the cut in the MFT where I do most of my cutting that is through the MDF. It's about 3" - 4" long. Is that something that can be repaired? It's not currently affecting the cuts as far as I can tell. However, when I decide to flip the table over it might cause a problem.

 

[Stone Message]

I noticed that there is one small part of the cut in the MFT where I do most of my cutting that is through the MDF. It's about 3" - 4" long. Is that something that can be repaired? It's not currently affecting the cuts as far as I can tell. However, when I decide to flip the table over it might cause a problem.

Can you find or make a slither of wood the same thickness (kerf size) and glue it in. Then clean off flush, both sides, when done.

Peter

 

[grbmds]

I noticed that there is one small part of the cut in the MFT where I do most of my cutting that is through the MDF. It's about 3" - 4" long. Is that something that can be repaired? It's not currently affecting the cuts as far as I can tell. However, when I decide to flip the table over it might cause a problem.

Possibly that can be my first project in a couple of months when I retire. Sound like project which takes a little patience and time and I don't have much time at least right now. I assume it would be best to use hardwood like maple. Or would it be better to use higher density MDF? (I realize it would have been better not to do it all but I was new at using the MFT and forgot to change the depth on the saw when I cut thinner wood.)

Can you find or make a slither of wood the same thickness (kerf size) and glue it in. Then clean off flush, both sides, when done.

Peter

 

[Stone Message]

A small slice 3 to 4 inches long is no big deal in an MFT3 sized piece of MDF. You could use a slither of MDF and it will work really well - it will absorb a lot of glue and be very strong. It would only take a couple of minutes as it does not need to be an absolutely perfect fit for length. Just concentrate on getting the thickness as close as possible.

Good luck.

Peter

 

[jools]

My MFT top was looking a bit tatty again and with a lot of veneered mdf to cut I did a quick repair. Two pack, buzz over with the ro150 and a wipe of oil. Took 1/2 an hour mostly drinking a cuppa whilst the two pack went off [big grin]. Mistake with a router and zobo bits clearly visible. If the dog holes are fouled I run a 20mm drill bit through from underneath.
Jools

 

[bkharman]

My MFT top was looking a bit tatty again and with a lot of veneered mdf to cut I did a quick repair. Two pack, buzz over with the ro150 and a wipe of oil. Took 1/2 an hour mostly drinking a cuppa whilst the two pack went off [big grin]. Mistake with a router and zobo bits clearly visible. If the dog holes are fouled I run a 20mm drill bit through from underneath.
Jools

I like that look. Very 50's Art Deco!!

Cheers. Bryan.