My hybrid version of a DIY MFT Sysport

nicholam77

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Mar 7, 2019
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Can never have enough of these, right?  [big grin]

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The ETS 125 REQ you see is actually my only Festool, but I am enamored with the "system" and the creativeness of the community that seems to surround these tools. This is my effort to incorporate some of these ideas and ways of working into an all-purpose small shop workbench.

I'm calling it a hybrid because it's a combination of several others' ideas that I borrowed. To give credit where credit is due -- the carcass is largely a copy Justin Michael's cart from this thread. The "rails" of the top are from Guy Dunlap's MFT/Outfeed table project.

Guy Dunlap

The mortise and peg system from the legs you might recognize as borrowed from Timothy Wilmots System Workshop benches.

Timoth Wilmots

Basically I really liked bits and pieces from each of these designs, and combined them to make something that worked for me in my small garage.

The carcass is birch ply, biscuited and pocked screwed. The legs of the cart and the horizontal "rails" of the work surface are maple. The little feet that elevate the work surface are walnut, and the holey top is 3/4" MDF.

The work surface is 46" x 30", so almost the same as the official MFT/3 surface.

A bit about the construction. I realize this would arguably have been a great project to justify a Domino, but I simply don't have the funds, so all of the leg mortises were done with my DeWalt 618 router:

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The Systainers have pull out drawers with indexing holes for the foot pads which I template routed with the help of a jig:

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Systainers can be opened fully while in the drawer.

Here is a Sketchup of what the work surface frame looks like. Birch ply inner frame, maple outer frame. Inner frame height is recessed to accept the MDF top.

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T-tracks from Orange Aluminum were added (these fit the Festool Quick Clamps), with a notch left for the track saw blade to pass through on both sides.

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Then some 1/8" bar aluminum was added to accept the Festool rail support pivots (I ordered these from a parts dealer). If I could redo I'd actually use 1/16" bar aluminum instead so they slide easier:

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The holey top was drilled with my router, Woodrave Etsy jig, and Bosch 20mm bit. I only use the holes for clamping, not square, so this method was accurate enough for my needs:

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Above you can see I also added two short sections of T-track for positioning a cross cut fence.

I went with a Misumi aluminum extrusion for this:

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Yes I have the Makita, not the TS55. [big grin]

To square I simply install the rail, install the fence loosely, position a large known square and butt the fence up to it, then tighten the L-brackets. It's easy, and accurate.

As far as function, it does all the things you might expect.

Crosscuts up to 28", really any length:

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Surface for standalone cuts:

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Vertical clamping for edgebanding:

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Joinery:

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Finishing on protective 1/8" hardboard spoil surface:

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Table saw outfeed:

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Sanding, assembly, Systainer storage, and more!

All in all it cost about $500 to build in materials and the Festool rail parts.

I know there are a million of these out there, but I was definitely inspired by many designs on this forum and hope someone finds this interesting!

I have ideas for more features / expansion as well, so stay tuned.  [big grin]

Cheers,
-Nick

 
Stay tuned I shall, excellent ideas, thanks for the great pictorial!
 
What a great cart!  I don't see anything wrong with borrowing ideas from others to suit your needs.
What do you have planned for the vertical space between the two rows of drawers?
 
I agree, great job!! I always enjoy everyone’s pics/story especially for this beginner and rookie fesfool. I think we all see ideas and then modify for our personal needs/spaces. I read the FOG everyday for just such things and you’re is as good/better as any I’ve seen.

I’ve got the SYS-AZ’s and have some of it done now but wife side tracked me with a sewing table and some shelves.

Can’t wait to see chapter 2
 
Thanks everyone!

[member=70363]MikeGE[/member] the vertical space will get some small shelves. I added a few plywood cleats on the inside of those panels before assembly that the shelves will sit on (non-adjustable I'm afraid). I just haven't made them yet.

Before this bench I made a smaller Paulk-style bench and I really loved the cutouts for placing tools and clamps under the work surface. This new bench... in order to get the Systainer height I wanted and also use for my table saw cart, I don't have as much room under the work surface to place things. So the shelves in the vertical cavity will be for that -- smaller items like the Festool Quick Clamps, my Bosch 12v drivers, boxes of screws, etc. Stuff I want quick access to but not on top of the work area.

And on a similar note, the Systainers only take up half the depth of the bench, so the whole back side of the cart is open right now for future use. Possibly a good spot for a vac, small compressor, more Systainers/drawers, etc.
 
Nick, this is a great work. I do have something similar and may integrate your ideas into mine, if you don't mind. Much appreciate it.

I did add holders for the quick clamps and tracks.
 

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johnyhuh said:
Nick, this is a great work. I do have something similar and may integrate your ideas into mine, if you don't mind. Much appreciate it.

I did add holders for the quick clamps and tracks.

Thanks! Please borrow anything you'd like... as mentioned in the original post most of these ideas are from other people in the first place.

I love the quick clamp shelf you made, that looks slick.

