Milwaukee Wireless Dust Control Adapter & Remote Kit - Up in *Smoke*

[TinyShop]

Picked up one of these:
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/0950-20

...on sale back in March to control my large HEPA vac and honestly don't know how I survived without it. That is, until yesterday when something internal in the controller got hot enough to start to melt the plastic at the base of one of the two blades of the three prong plug and the device promptly stopped working. The failed unit is now on its way back to Milwaukee using the company's free mail-in e-service so we'll see what the excuse is. But less than three months of daily use ending in melted plastic doesn't bode well. Buyer beware.   

 

[ChuckM]

If I'm not mistaken, this can do the same job at less than 1/5 of the cost:
https://www.amazon.ca/HBN-Resistant...8&psc=1&mcid=3de0f1eb07c23ce6b4da8badeebad059

Rated for 15A, I use that kind of remote to control my air filtration systems.

 

[TinyShop]

[member=57948]ChuckS[/member] - my understanding from going down the remote control rabbit hole three'ish years ago was that these inexpensive remotes (like Fastcap's version for instance) were not (at least then) capable of handling the peak loads of larger extractors (~>1200 watts). I was provided one of Fastcap's at cost back then (which I use with my corded CT-SYS) and it has worked fine ever since - no problems. Based on the draw limitations that were common among all the remotes I surveyed back then I waited for a name brand version to be released - particularly one that could make the claim that Milwaukee's does (namely, "works with all types of shop vacs"). Perhaps I should have conducted a new survey of the current options in the inexpensive category since now they appear to be rated to handle higher loads. If the replacement Milwaukee one that shows up fails again I'll demand my money back and thereafter have a go with one like you linked to. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[Michael Kellough]

I’ve been using these inexpensive remote power switches for years. I have one for each vac and also use one for my Jet 1-1/2 hp dust collector. None have failed.

 

[jeh]

Would a 20-amp auto switch outlet work better in terms of being able to handle the startup surge? A quick search on Amazon did not yield any 20-amp 120v models, but did find a 20-amp 220v. Some are more industrial looking than others. Take a look at iVac as their products are made for power tools. They have 15-amp and 20-amp models at 115v and others at 240v. I would guess they are pricier than some might look at, but the definitely have substantial relays than take the startup surge.

20-amp at 115v
https://shop.ivacswitch.com/collections/ivac-control-modules/products/ivac-pro-remote-switch

*Ignore the voltage variations of 115v/120v and 220v/240v. I'm just copying what is in the description. They should all work.

 

[ChuckM]

I’ve been using these inexpensive remote power switches for years. I have one for each vac and also use one for my Jet 1-1/2 hp dust collector. None have failed.

That one is similar to the one I linked to in terms of spec. I've used them for the air filtration system and CT15 for over 4 years now, with no issues, too.

 

[ChuckM]

[member=57948]ChuckS[/member] - my understanding from going down the remote control rabbit hole three'ish years ago was that these inexpensive remotes (like Fastcap's version for instance) were not (at least then) capable of handling the peak loads of larger extractors (~>1200 watts). Snip.

I have had no experience with the Fastcap control, but am happy with the Amazon one. 15amp and 110V should cater for up to 1,800 W.

From the product description:
"Safe and reliable: outlets will remain off after a power outage to save energy and protect your appliances. Ratings: 125V, 15A/1875W resistive, 5A/625W tungsten, 1/2 hp. Operating Temperature of -15-+55 ℃/5 to +131 Fahrenheit"

 

[mino]

It is trivial to make a remote switch like this as far as the power electronics side goes. High school level trivial - when one has the time to bother.

So any that burns up like this is a clear indication of a no-safety design in addition of using under-specced components. The maker did not bother. As in at all. Great for a device meant for explosive environment usage .. would not be surprised if it was based on a cheap power mosfet instead of a proper relay .. A relay design would fail by not turning on or not turning off, not by burning up.

Considering that even someone like MW does not bother with the basics, looking for a "20A rated" one is IMO useless. This seems to be a lottery. A properly made 10A one will likely be fine while a 20A junk version will not make it .. no way to tell unless you take it apart and check the scheme/components in use.

Instead I would look for a reputable power management devices vendor who makes other similar-type devices for industrial use.

As for "startup currents" excuse .. a common 15A fuse is specced to allow up to 5x (75A) peak load. Any remote relay like this must be made to allow for that. Simple as that. OR it must include an internal fuse/breaker of a lower spec. Neither was apparently the case here.

Sorry for the negative view.

...
From the product description:
"Safe and reliable: outlets will remain off after a power outage to save energy and protect your appliances. Ratings: 125V, 15A/1875W resistive, 5A/625W tungsten, 1/2 hp. Operating Temperature of -15-+55 ℃/5 to +131 Fahrenheit"

Careful there - these folks are sleazy - in that description the rating for "motor use" is only 5A (!) - it is hidden behind the "tungsten" rating.

Those 15A are only for load without transients - "resistive" loads are things like a space heater. Were your shop to burn up due to this, the insurance company would not give you a penny, shall they find out ..

 

[Birdhunter]

I've been using X10 220v switches for years but keeping spares on the shelf as the contacts tend to fail due (I think) to starting surge current. I have two Oneida 1.5HP collectors.

I talked with the rep at IVAC about their products. He recommended their IVAC Pro Contactor. It has a device that slaps two large contacts together. The contractor is triggered by the IVAC Pro switch which, in turn, has a remote.

IVAC strongly recommends having a licensed electrician install the unit. Since the unit involves 220v, the recommendation is probably correct. The unit comes with all the odds and ends the installation requires plus excellent instructions.

The total cost was significant, but the switches will probably outlast me.

 

[ChuckM]

I hired an electrician to install a 220V outlet in my shop for a heater. I did install two 20A wall outlets for the same shop myself, after observing how he completed the 220V circuit.