Miter saw recommendations (other than Kapex)

Naildrivingman said:
waho6o9 said:
1L 300
$1,394.00
SKU: 93121700

Omga has a cost effective one as well, it's 230 volts.https://omgainc.com/product_detail.php?cid=2&scid=&sku=93121700

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I’ve researched as much as I could online. The two starter models seem like exactly what would suit my utility needs.  Unfortunately, the power supply can’t work well for a portable saw. I plan on contacting the company and inquire about a 120V machine.  One can hope.

You can also consider Elumatic(Germany) or Yilmaz (Turkey). both good saw, but I think Yilmaz may not be as good as Omga or Elumatic in terms of quality.
 
I have the Dewalt 780.  It is a workhorse, lots of power, and the fence is square to the blade.  Though the dust extraction isn't as good as the Kapex, it can cut as nicely as anything else with a good blade installed. 
 
Naildrivingman said:
I own a Kapex and I am pleased with it, so this is not intended to be an anti-Kapex thread.

I am interested in what others are buying for general purpose utility miter saws. Although I love my Kapex, it is for trimming only. I can’t justify putting it through the rigors of utility work, knowing that that the constant loading unloading may compromise the accuracy. Additionally I can’t justify the expense of another Kapex for utility work.

Previously I have owned Hitachi and currently my utility saw is a Makita (both 10”).  The Hitachi was a fine utility saw (unfortunately it was stolen), but the Makita has not proven to be so.

I’m interested in brand and model reviews from others.  What works, what doesn’t.  What’s weak, what’s not. Oddly, I am considering the 15” miter only Hitachi, but I would be unable to bevel stock wider than 4 3/4” with that saw.  I am not opposed to a one way bevel either.  I do think I would like to stay away from a slide saw for utility work.

Thanks.

No offence meant but, I cannot see the logic in buying an expensive saw, and being worried about using it for utility work, in case the accuracy is compromised?

I am currently mulling over a new miter saw, and I really do want to buy a Kapex 120. I’m only hesitating because of the doubt I have after hearing first hand and reading of a few of them failing.
If I do make the leap of faith, the saw will get well looked after but, used in all of it’s capacity.

Most of my tools apart from the workshop stuff, see site work daily, and are none the worse for the experience.

Just a thought but, I’d use the saw you have, and spend the money on something else.
According to Festool, the 120 is more than capable, and very durable for all the purposes it was designed for?

Unless if course you have the new toy tool urge?  [tongue] ;)
 
Skilsaw is introducing a worm gear miter saw that looks quite promising.

Here is as review on it. Skilsaw

Vijay
 
Why not an HK?  I use my for everything from framing to fine trim carpentry.  I keep 18 and 36 tooth blades for cross cutting as well as a panther blade for ripping. 

We used my HKC55 to install these beams last year.  The HK allowed us to bring the tool to the work.  Can you imagine trying to wrestle those beasts on a miter box?

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I have  the  makita LS1013.
Still the only  saw  in the world  that  is spring loaded  to return  the slider  rails  back  to the rear.
I just  love it when I remove the saw from the van, mount it on the stand, release  the locking knob  and it  automatically  slides back, ready for the first cut of the day. No other saw comes close.
The closest  design  is  by Milwaukee.  The rear ward  protruding  sliders  has never bothered me.
Ease  of use is most important  and the ls1013  takes some beating  imo.
Milwaukee has made a good decision  in keeping with  this  slider  design  mounted in the base.
The  Milwaukee M18 FUEL™ 254 MM MITRE  would be my first choice to replace the LS1013.
 
For years I had a non slider Ridgid 12" miter saw.  I sold it last year and had wanted a slider for some time due to the things I use it for which is mostly general carpentry.  Many times this necessitates being able to cut wide stuff on angles.  I recently picked up the latest Ridgid 12" slider and mobile base for just around $600...for both.  It has the LED cut line light which is great.  I just used it over the weekend to add some 2x6 angled deck supports that the previous owner of the house left out, leaving the second story deck a bit wiggly.  For my needs, it is exactly what I wanted, allowing me to cut 45's on 2x6's without issue.  Further, Ridgid has a lifetime warranty on most of their products.  Granted, this is not a precision saw, but it is the right saw for me.
 
