Mixed feelings with the Trion

[stairman]

The Trion Jigsaws don't seem to get much attention,  and in my opinion, they rank right up there as some of the most useful,  technologically superior Festools of the whole lot.
 
Simply reading about the tools,  -before ever picking one up and trying it,  I was anxious to get my hands on one,  and as soon as I did,  the first thing I tried to cut was some jigsaw puzzle test pieces from 4/4 hard maple.  -true to the letter, the blade doesn't veer from dead-on perpendicular!  I swear someone at festool must be "blessing" these tools with a magic wand or something!

as I have been using mine to earn a living the past couple months now,  I have found one issue with my enchanted Trion...  I have a hard time sighting the blade (within the dust shroud)  Even though it is CRYSTAL CLEAR, I find it nearly impossible to focus on the blade,  and the alternative of removing the dust collection shroud...  -well,  who would want to do that!

Have any of you found any techniques for establishing solid visual control over these saws  -without disabling the phenomenal dust collection

Happy Holidays!

 

[Holzhacker]

Yeah sighting the blade along a cut line is rough with the shroud on. The visuals on the Trion are its big shortcoming. I compensate for it in two ways. Most of the time I set one of my flashlights on the work surface for illumination and that takes care of it. I have also used the guiderail adapter and rail. I would probably use this method more if I could remember to bring a rail, clamps and adapter with more often.
I recently had a chance to check out the new Carvex with the light. The light definitely solves the problem with the shroud and seeing a cut line. I also played with the trigger, light ON/OFF, speed control, etc. I couldn't notice anything that seemed worrisome, but then again I'm not an epileptic. So if that's the reason the Carves isn't here I guess I would notice it anyway.

 

[stairman]

you just gave me an idea...  I am going to investigate adding some LEDs to my Trion  (the possibly to some other tools)

by the way,  what's the word on the Carvex line?  why weren't they released here? 

 

[Frank-Jan]

...  and the alternative of removing the dust collection shroud...  -well,  who would want to do that!

Well, that would be me,   I always use my trion without the DC and the shroud (the DC channels work a bit like a blower that way, and the little dust doesn't bother me) In the cases I did want the dustcollection, I found it clogged way too easily.

Have any of you found any techniques for establishing solid visual control over these saws  -without disabling the phenomenal dust collection

Check out this thread: link

Another method to increase visual control would be to use the saw from underneath the material to be cut.

 

[MrToolJunkie]

Paul Marcel did a great video of his technique of pulling the jigsaw along the cut line as opposed to pushing...

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-reviews/review-of-festool-ps300-trion-jigsaw-(561097)/

Scot

 

[ccarrolladams]

I have used hand operated jig saws from underneath the work since they were first marketed in the USA prior to 1950.

I also bought my first Trion PS 300 with the barrel grip when they went on sale in the USA. Never has a jig saw lasted so long for me.

Used under the work dust collection is far more effective. My preference is to make the cut coming towards me, so as needed I move around the work. I support the saw using the knob with my left hand. My right hand guides the direction and pulls the saw along.

 

[Jonhilgen]

A). My trion does not cut perpendicular, especially if I have to go back to cut closer to a line.  More than a little disappointed in it.

B). I don't waste my time with the dust shroud.  A jigsaw doesn't make so much dust as to worry me abouty health.

Other than that, its an ok jigsaw.

Jon

 

[mastercabman]

A). My trion does not cut perpendicular, especially if I have to go back to cut closer to a line.  More than a little disappointed in it.

B). I don't waste my time with the dust shroud.  A jigsaw doesn't make so much dust as to worry me abouty health.

Other than that, its an ok jigsaw.

Jon

Jon,what blade do you use? I also did not get perpendicular cut until i started to use the S75/4FS.
And i agree with DC,I don't use it.But i do miss the dust blower on my old Bosch.

 

[Jonhilgen]

I'll have to dig out my jigsaw from my truck...no bedslide!  [crying]

Got the blade assortment a while back, but not sure which blade is my go to. 

Jon

 

[marrt]

My Trion doesn't cut close to perpendicular ether.  Frankly, I think I may be using a blade that's too narrow.  I'm thinking a wider blade may be stiffer and take curves better.  I really haven't had enough time to experiment with it.

 

[nehardwoodfloors]

I have also heard that people will use a black marker to point out the line in the splinter guard.

 

[tbellemare]

It's critical to use the correct blade and adjust the blade guides properly to ensure perpendicular cuts.

There are a few threads here that suggest how to adjust the blade guides and though they will work, there is one method that requires the least user "touch"...

• install the blade you will use
• pull the blade all the way out from the saw (full downward stroke) - I suggest a leather glove for this
• set the saw to maximum orbit
• push the blade fully forward (it will completely disengage from the blade quides)
• tighten the blade guides while holding the blade forward until the blade can't return to rest between the guides (the blade guides are trapping the blade in the forward position)
• loosen the blade guides slowly until the blade JUST pivots back and is nestled between the blade guides

Now your blade guides are set so that the blade "glides in the guides" and is properly supported from lateral movement. This method is similar to others but doesn't require any judgement or finesse. The surface of the blade will likely be removed with use but the blade shouldn't "burn". If your blade begins to look purple, it's probably too tight and you should consider running back through the previously described procedure.

