mounting drawer slides in shelf pin holes?

[jsabados]

Hi gang,

At 6:37 on the following video it seems that he is using a 5mm hole to mount the drawer slide.  I can't seem to find what screws he is using for this or for that matter, is he really using a 5mm shelf pin hole?  I'm sure if I understood German, I wouldn't have to ask this question!  If any of you are familiar with this setup, can you shed some light on it for me?  I like the idea of using my LR32 to route shelf pin holes the entire height of the base cabinet and then use the approach in this video to give me boat loads of flexibility as to where I may want to put my drawer slides.

I love all the great tips from the FOG so thanks!

Teil 03 "Chaostheorie" - Bau eines Wandschranks

 

[mtnsona]

They most likely are 5 mm screws, which can be purchased on line.

 

[bruegf]

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=30305&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PLA&gclid=CJepqJPqrK4CFe4AQAodD2VmOQ

 

[jsabados]

I saw these online but I thought I had read here somewhere that these weren't as snug a fit as one would like.  Maybe I am mistaken.

euroscrews

Thanks

 

[Kevin D.]

I saw these online but I thought I had read here somewhere that these weren't as snug a fit as one would like.  Maybe I am mistaken.

euroscrews

Thanks

I can see that can be a problem where someone may be using a hand drill to drill the holes, and possibly also related to what material they are drilling the holes in such as I'd suspect a melamine covered particle board would be prone to having imperfect holes as particle board has got poor internal quality.

I use those screws since I got my LR32 Festool system.  I am drilling my holes with the Festool router bit designed for it (491066) in my OF1400 router, and the holes come out crisp and clean, but I am only using in decent quality ply.  The screws fit nice and snug, and their head design is ideal for clearance purposes for slides.  I could see where even in some ply, if there is a void in the ply below the ply surface veneer, you could have a poor quality strength or loosening issue.  If that's the case for the odd hole, just drill another one to fasten using another hole in the slides, but that should seldom be a problem.  I can't comment on using the above OF1400 and Festool LR32 in particle board covered melamine as that building material is banned in my shop.  [wink]

http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=42000&cat=3,41306,41315

http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=56292&cat=3,41306

http://www.atlas-machinery.com/products/Festool-491066-Dowel-Drill-Bit-HW-5X30MM-Brad-PT-For-LR-32

Note Festool also has 5mm through hole bit as well for when an upright vertical will be sharing duty on both its surfaces (491064).

http://www.atlas-machinery.com/products.php?keywords=491064&and=1

 

[Brice Burrell]

I saw these online but I thought I had read here somewhere that these weren't as snug a fit as one would like.  Maybe I am mistaken.

euroscrews

Thanks

They work very well.  They're 5mm so they're are quite fat and have a course thread -they bit well.

 

[Brice Burrell]

I can see that can be a problem where someone may be using a hand drill to drill the holes, and possibly also related to what material they are drilling the holes in such as I'd suspect a melamine covered particle board would be prone to having imperfect holes as particle board has got poor internal quality.

I use those screws since I got my LR32 Festool system.  I am drilling my holes with the Festool router bit designed for it (491066) in my OF1400 router, and the holes come out crisp and clean, but I am only using in decent quality ply.  The screws fit nice and snug, and their head design is ideal for clearance purposes for slides.  I could see where even in some ply, if there is a void in the ply below the ply surface veneer, you could have a poor quality strength or loosening issue.  If that's the case for the odd hole, just drill another one to fasten using another hole in the slides, but that should seldom be a problem.  I can't comment on using the above OF1400 and Festool LR32 in particle board covered melamine as that building material is banned in my shop.  [wink]

http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=42000&cat=3,41306,41315

http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=56292&cat=3,41306

http://www.atlas-machinery.com/products/Festool-491066-Dowel-Drill-Bit-HW-5X30MM-Brad-PT-For-LR-32

Note Festool also has 5mm through hole bit as well for when an upright vertical will be sharing duty on both its surfaces (491064).

http://www.atlas-machinery.com/products.php?keywords=491064&and=1

Kevin, I also like this bit 3mm dowel bit for when I'm using regular screws for the slides.

 

[ccarrolladams]

Each manufacturer of cabinet hardware provides various quality of instruction information.

Not all mounting screws are intended for use in 5mm holes. For this reason Festool provides 3mm, flat bottom and through hole 5mm and 8mm bits.

Some months in my shop we build cabinets using hardware from 8 manufacturers. One trend I see increasingly is the use of 8mm hole into which inserts are places, so the actual screws can be adjusted often as needed without stripping.

