Mortise and Tenon Cabinet Doors with Domino?

[leftistelf]

Just about to embark on a 55 door/drawer kitchen remodel using a shaker style design.

A question to the group:

Is it more hassle than its worth to use dominos in the corners?

I have a domino and a shaker cope and stick router bit set already...I just wasnt sure if its worth the effort...

I imagine I'd domino first and then use stop grooves for the panel, starting and stopping at the dominos.

Any thoughts?

 

[tjbnwi]

I have the Summerfield shaker bit set. Never used dominos with the bit set. Not sure with all the surface area the dominos are necessary.

Tom

 

[Nick C]

I concur. For this application the Domino--or any other supplemental joinery--is completely unnecessary.

 

[Tim Sproul]

For kitchen cabinet doors, cope and stick can be plenty strong enough.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Unless the doors are going to be large and carrying a lot of weight as in a glass panel, which I'm doubting, stick with the normal cope and stick profiles unless the dominos are for asthetics.  For large or heavy doors, better to use something like the new adjustable Freud rail and stile bits for making extended tenons on the rails.  Deepen the mortises for the extended tenons, except the outermost area and haunch the tenons and you should have no worries.

Passing this on from my experience, don't get carried away with the Domino and try to domino everything.  [wink]

 

[fshanno]

It's worth it for your own kitchen, you have to ask yourself how many times you intend to build your own cabinets.  If it is for a job show the owner the difference and if he's willing to pay then knock yourself out.  And for shaker with no inside profile you can end the panel slot in the mortise eliminating the visible cope.  Nice look that a customer may want once he sees it.