My Festool Table Saw Cabinet

[Cheese]

Very nice fabrication job!

Blade storage [thumbs up]

Lock miters [thumbs up]

 

[John Beauchamp]

Good function and looks too great job.

 

[butzla]

Jim, very cool build...I really like the way you organized your table saw accessories. Question, how are you liking the Veritas router plane? I've lots of cabinet builds coming up and a chisel and hammer are getting old.

The "miniature" router plane is great, albeit a bit small.  I have the small size as well.  I use it to finesse the fit of small hinges in boxes and humidors.  I don't have the large one but [member=28483]iamnothim[/member] is lovin his over on his Roubo build (reply #507).

 

[nclemmons]

Nice design.  Thanks for the detailed photos!

 

[Birdhunter]

I will do something like this under my Sawstop Industrial. Neat idea!

Question, you have a red Freud saw blade in the drawer. I somehow thought that "painted" blades didn't work with the Sawstop brake system.

You know for sure if the do?

 

[butzla]

As far as I know, it works.  I mean, I haven't done a real live test with a hot dog, but when I touch the blade while in standby mode, the red light illuminates.  The Freud Industrial blade is a great blade.  Far superior to any Forrest blade I've ever owned.  More than a few bucks cheaper too.  I recommend them highly.

 

[Bohdan]

Since the system relies on an electrical connection between the blade and the saw body I would not rely on an "accidental" contact with a painted blade and I would recommend removing the paint where the blade is clamped in the saw.

 

[butzla]

Since the system relies on an electrical connection between the blade and the saw body I would not rely on an "accidental" contact with a painted blade and I would recommend removing the paint where the blade is clamped in the saw.

I hear ya bohdan.  But I'm not worried about it.  The saw won't even turn on without conductivity

 

[butzla]

Very cool.

How do you like the Sawstop sliding table?  I've been thinking about getting one.

Thanks

@jbasen , Sorry, I missed this the first time around.  I love the slider but it's not perfect.  The stops need some tweaking before they work right.  Some think that for that kind of money, they should work great right out of the box.  True, but the fix is really not that hard.  I documented my fix over on Sawmill Creek if you're interested. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?229331-Sawstop-Sliding-Crosscut-Table-(Flip-Up-Stop-Fix)&highlight=sawstop

 

[rst]

Even if the blade is coated, where the arbor goes through there will always be conductivity.  Plus a lot of the coatings are a form of anodizing which is conductive...it's not paint.

 

[jbasen]

Very cool.

How do you like the Sawstop sliding table?  I've been thinking about getting one.

Thanks

[member=18233]jbasen[/member] , Sorry, I missed this the first time around.  I love the slider but it's not perfect.  The stops need some tweaking before they work right.  Some think that for that kind of money, they should work great right out of the box.  True, but the fix is really not that hard.  I documented my fix over on Sawmill Creek if you're interested.  http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?229331-Sawstop-Sliding-Crosscut-Table-(Flip-Up-Stop-Fix)&highlight=sawstop

Thanks Jim. That is great info!!

 

[ScotF]

Cool thread. Love the handles and the storage in general. Very well executed!

 

[butzla]

Awe shucks, Scotf.  Thanks!

 

[blaszcsj]

Even if the blade is coated, where the arbor goes through there will always be conductivity.  Plus a lot of the coatings are a form of anodizing which is conductive...it's not paint.

Anodizing is a build up of an oxide layer on a part and it is non conductive.

 

[travisj]

I picked up a Sawstop PCS a couple of months ago (still haven't had time to get the rails, fence, and extension assembled).  Freud blades are recommended for the saw.  I fell in love with a Freud 40 tooth full kerf combo blade in my previous Powermatic and bought another one when I picked up the Sawstop.  Oddly enough, the only Freud blade that is reportedly ill-suited to the Sawstop is the Freud Thin Kerf Glueline Rip blade (the one that was pictured in the cabinet).  Supposedly that blade, and from what I was told, only that blade, tends to grenade and come apart when/if the Sawstop's brake is activated.  I have no proof (and hope to never have any), so the validity of that statement is purely here say.

I love that cabinet.  I have been mulling over what to do under mine.  With my previous saws, that space was just a catchall for items that were infrequently used (chop saw, old Craftsman shop vac, etc...).  I can say that I will be copying your build, but I probably won't take the time to make it as pretty.

 

[Billy stray]

Great use of space, I agree building something custom for yourself, especially for your shop is always fun & most non woodworking folks would never understand
Question; I have a unisaw and have always been curious , besides the safety benefits does the saw stop feel much better than the unisaw ?

 

[butzla]

Thanks, Travisj and Billy.  Over and above the safety aspect,  without a doubt it's a winner over my old Unisaw.  It cuts like butter.  I'm told it's because the arbor is massive, the industry's largest.  Overbuilt in order to take the safety brake's repeated impact.  It's also much easier to dial in the blade parallel to the miter slot.  Mine is within .001, and it was simple.  The sliding crosscut table is leaps and bounds more smooth than my old Excalibur slider.  The overhead bade guard's dust collection is right on par with Festool's...no exaggeration they claim it's 99% dust free and I agree.  That's huge for me as I'm allergic to dust.
I would say the only negative aspect is that when sliding the fence left or right, there is play that was not present in the Biesemeyer fence.  But once you lock it down, the play is completely gone.  It just takes a little getting used to.

 

[travisj]

I have the baby of the PCS Sawstop (1.75) and I finally got it all together.  Out of the box, the blade was off .004 from the miter.  Within 30 minutes (kids were distracting me) I had it down to less than .001 as well.  I fired it up and ran some 3/4 red oak I had laying around to set the guage on the fence.  My old Powermatic would labor and shimmy on occasion through the same material.  With this saw, I had to watch my feed rate it was sliding through so smooth.  I agree with the dust collection.  Only when I was messing around squaring ends (cutting off about 1/2") did I get some dust on the table (purely because my small cut-off held the blade guard up off of the table).  I am definitely impressed.  I had looked at another Powermatic or a Unisaw prior to buying the Sawstop and everyone I spoke with (even non-Sawstop dealers) said that safety aside, Sawstop made a heck of a nice saw.  The safety aspect just made my purchase easier to justify with my wife.  I have 7 year old twins that enjoy spending time with me in the "shop".  So far they just cut up whatever I mount in the bench with their coping saws, but they are not too far away from slowly learning and respecting powertools.

 

[ben_r_]

Nicely done! I have been planning to build a cabinet just like this to go under my SS PCS too! Thanks for the ideas!

 

[Holmz]

Even if the blade is coated, where the arbor goes through there will always be conductivity.  Plus a lot of the coatings are a form of anodizing which is conductive...it's not paint.

Anodizing is a build up of an oxide layer on a part and it is non conductive.

And here be dragons...
In the 60s (or maybe 50s), aluminum wire was used in houses, and modern physics explained how one gets electrons through a non conductive anodise.
http://journals.aps.org/pr/abstract/10.1103/PhysRev.134.A1094

I have no idea what is means for a part on a SAW stop(?)... but electron tunnelling sounds cool if nothing else.