Mitered Dominoe Question

[Christophl]

[attachimg=3][attachimg=4][attachimg=2]
[attachimg=1]After a day of so many attempts, I was able to achieve this (the end one got screwed up).  However, looks like I'm off 1/8" and don't know why (see last photo).  Any ideas?
((For some reason, uploading in "inline full size image", but uploads them as downloadable...sorry)

 

[ChuckM]

I couldn't open any of the downloaded images, even with different programs.

To attach files to this Forum, the file size needs to be small. Try compressing yours to under 0.5MB per file before uploading them.

 

[Christophl]

Let’s try this way

 

[ChuckM]

Hi Chris,

They showed up!

The spacing between the rows didn't seem right to me. If you follow the one third guideline, the top row should be apart from the other row by at least the thickness of the dominoes used. Use shorter dominoes for the top row if necessary.

How wide is the table? Maybe you can cut fewer mortises on each row since it's not end-grain to end-grain (edge-grain, right?).

 

[Christophl]

Morning Chuck   That second row is shortened already to 30 mm, say is a 20 mm domino going to be adequate?  The table's end widths is 17" w and 11" w.  My most made error seemed to be not straight mortises, which is amazing given that I feel like I"m holding the 700XL's fence really tightly up against the wood already. 
"The DF is deceivingly an easy machine to master".....NO truer words have ever been spoken!! lol

 

[ChuckM]

I didn't know yours is a DF700. I find the DF500 easier to align precisely and mortise without the risk of movement on narrow registration surfaces. When you mortise the actual pieces, the registration surface for the fence should be much larger, (than your mock samples) and you should get better results.

Since it's edge-grain to edge-grain, the second row of dominoes is more to deal with the racking issue, so 20mm should still be good enough. Alternatively, you can keep the 30mm for the second row, but space the dominoes on the second row in between (not directly above) the dominoes on the first row (the one closest to the inside edge).

On the 17" piece, I'd put about 5 to 6 dominoes on each row; about 3 or 4 on the 11" piece.

 

[Christophl]

That totally makes sense regarding a larger work surface.  I hope it helps lol
And “ah” that racking issue again . Again makes sense now that you pointed it out.  Also, thanks for the suggested number of dominoes. That also really helps!  I really can’t thank you enough Chuck for all the help!

 

[ChuckM]

Just sharing what I know (some from my past mistakes [big grin]). Have fun with the new toy!

 

[Christophl]

Thanks again Chuck!

 

[Christophl]

I jointed and planed a 2 x 6.  Near perfect, missed the last one strangely I’m starting to feel much better and I had to show you some positive results lol

 

[ChuckM]

Finally! And congrats. You're now officially a Full Member of the prestigious Domino Joiner club. [big grin] (Owning a DF but not really using it qualifies one as an Associate Member. [tongue])

When you do the actual pieces, make sure you double check the depth setting before you plunge the second row of mortises which are shallower (30mm?). When doing critical, one-take-only mortises, I either put a small tape or mark something on the wood to remind me to change/check the depth setting.

 

[Christophl]

[big grin]  Too funny!!!  Full member...Wow!!    Sure, it only took about 15' of 2x6's lol!  Marking an 'R' really helped orient the pieces correctly btw!

Good idea Chuck about marking the starting layout because the second row I had to use the first stop, and then switch to the third stop to get them to be placed in between the first row...and yes, 30mm worked.

But I have to tell you, I'm still really anxious about actually doing the work on the Mango and Wenge  :

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.
But I have to tell you, I'm still really anxious about actually doing the work on the Mango and Wenge  :

I know your feeling. Good news is that as long as it isn't a blow out, you can plug and glue one or two mistakes with a domino, and re do the one(s) after the glue is cured. If it's a blow out, the fix can be very time-consuming to hide the mistake.

 

[Christophl]

Oh!  I hadn't realized/thought of being able to plug a misaligned mortise...outstanding to learn!

I did a mock up yesterday using the continuous grain Mango on the 17" end and Wenge for the 11" end...I really didn't like it as much as I thought I would  :  I have the Mango continuous grain for the 11" end (after having to cut the slab into two pieces), but it's 1/16" thinner than the other two pieces (had to plane thinner to get rid of bow).  It looks SO much better using Mango for both legs.  So Chuck, is there a way I could add a 1/16" piece of Wenge to the thinner piece of Mango where the miter will be.  So I'd have a thin line of Wenge in the mitered joint which I think won't look too bad.  Is this possible...or any other ideas so I can use continuous grain for both feet?? 

 

[ChuckM]

To avoid giving you the incorrect info, could you please sketch out what you want to do?

 

[Christophl]

Something like this

 

[ChuckM]

Wouldn't it be simpler to run all the other thicker boards down by 1/16" to bring everything to the same thickness?

 

[Christophl]

Yes lol but I was trying to avoid another $75 planing fee. But I think I’ll go ahead and go that route. Thanks for reinforcing my initial thought.

 

[ChuckM]

Ohhh. You don't have a thickness planer.

 

[Christophl]

Only 13” Dewalt 735. I’ve got to use commercial biz for anything wider. Just really sad that did this board with 2 inches when I started. Just painful.