My Kapex Work Station (Part 2)

[mntbighker]

Thanks Tezzer and mntbighker. I did end up with a solution (work-around) for the cordless drill to trigger the vacuum situation. Since it was primarily an issue when using pocket hole jig, my solution was...

>> reach for the Domino instead of the pocket hole jig.

Works for me  ;D

Rey

Like the guy said in RoboCop...  "Iiiiii.. LIKE IT!!!!!!"  ;D

 

[gkeas]

I used the cordless drill for a while  (2 years) with my pocket hole jig, but just recently sprung for a "decent" corded drill from PC with a max speed of 2500 rpm (2000 is recommended by Kreg), for $40 at Lowe's.  It barely costs more than a replacement bit (OK, a little over double), AND it triggers the vac. 

 

[peter halle]

I posted today that I had gone reading in the middle of the night in another post.  At a Festool Training class we talked about shops in smaller spaces and that Martin will be bringing something forward in the future, but in the meantime, you guys and gals might want to check out this thread.  Lots of good ideas to either be ripped off copied, or adapted.

Peter

 

[Tom Ryan]

What thread?  I'm really interested!

 

[peter halle]

Tom,

The one that you are on now.  I should have just said that I was bumping this thread.  Go to page one of this thread and you'll see.

Sorry for the confusion.

Peter

 

[Bob Marino]

Rey,

To say that you have done an incredible job, is to understate the obvious. Very inventive and must be a pleasure to work in.

Thanks for posting.

Bob

 

[richard.selwyn]

I used the cordless drill for a while  (2 years) with my pocket hole jig, but just recently sprung for a "decent" corded drill from PC with a max speed of 2500 rpm (2000 is recommended by Kreg), for $40 at Lowe's.  It barely costs more than a replacement bit (OK, a little over double), AND it triggers the vac. 

I wired up a lamp with a switch handing just down from the boom arm within easy reach.  When I want to start the vacuum (for Kreg amongst other things) I turn the light on. I tried using an led buld but it didn't draw enough current to trigger the vac.  I wired my dust extraction system with a cheap remote controlled switch (it was hard to find one that would handle 3kw)

Richard

 

[johnsonri]

Thanks Peter and Bob. Richard, that is a pretty ingenious solution with the switch.

Since the original post,  I have settled on the MFT 1080 fence for the infeed side of the Kapex, added a fence faces to the Kapex and put in a zero clearance insert. The fence faces have measuring tapes on either side. This setup has worked out better than I could ever ask. 

[attachthumb=#]    [attachthumb=#]    [attachthumb=#]

I find that measuring tapes on the tool itself allows me to get away from the 'measure, mark then cut' frame of mind. Where possible, I like to have measuring tape on all of my tools. 

 

[morrissey007]

Hi All, My first post here so be gentle!

I really need a sliding mitre saw, but have very limited space so most of the 'two-railers' are out of the question since the rails go so far back my bench simply isn't big enough. So I found this thread and realised the Kapex may be the answer (albeit an expensive one) but can't find anyone with the 'useful' measurements I need, and that is; I've accepted I'm going to have the long 'handle sticking out over my bench but could anyone provide the KS120 dimensions from the front, round edge of the base to the very back of the  saw, since this is actually the crucial dimension (I think?) any advice for a newbie would be most welcome! Thank you.

The only two alternatives to the 'no sticking out of the back rails' saw is the Dewalt DW777 (too small, no laser, no trenching) and the Hitachi C12RSH (rails are forward working but its a massive beast).

If this question is in the wrong place I'll post it in new questions so mods please remove/move etc!

 

[mattfc]

Hi All, My first post here so be gentle!

I really need a sliding mitre saw, but have very limited space so most of the 'two-railers' are out of the question since the rails go so far back my bench simply isn't big enough. So I found this thread and realised the Kapex may be the answer (albeit an expensive one) but can't find anyone with the 'useful' measurements I need, and that is; I've accepted I'm going to have the long 'handle sticking out over my bench but could anyone provide the KS120 dimensions from the front, round edge of the base to the very back of the  saw, since this is actually the crucial dimension (I think?) any advice for a newbie would be most welcome! Thank you.

The only two alternatives to the 'no sticking out of the back rails' saw is the Dewalt DW777 (too small, no laser, no trenching) and the Hitachi C12RSH (rails are forward working but its a massive beast).

If this question is in the wrong place I'll post it in new questions so mods please remove/move etc!

580mm from back  to the front of the KAPEX base (e.g the bit you need on a surface), 780mm from back to front of handle.. measuraemens are give or take 10mm

 

[morrissey007]

Great! Thank you for the quick reply, really appreciate it.  Just fits my 600mm Top (I can move it over to the 45 deg mark when not in use so its out of the way). so that makes my decision for me,  Off to the Festool Dealer now

 

[JimsWorkshop]

My first post, so pardon any goof ups.

I make small boxes as my hobby.  The pieces are seldom longer than 12 inches; usually more like 6-8 inches.  The opposite sides of the box need to be exactly the same length.  Has anyone figured out how to add a stop than can be adjusted that is only 6 inches from the blade? 

BTW, I have had my Kapex for all of 5 days.

-Jim-

 

[Brice_Arnold]

If you already have a fence system you can simply use a spacer block between your stop and the blade that gets your workpiece closer to the blade for cutting. I hope this makes sense.

This is my first view of this thread. It looks interesting but all the photos are missing. Any info on the photos?

 

[Alan m]

[welcome] to the fog.

i will try not to make any comments that JT will complain about. [wink]

you could try cutting a piece 10 " long and using that in between the stop and the workpiece. the 10" will make the mesurments easier to calculate.

 

[pugilato]

This is my first view of this thread. It looks interesting but all the photos are missing. Any info on the photos?

Ditto... where's the pix?

 

[waho6o9]

Just click the icon where the picture should be pugilato, then the picture shows up.  I had the same concern.

 

[j123j]

Cant see the original author's pictures... Clicking where the picture should be doesnt bring out the picture atleast for me.

Mods help please? 

 

[Kevin Stricker]

My first post, so pardon any goof ups.

I make small boxes as my hobby.  The pieces are seldom longer than 12 inches; usually more like 6-8 inches.  The opposite sides of the box need to be exactly the same length.  Has anyone figured out how to add a stop than can be adjusted that is only 6 inches from the blade? 

BTW, I have had my Kapex for all of 5 days.

-Jim-

In your situation I would make a sub-fence assembly with a t-trac and adjustable stop.  The sub fence will give you a zero clearance fence for cutting small pieces, and you can set up stops and smaller clamps easily.

Another option is to clamp a scrap of wood with the Kapex clamp giving you the right length of cut then but up each piece to that stop block.  Just make sure you don't raise the blade until it is stopped as the captured piece can kick back if you are unlucky.

 

[erock]

Another thread with photo's missing.   

I ordered my Kapex yesterday and I am looking for motivation, inspiration on a Kapex station.

But my search is falling short.

Bummer!

 

[peter halle]

Try clicking on the blue boxes.  Images appeared for me when I did that.

Peter