My MFT has a big zit

[Tom Ryan]

When I went to use my MFT today (actually an MFT800), I found that something had dripped on the table top.  The center of the zit is about 50mm or so in diameter, and is swollen and raised quite a bit (2 or 3 mm or so), and the swelling extends another 15mm or so out.  The swelling hasn't reached any holes, and the top is flat away from the zit.

My tentative plan is to just avoid the area while it dries out.  Then when it's pretty dry, I'll plane off the remaining swelling, and treat the area with some epoxy to harden it.  (And then say, "it's okay -- it doesn't show much" even though it does.)

But does anyone have a better idea or observations based on experience?

Tom in soggy SE Pennsylvania, where we got 3" of rain Saturday night.

 

[Brice Burrell]

I'd let it dry then sand it flat.

 

[Loren Hedahl]

Sorry to hear about your big zit.  You could just turn the table top over and use the other side.

Otherwise your fix should work just great.  If it were mine, I'd use Bondo polyester filler rather than epoxy.  It is much cheaper, hardens up quicker and is not nearly so hard as epoxy.

I've used Bondo extensively on the table for my Radial Arm saw and now on my MFT.

 

[Les]

That is the reason I sealed my tops with Seal Coat.

 

[tbellemare]

Tom:

If your zit is in the right place, you could always try this.

Tom

 

[score0matic]

Tom:

If your zit is in the right place, you could always try this.

Tom

;D  hehehe.  Tom I see you are always trying to help out your fellow Festooler
Craig

 

[Jerry Work]

Liquid of some sort caused the issue.  Sand it flat, use a plane, use a chisel or whatever.  No need for epoxy or anything else.  Don't fuss, just correct the situation and move on.  Enjoy!

Jerry

When I went to use my MFT today (actually an MFT800), I found that something had dripped on the table top.  The center of the zit is about 50mm or so in diameter, and is swollen and raised quite a bit (2 or 3 mm or so), and the swelling extends another 15mm or so out.  The swelling hasn't reached any holes, and the top is flat away from the zit.

My tentative plan is to just avoid the area while it dries out.  Then when it's pretty dry, I'll plane off the remaining swelling, and treat the area with some epoxy to harden it.  (And then say, "it's okay -- it doesn't show much" even though it does.)

But does anyone have a better idea or observations based on experience?

Tom in soggy SE Pennsylvania, where we got 3" of rain Saturday night.

 

[GreenGA]

As did we over here in South Jersey.   A friend of mine that lives a little north of here had all his mulch washed away. ???

Tom in soggy SE Pennsylvania, where we got 3" of rain Saturday night.

 

[GreenGA]

Does topping the MFT with Seal Coat really work?

That is the reason I sealed my tops with Seal Coat.

 

[ForumMFG]

You could apply wax to the top to prevent anything from sticking to the table or you can try something else that would preform the same thing but you risk getting wax or whatever on your work piece..  The best thing to do is just put wax paper down on top of it, thats my opinion.

 

[Walt300]

I saw repairs on the top using Durham's Water Putty. This can even be used to to fill the cutting slots, then sanded to restore a top to like new condition. At the moment I do not remember the web site that showed this method.

 

[Walt300]

Here is the link with a video showing how to repair slots in the table top.

Joseph Fusco

 

[Les]

You could apply wax to the top to prevent anything from sticking to the table or you can try something else that would preform the same thing but you risk getting wax or whatever on your work piece..  The best thing to do is just put wax paper down on top of it, thats my opinion.

You won't get Zinsser Seal Coat on your piece. This was suggested by Per Swenson, one of the most respected members here. He no longer posts or at least I haven't seen any posts for some time. It works to not only keep spills from soaking in but it also helps with keeping glue from sticking. By the way I had no problem with the holes being too tight. I would suggest though that you do both sides at the same time to eliminate any problems with humidity.

There are plenty of times I also use the waxed butcher paper.

Use this info for whatever you think it's worth. Just trying to help. I think you will learn there are a lot of experts here with a lot of differnt opinions. Remember no one is right every time.

 

[ForumMFG]

Les,

Thanks for the info on the wax?  Where can I get it from?  Does it dry extremely hard?

 

[Jesse Cloud]

Zinsser seal coat, or any shellac, is a good idea.  I put it on all my jigs that come in contact with glue.

It would be a good idea to treat both sides of the top to prevent warping due to uneven moisture intake...

 

[kdzito]

Raw MDF is prone to absorb any moisture due to a humid environment or liquids contact, which will swell the area(s) where it's exposed.    Unfortunately this is one big con of raw MDF.

Besides raw MDF, there are other types and the most appropriate is a Moisture Resistant MDF that resists swelling and repels moisture and then we don't have to worry about trying to seal the top.  Manufacturers of this are Sierra Pine (Medex) and Norbord.  Maybe Festool should consider this as well.   

 

[DANIELKARL]

I do not have a MFT but could you just flip the top over and just have 10 or so screw holes to deal with?

 

[Neill]

Raw MDF is prone to absorb any moisture due to a humid environment or liquids contact, which will swell the area(s) where it's exposed.     Unfortunately this is one big con of raw MDF.

Besides raw MDF, there are other types and the most appropriate is a Moisture Resistant MDF that resists swelling and repels moisture and then we don't have to worry about trying to seal the top.  Manufacturers of this are Sierra Pine (Medex) and Norbord.  Maybe Festool should consider this as well.   

Seems like a good idea but wouldn't you have to seal the four edges and all the inside walls of every hole where the core would be exposed?

Neill

 

[Les]

Les,

Thanks for the info on the wax?  Where can I get it from?  Does it dry extremely hard?

Dave,

Zinsser's Seal Coat is a fast drying de-waxed shellac. Check the link out for more info. One piece of advise, don't overwork the piece. It will dry very quickly and cause streaks or lumps if overworked. It will level itself if you don't overwork. Very easy to use just follow the instructions. Works great also as a barrier coat between different finishes.

 

[Les]

Seems like a good idea but wouldn't you have to seal the four edges and all the inside walls of every hole where the core would be exposed?

Neill

Not really. I didn't on mine. Guess you could but sure seems like it would be overkill.