My MFT/3 with two modifications

heiko-rech

Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2011
Messages
16
Hi folks,
today i will present you my MFT/3 and his modifications. I write an article on my website befor a few weeks ago. It' in german but you find a lot of pictures and a few videos on my website.
http://holzwerkerblog.de/werkstatt-2/arbeitsplatz/festool-multifunktionstisch-mft3/

I use the MfT also for handwork. I use it with handplanes, hansaws and for chiseling.

The most important modification for me is the attachment on the wall.  The MFT is now wery stable for handwork and easy to convert for normal MFT use.

This modification you can see on this page:
http://holzwerkerblog.de/werkstatt-2/arbeitsplatz/wandbefestigung-fur-den-festool-mft3/

For work on small parts or making dovetails and some stuff, i've built a vise that can attached on the mft surface.
It looks like this:
http://holzwerkerblog.de/werkstatt-2/arbeitsplatz/vorderzange-fur-den-festool-mft3/

And here now a few videos:
Work with handplanes:

Festool MFT - Hobeln

gluing Boards on the MFT
Festool MFT/3 Leimholzherstellung

Attaching the fence system:
Festool MFT/3 Tisch einrichten zum Sägen

Heiko

 
Thank you so much for posting you modifications and your videos. I always appreciate it when someone post fotos of their ideas and methods.
 
Hey, I like it.

A "docking station" for your MFT... (how do you say docking station in German?)
 
Heiko, I like the way you detailed your way of stabilizing the MFT here. Something along these lines will work for most any kind of table. Once you stabilize a table in the horizontal plane you realize that even spindly legs are adequate.

Using a strong frame you can move the MFT out from the wall so the guide rail can still work in it's tilting bracket. The easiest way to make the frame strong is to cover the left side with plywood to make a shear panel. That will keep the frame from racking.
 
Heiko,

Great tips!  Thanks for sharing the videos on the FOG.  I will look through your Blog later -- looks like you have some great tips and techniques to share.  I never have thought to use the Clamping Elements to glue boards together -- I guess I never thought that there would be enough pressure, but that does not seem to be the case.  I will have to try it out.

Scot
 
Heiko, great ideas, thank you for sharing. I am definitely going to copy your method of attaching the MFT to the Wandbefestigung.

I was also surprised and impressed that the clamping elements exerted enough pressure to hold the wood you were planing.

RMW
 
Michael Kellough said:
Using a strong frame you can move the MFT out from the wall so the guide rail can still work in it's tilting bracket. The easiest way to make the frame strong is to cover the left side with plywood to make a shear panel. That will keep the frame from racking.
I have thinking about this problem long time and I have tried a bit bevor I built the "Wandbefestigung". In my oppinion the mft must be fixed on the wall for handplaning. You can stabilize it  with plywood sides and a back panel. But the MFT is a lightwight table. For planing by hand you need weight or a good fixation. Otherwise the MFT will go around the shop while you planing.

And i will not  make 200kg of stones under the mft for give it enough weight.  [big grin]

ScotF said:
Great tips!  Thanks for sharing the videos on the FOG.  I will look through your Blog later -- looks like you have some great tips and techniques to share. 
The blog is my new site. Under http://heiko-rech.de, my older site, you can find a lot more.

ScotF said:
I never have thought to use the Clamping Elements to glue boards together -- I guess I never thought that there would be enough pressure, but that does not seem to be the case.  I will have to try it out.

Be sure that your board fits perfectly. Then brings the clamping elemnts enough pressure. They aren't  strong enough to press boards together they will not fit.

RMW said:
I was also surprised and impressed that the clamping elements exerted enough pressure to hold the wood you were planing.
Yes, they are awesome.

Do you have seen the review from Dave Reinhold:
Festool Clamping Elements

Heiko
 
Hi.  Has anyone swapped out the 42" rail for a 55" rail?  I'm considering doing this in as one of my efforts to keep it from falling on my head.
 
Kodi Crescent said:
Hi.  Has anyone swapped out the 42" rail for a 55" rail?  I'm considering doing this in as one of my efforts to keep it from falling on my head.

I'd consider the swap if I were cutting 48" sheet goods, but then again 55" may be too short for a TS 55 for that purpose.  I don't get my MFT/3 TS55 combo until next week, so that's just my opinion.
 
NoBreyner said:
Kodi Crescent said:
Hi.  Has anyone swapped out the 42" rail for a 55" rail?  I'm considering doing this in as one of my efforts to keep it from falling on my head.

I'd consider the swap if I were cutting 48" sheet goods, but then again 55" may be too short for a TS 55 for that purpose.  I don't get my MFT/3 TS55 combo until next week, so that's just my opinion.

You might have better luck doing something like this;  MFT Guide Rail Catch

As for cutting 48" sheet goods, your MFT is too small for that when you mount a 1400mm guide rail on the guide-rail brackets.  But, nothing wrong with mounting a 1400mm guide rail across the longer dimension for cuts longer than can be done with the 1080mm rail.
 
heiko-rech said:
Michael Kellough said:
Using a strong frame you can move the MFT out from the wall so the guide rail can still work in it's tilting bracket. The easiest way to make the frame strong is to cover the left side with plywood to make a shear panel. That will keep the frame from racking.
I have thinking about this problem long time and I have tried a bit bevor I built the "Wandbefestigung". In my oppinion the mft must be fixed on the wall for handplaning. You can stabilize it  with plywood sides and a back panel. But the MFT is a lightwight table. For planing by hand you need weight or a good fixation. Otherwise the MFT will go around the shop while you planing.

And i will not  make 200kg of stones under the mft for give it enough weight.  [big grin]

Heiko

Heiko, I didn't mean to suggest covering the legs with plywood.

I was talking about moving the MFT out from the wall enough for the guide rail to be used.
The MFT would still need to be fixed to the wall to be strong enough for hand planing.
So, my suggestion is to make a frame that will span from the back rail of the MFT to the wall.
A frame by itself could rack when the table is pushed so the frame should be covered on the left
side with plywood. Actually the plywood should extend close to the guide rail.
 
Michael Kellough said:
Heiko, I didn't mean to suggest covering the legs with plywood.

I was talking about moving the MFT out from the wall enough for the guide rail to be used.
The MFT would still need to be fixed to the wall to be strong enough for hand planing.
So, my suggestion is to make a frame that will span from the back rail of the MFT to the wall.
A frame by itself could rack when the table is pushed so the frame should be covered on the left
side with plywood. Actually the plywood should extend close to the guide rail.

And here's a link that illustrates some of what Michael is suggesting;  http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/mft3-reinforcement!-how-to-turn-the-mft-into-a-heavy-duty-workbench!/

That is just one of a few examples that have been done by members here... 
 
Hi,
Corwin said:

I've read this thread and i've seen this pictures before i've built my version. I have no doubt that it works pretty well. But I wanted the most stable solution that is possible. Even if that means disassembling the rail for handwork.

When i work on a project i dont need to change the setup often. Therefore, it works fine for me.

Heiko
 
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