more parallel guides

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Here are some closer pics. A bit on the "heavy-duty" side but it was the size material that was on hand. (please overlook the rough edges and finish)

If anyone wants some specs I will be happy to provide.

John

Edit--If there is interest I would be willing to work on a slimmed-down version to be used in a "double" setup. They key element would be to find rules available to everyone in the same width.
 
I really like the idea of using the inexpensive HD T-squares as a base for a parallel guide system.  I've sketched up a version that will allow cutting parallel pieces from 7-1/4" to 58" in width (flipping the slotted bar end for end).  By applying the Starrett stick-on scale tape they can be calibrated for direct reading measurement.  I'll make the brackets and the slide stops of aluminum. and the scale lens of Lexan.  The brackets will attach to the guide rail using the Festool guide rail connectors.

EDIT: I changed the shape of the slide stops so that I can cut narrower strips (from 7-1/4" (185mm) to 58" (1475mm) parallel strips).  
 
RonWen....I'd really like to see what you come up with using the HD T Squares. 
 
RonWen said:
I really like the idea of using the inexpensive HD T-squares as a base for a parallel guide system.  I've sketched up a version that will allow cutting parallel pieces from 11" to 60" in width (flipping the slotted bar end for end).  By applying the Starrett stick-on scale tape they can be calibrated for direct reading measurement.  I'll make the brackets and the slide stops of aluminum. and the scale lens of Lexan.  The brackets will attach to the guide rail using the Festool guide rail connectors.
Looks great ,another thing you could think about adding would be an indexing pin of some sort at ,say .5" or 1" increments or .5 staggered on each side or somthing,where you would push a pin through the lexan into the track,take out any eyeball error....60" would be way too long for me,thinking of cabinet sides and such.Looking good...
 
I put self stick imperial tapes on top of the metric one's on my Parallel guides.  In doing so, I placed the tapes so they just touch the pointer reducing parallax error.  The thickness of the line on the tape is about equal to the gap in the end of the pointer.  Since it almost touches it's really easy to get very accurate parallel cuts.  I calibrated mine cutting 4 inch strips by 8 feet long.  Once calibrated, end to end, the cuts were withing .004 thousandths of  an inch when I set the pointers by eye and measured the cut pieces with a digital caliper.

The self stick tapes were made by Starret and cost about 4-5 dollars each at Hartville tool.
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Wayne,
The description at Hartville Tool says "1/16" graduations" -- I would like to find 1/32" graduations (or even 1/64") -- Does the tape that you used only have 1/16" grads?
Thanks,
Ron


(I'm also playing with making it a digital readout)
 
RonWen said:
I put self stick imperial tapes on top of the metric one's on my Parallel guides.  In doing so, I placed the tapes so they just touch the pointer reducing parallax error.  The thickness of the line on the tape is about equal to the gap in the end of the pointer.  Since it almost touches it's really easy to get very accurate parallel cuts.  I calibrated mine cutting 4 inch strips by 8 feet long.  Once calibrated, end to end, the cuts were withing .004 thousandths of  an inch when I set the pointers by eye and measured the cut pieces with a digital caliper.

The self stick tapes were made by Starret and cost about 4-5 dollars each at Hartville tool.

Wayne,
The description at Hartville Tool says "1/16" graduations" -- I would like to find 1/32" graduations (or even 1/64") -- Does the tape that you used only have 1/16" grads?
Thanks,
Ron


(I'm also playing with making it a digital readout)
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Ron,

I've thought about making it work with digital...maybe with the wixey digital set up for a table saw fence.  But I've never really come up with a workable Idea.  As for the tapes at Hartville Hardware,  they do have increments of 1/32 of an inch on the first 12 inches only and only on one edge.  After using it as is, I can't see the need for 32nd increments.  It is easy enough to split the lines by eye and be very accurate.  Besides the Festool pointer is as wide as the ink on the line and doesn't come to a distinct razor point.  So having a finer scale to line up to is a moot point.  AS it is, I have found it incredibly reliable and accurate.  If I were doing something really critical and expensive, I suppose it would make sense to do some test cuts on lesser expensive material first to be sure your dialed in and nothing had been knocked out of whack.  I only had a .004 thousanths difference over an 8 foot cut the first time I tried it with this set up.

Edit:  Ron, another thought I've been churning is to make a digital story stick that once calibrated, you could use it to set the stops on the on the parallel guides one at a time from one digital adjustable stick.  If  both guides would be set to the same story stick, and the parallel guides were accurately set up,  Theoretically you would get accurate and parallel cuts.  But as I mentioned before, it really works quite accurately with the stick on tapes and my eye.
 