[thumbs up]
 
Small update, I added some hardboard shelves to the middle section as intended. The pull out Systainer drawers are nice, but sometimes you want to keep something out, but move it off the work surface, and not have to put it back in the Systainer. I think these little nooks will be very useful for that, whether it's moving some drills out of the way, setting down a sander, or a bottle of glue or box of screws.

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Some small updates to the bench:

First, I got a nice ball tip hex wrench, extra long, for adjusting the screws on the Festrool guide rail pivots as well as my Misumi fence hardware. It is dedicated for these purposes and stays with the bench.

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Next, I am often removing the front guide rail support as it sticks up above the work surface, to make room for larger workpieces. It also gets in the way of vertical clamping larger boards. But I always want to put it back in the same alignment so as not to mess up my kerf line. Previously I had a little pencil mark drawn on the bench and lined it up by eye, but then I had the genius idea to add a stop screw.

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The flat head of a Kreg screw makes a perfect stop for repeatability. Now I can take it on and off and know it will go back in the exact same position.

Lastly, I built the bench's first accessory -- a track saw holster to set my saw in between cuts. Full disclosure, I found a design I liked on Pinterest and more or less copied it to suit my needs. Pretty happy with how it came out!

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It can attach to any of the bench's T-tracks with 1/4-20 hardware, and the "plate" of the holster is angled nose-down to prevent the saw from accidentally falling out.

I have a TON more ideas for expansions / upgrades on this project, just a matter of finding the time to get to them  [big grin]
 
Nice work on the track saw holster.  I was just thinking I needed to do something.  I am tired of either setting it on the ground or on top of a systainer attached to my CT26.  Both seemed like a accident waiting to happen.  Thanks for the idea, information and pictures.  Man, I love pictures..
 
A few updates:

I've picked up a Woodpecker's MFT Layout and Assembly Square for squaring up the fence. Since I don't rely on the dog holes at all for square, I need a large reliable square to do the setup every time I use it. Being solid 3/4" phenolic I'm hoping it will stay true in my detached garage that is subjected to extreme temperature and humidity swings (Minnesota!).

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I also made some extension wings loosely based on Timothy Wilmots' design.

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The main reason I made them is for the below configuration, to breakdown full 4'x8' sheets of plywood (would put foam insulation on top):

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They are going to get 1/4" MDF tops as well... still debating on whether to give them the "holey top" treatment as well.

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They are not quite finished, I still need to add stops for the legs, adjustable feet for the legs, some magnets so the legs stay folded, and some french cleats so I can hang them on the wall.

 
Rick Herrick said:
Nice work on the track saw holster.  I was just thinking I needed to do something.  I am tired of either setting it on the ground or on top of a systainer attached to my CT26.  Both seemed like a accident waiting to happen.  Thanks for the idea, information and pictures.  Man, I love pictures..

I put mine on an MDF tray that I cut to fit the top of my CT26, which sits right behind where I stand when cutting at my cutting table. The holster looks like a great idea, but it wouldn't work for me as a lefty.
 
Nice build!  I like the track saw holder, which I will shamelessly borrow for my workbench.  [big grin]
 
Rick Herrick said:
Nice work on the track saw holster.  I was just thinking I needed to do something.  I am tired of either setting it on the ground or on top of a systainer attached to my CT26.  Both seemed like a accident waiting to happen.  Thanks for the idea, information and pictures.  Man, I love pictures..

Thanks Rick! I was feeling the same way... nervous to knock an expensive saw on the floor!

Crazyraceguy said:
I put mine on an MDF tray that I cut to fit the top of my CT26, which sits right behind where I stand when cutting at my cutting table. The holster looks like a great idea, but it wouldn't work for me as a lefty.

That works too! I don't have a CT vac, but hopefully one day.

acer66 said:
That all looks great, thank you for sharing.

Thank you, happy to share!

MikeGE said:
Nice build!  I like the track saw holder, which I will shamelessly borrow for my workbench.  [big grin]

Thanks! Borrow away, as mentioned I borrowed the design myself. Knowing your bench build, I'm sure yours will be 10x more beautiful. It's a handy add-on for sure.
 
A small update, I cut my fence extrusion like [member=63929]AtomicRyan[/member] and [member=70363]MikeGE[/member] , thanks for the brilliant idea guys!

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It's so much better. Now smaller workpieces can have proper support all the way up to the kerf.

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I was able to cut my 30x60 extrusion so the short part that goes under the rail is ~7/16" tall, or just shy of 1/2".

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This way I can "natively" handle 1/2" material, and if I need to cut 1/4" I can double it up on another 1/4" spacer like MDF or hardboard to total 1/2" and clear the fence.

One step closer to completing my setup.

[big grin]
 
Stimpy said:
Just read this, looks bloody brilliant!

I also like Timothy's builds .

Thank you [member=67284]Stimpy[/member]

It's working well for me so far  [big grin]

Yes, Timothy has some amazing ideas to be inspired by. Thanks for checking it out.
 
Looking great, Nick!  It's nice when the plan finally starts to come together.
 
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