 

[jsabados]

I was able to find some locally at Clyde Hardware here in Tucson but they only had the 10mm length.  I think that would be right for what I am using since the shelf pins holes are only about 3/8" deep anyway and 10mm is the only one that would fit without having to make different depth holes.  Either that or I could use the 13mm or the 14.5mm length since I am using 27/32 plywood.  I would then have to drill all the holes that deep and use shelf pins that have a collar so they wouldn't go in too deep.  The extra length screw would give extra strength also.

Kev - Thanks for the heads-up about the quality of wood.  I am using some AC plywood for garage cabinets and will watch out for voids.  My LR32 kit did come with the two different 5mm bits and the cup hinge bit so I am good to go.

ccarroladams - I had always assumed the holes were all 8mm since that is how I have seen the Blum drill setup; and is used with the plastic inserts.  I like the idea of not stripping the screws when moving them.  I guess once the drawer slide is installed using the 5mm holes, I would leave it alone so I wouldn't enlarge the hole from the screw threads if removed.  I probably wouldn't want to use that hole again if I changed my mind though.

Thanks for all the good tips.  They are very helpful.

Jim

 

[demuis]

Als earlier mentioned in Europe we use Euro screws. I always USe THE 6,3 mm screw in THE 5 mm hole. It has more grip ten à 5 mm screw in à 5 mm hole. Another avantage off THE bigger screw  is à bigger head Thatcher won't fall through THE pre drillend holes in THE sliders .

 

[jsabados]

Als earlier mentioned in Europe we use Euro screws. I always USe THE 6,3 mm screw in THE 5 mm hole. It has more grip ten à 5 mm screw in à 5 mm hole. Another avantage off THE bigger screw  is à bigger head Thatcher won't fall through THE pre drillend holes in THE sliders .

That's very good to know.  I was mulling over Brice and ccarolladams comments of using 3mm holes for the drawer slide mounts but that would have me drilling some 5mm for shelf pins and some 3mm for drawer slides.  That would preclude me from being able to change my mind as to where I want to put drawers vs. shelves.  If I use the 6.3mm screws then all my holes are 5mm and I have unlimited choices of where drawers and shelves go plus I get the advantage of better grip.  That seems like the best solution for me.

6.3mm euro screws

6.3mm ~ 1/4" so that's a bit funny that over there you are using imperial and over here I am trying to get a firm grip on the metric side of things!

Thanks!

 

[jsabados]

I checked some more on the 6.3mm euro screws and was a bit disappointed to find that the thread diameter on those is the same as on the 5mm euro screws.  The 6.3mm has a stated 7.5mm head diameter and the 5mm has a stated 7.2mm head diameter.  So, grip isn't going to be any better but maybe the screw wont pull through the slide.

I am going to experiment with the 5mm x 10.5mm euro screws I bought and see how that works.

 

[Kevin D.]

Als earlier mentioned in Europe we use Euro screws. I always USe THE 6,3 mm screw in THE 5 mm hole. It has more grip ten à 5 mm screw in à 5 mm hole. Another avantage off THE bigger screw  is à bigger head Thatcher won't fall through THE pre drillend holes in THE sliders .

What is a "Thatcher".  Is that simply the standardized name of the larger holes that my 5mm Euros don't fit in?

Also....

Never knew that there were larger diameter Euro screws intended for 5mm holes.  While at first I was thinking this is intended for use in MDF and particle board type boards for better strength, the previous link that was posted for them describes them as such, but also for hardwoods.  Hardwoods surprise me being listed as opposed to softwoods.  Is that a typo or correct you think?

Product description of 6.3mm screws from link below:

The US Futaba Euro screw is designed to fit 5mm system holes and to be used with European hardware. The Euro screw has a Blunt Type B point that allows maximum holding power in a pre-drilled hole. The aggressive deep thread design insures maximum holding power in MDF, Particle Board and Hardwoods.​

http://www.nbh-outlet.com/US_Futaba_6_3_x_10_5mm_Euro_Screw_Item_12012_p/12012.htm

I'm surprised Lee Valley doesn't carry them.  Sounds like they'd be useful.

 

[Wonderwino]

I've bought drawer slide screws from McFeely's in the past and they have great service:

http://www.mcfeelys.com/search/slide+screws

They have several lengths in the euro screws as well as #6 screws.  They call them 5mm, but that is the size hole it needs, not the outside diameter of the threads.