Ron,
I've thought about making it work with digital...maybe with the wixey digital set up for a table saw fence.  But I've never really come up with a workable Idea.  As for the tapes at Hartville Hardware,  they do have increments of 1/32 of an inch on the first 12 inches only and only on one edge.  After using it as is, I can't see the need for 32nd increments.  It is easy enough to split the lines by eye and be very accurate.  Besides the Festool pointer is as wide as the ink on the line and doesn't come to a distinct razor point.  So having a finer scale to line up to is a moot point.  AS it is, I have found it incredibly reliable and accurate.  If I were doing something really critical and expensive, I suppose it would make sense to do some test cuts on lesser expensive material first to be sure your dialed in and nothing had been knocked out of whack.  I only had a .004 thousanths difference over an 8 foot cut the first time I tried it with this set up.
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Thanks Wayne.  I forgot you added it to the Festool parallel guide which does have a somewhat "clunky" pointer.  The setup that I intend will have a better "sight glass" without parallax error & could nicely zero in on 1/64" increments if the scales had them.  As you say, even with just 1/16" (or I'll probably use the metric scale for a bit finer resolution) you can compensate accordingly.   I guess there's no point in getting too carried away here... [smile]

EDIT:  I just looked at Lee Valley, they offer the Starrett R to L Imp./Metric tape which appears to be my best choice.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,43513,43517&p=32550

There's always the excellent Incra positive stop scales but they are just a little on the heavy side for what I want.
 
Ron,

When you order your tapes, I'd suggest setting your parallel guides  and looking at them the way your going to use them to make sure the edge of the tape what you want to use will be adjacent to the pointer.  It's not just a matter of left to right and right to left.  I learned the hard way. 
 
wnagle said:
Ron,

When you order your tapes, I'd suggest setting your parallel guides  and looking at them the way your going to use them to make sure the edge of the tape what you want to use will be adjacent to the pointer.  It's not just a matter of left to right and right to left.  I learned the hard way. 

Thanks, I thought about that -- I imagine that I'll stand with the guide rail & saw to my right and the scales & stock to my left so I'm thinking "right to left" tapes should be OK.  Using the Home Depot T-squares as the basis for this they are wide enough that I could place tapes in both directions on them.  Actually they are only slotted about 1/2 way so I think rather than cutting the slot almost the entire length (leaving ~2"-3" at each end to keep them joined I think that I'll drill & tap both ends and just swap ends when I need the longer range. 
 
I've finished my parallel guides that I made using two (2) Empire heavy duty adjustable T-squares that HD sells.  They will allow cutting from 7-1/4" (185mm) to 56-1/2" (1435mm) when you flip the ends attached to the guide rail.    I haven't yet adhered the Starrett stick-on tapes and I think that I'll also drill a few holes to attach Inca scales which will nicely ride on top of the T-square rail.
I've attached a Picassa look at them. http://picasaweb.google.com/ronwenner/RecentlyUpdated#
 
Are you guys still using your homemade parallel guides?  Just wondering if they have maintained the accuracy over prolonged use. 

Am finding the razor blade method of marking all my cuts to be a little cumbersome not to mention I am always double checking the measurements before I cut as well.  With something like you guys have come up with, I could just dial in the measurement and make the cut without worry...would probably "cut" my sawing time in half.
 
mikeneron said:
Are you guys still using your homemade parallel guides?  Just wondering if they have maintained the accuracy over prolonged use. 

Am finding the razor blade method of marking all my cuts to be a little cumbersome not to mention I am always double checking the measurements before I cut as well.  With something like you guys have come up with, I could just dial in the measurement and make the cut without worry...would probably "cut" my sawing time in half.

I haven't been using much ply in recent months (mostly lumber) and even less multiple-piece requirements so my guides have been hanging on the wall for months.  There really isn't much that would degrade the accuracy with extended use other than if they were banged around (bent?). 
The new Woodpecker's story stick is a good marking tool, far better than their first design.  http://www.woodpeck.com/storystickpro.html
 
terrystouf said:
Another take on parallel guides,inspired by some i saw here.11"-32" capacity.Started with 2 48" rulers,had a slot milled in them...I guess its only as good as your eye-balling to a line,will probably make an adjustable stick to increase accuracy.Would love guide with positive stop notches?

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Terry,

You wouldn't happen to have a detailed drawing of the wood brackets you made for your parallel guides would you? I have made a set of guides using Incra hardware and t brackets to connect to the guide rail but the wood version looks to be a better, cleaner and more accurate approach.

Thanks
Jack
 
Jack , I just saw your post ,so I'm probably too late here.. I do not have any detailed drawings ,  I just used some 3/4 thick maple , the bracket was 6" overall width , and about 4" deep , I think i started with one 12" piece , did the dado , then cut it in half : I was just making it up as I went ,If you study the track profile , you will see what needs to be done, dado until the bracket bottom lies flat with the track ,the front side of the dado(the track side) needs to be shortened to let the bracket down to the table (hope you follow , hard to explain) Let me know if you want more info if you haven't done this already, and Ill try to be more helpfull .
 
Terry,

Thanks for the info. I have had the chance to use the guides I made and really like them. Your earlier post provide inspiration. Thanks again.
 
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