My Kapex likes to throw small pcs of wood

Jeff2413

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Nov 25, 2011
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To all of you I am a fairly new Kapex owner.  I think I have had mine since around February.  I use it daily attached to my 26 vaccum and Sawhelper stand.  I cant say enough good things about the saw, vac, and stand. 

Problem I am having lately is when cutting small moldings such as scribe or shoe mold/bedmold.  If the molding isnt supported on both sides of the fence then look out!  This thing is about to take flight.  I have always had this problem, even with the stock blade, but it seems to occur more often since switching blades.  This really doesn't make sense to me since I went from the stock 60T to the Tenyru 80T Miter Master.  I understand that the way the saw is designed, being able to cut large materials, that a small molding positioned against the fence is probably being cut almost by the blades upward motion.  The material lacks support.  My question is ......In everyones professional opinion, is the support lacking from the fence or the table?  Or both?  I normally just clamp down a pc of 1x2 or whatever scrap S4S I have laying around and cut away but this is a pain when you are doing punch out and cutting small moldings, maybe a pc or 2 of base, etc.  Should I build a set of fences and attach to the tall fences for a near zero clearance and/or replace the plastic inset in the bed of the saw?

Thanks,
Jeff
 
Are you letting the blade come to a stop before raising it?  If so, the coasting teeth are likely going to grab it and throw it.  A caveat is that I haven't cut small molding with a Kapex; have cut plenty of it on a Makita and it only throws when I either lift before the blade stops or when I used to use a "crown jig" which let the offcut fall... often into the blade path.
 
just use a wooden backer.. a piece of mdf or plywood and screw it in place.. makes a zero clearance insert also.. it prevents that small pieces go fly
 
I've noticed this when cutting small mouldings -quarter round. It's the fence which has a fairly large gap IMHO, so the unsupported small piece will pivot back and catch the blade. If you go really slow and smooth with a push cut, it usually is not a problem. I haven't bothered to add a zero clearance fence but I know lots of others have so they will hopefully comment on this

Chris
 
RvB said:
just use a wooden backer.. a piece of mdf or plywood and screw it in place.. makes a zero clearance insert also.. it prevents that small pieces go fly

When cutting small/ thin pieces I add a sacrificial fence to, except I just clamp it to the Kapex fence.
 
Thanks guys.  I kinda figured that was the problem.  You could drive a truck thru that gap!  Better get back to sawing. 
 
Just a funny anti-demonstration I've always found hilarious. Skip to :33 in the video to see how NOT to use a chop saw...

vid
 
I've had that experience plenty of times with the Kapex. Most recently it was hard enough to knock the dust boot off when the offcut shot around.

While I need to knock together a sacrificial fence, what I found in the meantime that works is some scrap moulding. I clamp that down (and this generally means I can't use the Kapex clamp on my material to be cut), so that there's enough of it sticking out past the offcut to be. And you have to be somewhat careful that you don't cut all the way through your scrap. Otherwise you'll wind up with two flying pieces.

But it certainly cuts down on tearout and fly-around.
 
I made a cutting platform for my KAPEX to solve that issue.
[attachimg=#1]
The cutting platform with BESSEY toggle clamp to hold material safely.
 
I make a lot of small items, mainly boxes, and so I am frequently cutting small pieces of wood. If the cutoff side is not supported then it is quite likely to settle after the cut and even just the smallest bit of friction from the blade will make it move. I think it may have been Paul Marcel who suggested letting the blade come to a halt before withdrawing from the cut - this is my usual approach to the problem. A good sacrificial backing board will help but may not solve the issue if the cutoff piece is unstable (will not remain in place and self supporting after the cut).

The Kapex is a lot more user friendly than my old Radial Arm Saw which would send stuff to China given half a chance!

I have a number of special 'hold downs' for small items where the cutting process might risk a finger or two - I have no pictures but can produce some if required.

Peter
 
fritter63 said:
Just a funny anti-demonstration I've always found hilarious. Skip to :33 in the video to see how NOT to use a chop saw...

vid
Love the look on that guys face as he just casually walks away from the saw [big grin] [big grin] [big grin]
 
Video is hilarious.  Dudes heart rate probably kicked up to about 140!  I noticed yesterday one of the pcs that flew off my saw busted, or at least damaged, the left bevel indicator.  The plastic green thing.  Im sure its just a matter of time before it will be completely gone.  Off the Woodwerks this am for cabinet hinges so I guess I will see if they have one.
 
I was having this issue yesterday as I was cutting some returns for some scotia molding (scotia is the small molding under stair treads). I solved the issue by sawing just through the face of the molding and leaving it attached to the bigger half of the piece by a sliver of wood. Then I finished the cut with a little back saw and cleaned it up with a utility knife. No more chasing small pieces across the room!
 
Scarpia said:
Then I finished the cut with a little back saw and cleaned it up with a utility knife. No more chasing small pieces across the room!

Or you could just use one of these.
[attachthumb=#]

By the time the CMS is up to speed you can cut those small moldings and be pinning them. Hardly any dust, quiet and the blade is sharp, very sharp.
Tim
 
Jeff, As RvB mentions and a few others, use a backer board. I was very frustrated with returns/bedmold/fade backs. At first I thought it was just the blade I was using on the kapex. After a few missles, I knew it needed a backer.

I also made a ZCI for this saw plus I use a backer. I keep the backer very low profile, this way the DC is still there especially when working indoors.

I do have 3 other SCMS I use on sites with no issues of kicking out smaller pieces, but this saw tosses um...
 
I just used my new Kapex recently for the first time and I noticed the same thing - way, way more often than the other two saws I have (had).  Almost constantly shooting the scrap out where I actually can't recall this happening very often or at all with my Hitachi or Delta.  I was reading the other post about non-flat tables and extensions and jammed blade and guard and now I need to go out and check that too.  I've got a huge investment in Festool products (seems like I own one of everything and two of many).  This is not acceptable for a $2000+ setup. 
 
Agreed.  I used a Hitachi C10FSH 10" saw for years and would rarely toss anything.  $400 saw.  Oh well, I have solved that with a scrap 1 x 2 under the hold down clamp.  Plus you can line up your cut line with the kerf and be very accurate.  As far as the table flatness I'm sorta tweaked.  I love this saw but this is just pitiful. I have my Hitachi set up in my garage all the time on my Sawhelper stand and it's flat as can be.  Not tossing stuff around.  Dust collection is actually about equal the Kapex.  Maybe even better.  Look down the dust port.  It's a big 2" hole straight to the blade.  The Kapex does cut better with less deflection or run off I admit.  And it cuts big crown upright.  Not surei would by another if I had it to do over. 
 
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