I owned an Hitachi 12" DCSM with laser and digital readout. It was excellent, but the dust collection was bad. I got rid of it when I went to the TS55 and MFT combo which, for straight cuts and dust collection, can't be beat. I now have no need for a miter saw but, if I were develop a need, it would the Kapex. I've used the Kapex and it just can't be beat for accuracy and ease of use, and the dust collection is the best. As for failures, do people on this forum believe that other companies don't have failures also? I know they do. If anything, Festool does themselves a disservice by even trying to address the issue on the FOG. Other companies wouldn't even bother. They'd just do some behind the scenes work (maybe) and then come out with a new version.
 
The DeWalt DW 716 XPS has about the best capacities in a 12" non slider. They usually need some tuning out of the box but once dialed in it's a stout accurate saw for job site use. Vertical capacity against the fence is about the best in class for cutting tall base or big crown nested. The castings can be a bit rough and quality seems to vary from saw to saw. 
 
gunnyr said:
Why not an HK?  I use my for everything from framing to fine trim carpentry.  I keep 18 and 36 tooth blades for cross cutting as well as a panther blade for ripping. 

We used my HKC55 to install these beams last year.  The HK allowed us to bring the tool to the work.  Can you imagine trying to wrestle those beasts on a miter box?

[attachimg=1]

This is the advice I have been looking for......
 
Vanhalo said:
gunnyr said:
Why not an HK?  I use my for everything from framing to fine trim carpentry.  I keep 18 and 36 tooth blades for cross cutting as well as a panther blade for ripping. 

We used my HKC55 to install these beams last year.  The HK allowed us to bring the tool to the work.  Can you imagine trying to wrestle those beasts on a miter box?

[attachimg=1]

This is the advice I have been looking for......

The HK IS an excellent saw - but I'm not going to use it to cut 40 deck boards in a hurry, nor am I going to use it to make fine cuts in narrow mouldings. I use my HK to rip in the field, crosscut wide pieces, do a myriad of irregular cuts, etc. But it does NOT replace a miter saw.
 
For Miter Saw you have a ton of options just depends on your preferences and funds.  I have a Bosch 12” Glide because of space savings, Delta Cruzer similar concept.
 
I go cheap on the miter saw. 12” double compound Dewalt with an upgrade Freud combo blade. Before that I had a Hitachi for 16 years which got sold on CL for $75. It still ran. I get solid results with the Dewalt. It’s a decent saw, it doesn’t shine in any categories except price. It’s a value saw.
 
Can anyone confirm the new Makitas can cut 5.25 base standing up.  I had an older model not sure of the exact # but it was a 12" slider and it would not cut 5.25 standing up.  That was a deal breaker for me I also had trouble with the detent sticking and being fiddly not locking in positively or securely. So, I sold it and bought the Dewalt 779 its a solid saw especially for the money.  If you want or need the cut line light get the 780 same saw.  Better cut capacity and strong positive detents.  With a good blade its a workhorse.  The Dewalt mitersaw stand however is complete junk do not buy it. 
 
I use a 1219 in the shop. I think it's capacity is 6.5" or so. This is a 6" piece of 1/2" mdf. I cut base on the flat,  but this works for the guys that like to cut upright.
aceb2d401859c84250b4c1cd2d87a7f9.jpg


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My Dewalt 12" saw is rather old, but still accurate.  I chose it (and would choose the current model) for the same reasons.  The angle index is a stamping which is a highly repeatable item in manufacturing. 

Most of the other saws had the index in "as cast" detents in the aluminum chassis.  That is not nearly as repeatable unless there is after casting machining done. 

Also the adjustment for the miter index is just loosening three screws and adjusting (though getting the index nudged exactly where you want it can take several tries.

In the image below he is loosening one of the three screws.  One other one is seen at the far right.  The third one is out of the image area.  That stamped plate is the indexing plate.  I have found it to be very accurate. 

Adjusting it took an unreasonable amount of time (about an hour) because I kept over-shooting the mark when making the adjustment.  Eventually, I got it exactly right. 

DeWALT-DWS780-adjust-the-detent-plate.jpg
 
Dan Rush said:
I use a 1219 in the shop. I think it's capacity is 6.5" or so. This is a 6" piece of 1/2" mdf. I cut base on the flat,  but this works for the guys that like to cut upright.
aceb2d401859c84250b4c1cd2d87a7f9.jpg


Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

Thanks Dan,  Glad to see Makita fixed that.  It always irked me.  I do like the new makitas and thought about one for the shop I like the space saving feature of the rails its the biggest selling feature for me but I just dont have the room for a permanent shop saw.
 
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