After you do the procedure twice, it will be real easy and you will not think much about it.

Merry Christmas,

Tom

 

[semenza]

I cut a vertical slot (used a Dremel) about a 1/4" wide in the front center of the dust shroud. While reducing the DC a bit , it also gives a better view of the blade and line.

I have not tried........... but some users wipe the  inside of the shroud with an anti-static close dryer sheet  to help prevent dust from sticking to the inside of the shroud.

Seth

 

[woodguy7]

Can't comment on the trion as I only had one for 2 weeks then sold it to get the Carvex.  What a mistake that was !  It has been back to Festool to get repaired but it is back as bad as ever.  Used it the other day, the cut was so squint & sparks coming from the blade guide. Horrible jigsaw to use & now I always go for my old Makita.  I wouldn't be surprised if the strobe light has nothing to do with it being held back in NA.  My guess it's more likely to be the blade guide design.  It's a real turkey & the only Festool purchase I wish I never made !

Woodguy.

 

[ajones]

I would be asking for my money back

 

[CDM]

As a new Trion user I will second the comments from Tom Bellemare and ccarrolladams.  In my case, I'm a novice hobbiest without dedicated workshop space.  I've done a lot of hand sawing with coping saws for curved parts, and wanted to move on to something faster, easier, and more lung-safe.  I opted for a PS300 specifically because I wanted to try both top-side and under-side cutting.

On my first project I used it to cut small curved parts in 4/4 ash, with some practice in oak, ash, maple, and pine.  The blade I used was the thinner S50/1.4K.  The first practice cuts in pine were like a hot knife and butter.  When I moved to harder woods, I found that, cutting from the top, the cut tended to flare out at the bottom away from the direction of the curve.  Then I looked up the various ways of setting the blade guides.  Setting them properly turned out to make a big difference, as did not rushing through the cut.

Cutting from the top, I was getting a lot of small wood curls falling out the bottom of the kerf, and having some challenges staying on the marked curve arcs, so I tried cutting from the bottom.

This was immensely helpful.  So far I've worked mainly pushing away.  The barrel knob fits nicely in my left hand, and the rest of the saw chassis in my right, with the power switch right under my thumb.  I saw seated in a little rolling office chair, which I used to do when hand-sawing.  The small stock piece is clamped to a bench hook cantilevered out over the edge of my MFT/3 and itself clamped at the far end.  Sawing from beneath this way, I am able to illuminate the desired cut arc very well, and there are no obstructions to my view of the kerf.  The wood fragments that would have fallen to the floor when I was sawing from the top now fall into the shroud area where the DC picks them up.

I haven't tried underside sawing with the tool coming toward me, but probably will at some point in the future.

 

[rdesigns]

I cut a vertical slot (used a Dremel) about a 1/4" wide in the front center of the dust shroud. While reducing the DC a bit , it also gives a better view of the blade and line.

Seth

I did the same with mine when I had to cut 6/4 oak for rocking chair rockers.

When I first got my Trion, I found that the assembly that supports the carbide guides needs to be adjusted by loosening the screw that holds it to the body so as to keep the guides centered on the blade because blade widths vary. After that, the cut stayed perpendicular, even in thick hardwoods.

 

[tiralie]

Have any of you found any techniques for establishing solid visual control over these saws  -without disabling the phenomenal dust collection

I use the splinter guard and keep my line slightly to the left (waste is on the right) of the point on the splinter guard. I find this gets as close as I want (2-3mm) to get to any line leaving me enough to plane or sand to if I am fitting a cabinet or making a pattern for a router.
I really like the Trion (I hate cleaning jigsaw chips) but then again I was using a 20 year old Bosch before I bought the Festool.
Tim

 

[Jonhilgen]

It's critical to use the correct blade and adjust the blade guides properly to ensure perpendicular cuts.

There are a few threads here that suggest how to adjust the blade guides and though they will work, there is one method that requires the least user "touch"...

• install the blade you will use
• pull the blade all the way out from the saw (full downward stroke) - I suggest a leather glove for this
• set the saw to maximum orbit
• push the blade fully  (it will completely disengage from the blade quides)
• tighten the blade guides while holding the blade forward until the blade can't return to rest between the guides (the blade guides are trapping the blade in the forward position)
• loosen the blade guides slowly until the blade JUST pivots back and is nestled between the blade guides

Now your blade guides are set so that the blade "glides in the guides" and is properly supported from lateral movement. This method is similar to others but doesn't require any judgement or finesse. The surface of the blade will likely be removed with use but the blade shouldn't "burn". If your blade begins to look purple, it's probably too tight and you should consider running back through the previously described procedure.

After you do the procedure twice, it will be real easy and you will not think much about it.

Merry Christmas,

Tom

Tom, I really want to thank you for this succinct description regarding the blade guides.  Used this method and, voila, no sparks shooting from my Trion, and it actually cuts true.

I really like this saw now...

Jon

 

[tiralie]

Tom, I really want to thank you for this succinct description regarding the blade guides.  Used this method and, voila, no sparks shooting from my Trion, and it actually cuts true.

I really like this saw now...

Jon

Same here. [thumbs up]
Thanks
Tim