My "PowerSys' build

[wow]

I have for a long time wanted to modify a systainer to serve as a power distribution center. I am finally getting around to doing so.

My goals for it are as follows:

• 20 Amp Capacity
• 25-foot 12/3 power cable
• GFCI Protection
• Outlets on front and each end
• Dust-protected outlets (tamper resistant)
• No protrusions (clean look, prevents damage, allows placement tight to wall)
• Power Indicator on front (so you know there is power coming into the PowerSys)
• Cord storage inside for the PowerSys cord, plus another 25 or 50-footer (haven't decided yet)
• Clean, rugged interior so cords can't damage wiring

I purchased most of the parts last night, then measured things up to see how it would fit best. Here's a photo rendering of what I came up with so far:

[attachimg=1]

And the interior:

[attachimg=2]

The cord for the PowerSys will be permanently attached for reliability. To use it, you simply pull out only as little or as much cord as you need. This prevents a cord mess or trip hazard. There is a grommeted half-circle on one side near the back that the cord can be placed into, and the lid then closed and latched.

Your suggestions and ideas are solicited and most welcome. I will think about it for a day or two and wait for comments before I go ahead and cut into the systainer, but I think I'm ready to get started...

 

[G3Trim]

It looks real nice and clean. If your going to be using it in the field I would go with a 50' lead cord, then a extra 25' and 50' cord. But that's up to your needs what you should put into it.

 

[wow]

It looks real nice and clean. If your going to be using it in the field I would go with a 50' lead cord, then a extra 25' and 50' cord. But that's up to your needs what you should put into it.

Yeah, I was really torn between going with 25' or 50'. My logic was:

• Use the shortest cord possible to minimize voltage drop. I can always use another cord to make it longer, but I can't make it shorter.

• A shorter cord is quicker to pay out and put away if that's all you need.

• I *think* that in most cases I will be within 25 feet of an outlet and just need some outlets closer for convenience. BUT this was/is a BIG assumption.

Is my logic weak or flawed?

 

[G3Trim]

I only say use the 50' for lead because you don't want to lose another cord that could be used for something else you need power for. I don't think you'll have trouble with voltage drop on a 12 gauge 50' cord, just plug your high amp draw tools into your box. Then use your other cords off the box to run your smaller power tools. let us know how it turns out.

 

[Sparktrician]

I'm almost always within 25' of an outlet, so I'd rather have a 25' cable built in or on a NEMA L5-20 twist-lock connector on the side or back.  I can always switch between a 25' cable and a 50' cable as necessary.  Since you're proposing to use 12 gauge wiring, why not also go with NEMA 5-20P connectors on the extension cord?  You can also use the adapter that comes on the CT to step down to 15 amp circuitry.  I'd also go with a 20-amp GFCI. 

[smile]

 

[jeh]

A cord rewinder would be nice, but that is but a dream. I've seen several at various stores and they are either too big and/or heavy and I don't know how they could be mounted and still work.

Here's a similar product albeit not in a systainer: eCoiler. I have their air hose, which is in a similar case, and it is a good product. Both of these products would be of interest to most Festool users if they were in systainers. I don't see it being done though.

I am looking forward to seeing your final product as I am going to make one for myself at some point. I'm carrying my power cords in a systainer so why not add some outlets.

 

[wow]

I'm almost always within 25' of an outlet, so I'd rather have a 25' cable built in or on a NEMA L5-20 twist-lock connector on the side or back.  I can always switch between a 25' cable and a 50' cable as necessary.  Since you're proposing to use 12 gauge wiring, why not also go with NEMA 5-20P connectors on the extension cord?  You can also use the adapter that comes on the CT to step down to 15 amp circuitry.  I'd also go with a 20-amp GFCI. 

[smile]

Willy:

The receptacles and GFCI models were downloaded from the 3D warehouse, and the only thing available was the 15 Amp version. I didn't modify the models, but I actually went with 20 Amp GFCI and receptacles.

Edit: Here - fixed it for ya!

[attachimg=1]

 

[thedude306]

I converted to the Neutrik true1 connectors to get power to my box and bench.  rated at 20 amps, small, and flush mount.

I am currious what you found for the boxes on the inside.  I can't find anything a REALLY like.

This is a dual outlet (in and out) but they also make a single in or single out flush mount.  I am extremely happy with them so far.

 

[wow]

I converted to the Neutrik true1 connectors to get power to my box and bench.  rated at 20 amps, small, and flush mount.

I thought about something like that, but in the end I 

a) didn't want to change the connectors on everything I have, and

b) want to be able to plug in a random 'standard' plugged tool as needed - for instance one that was new, borrowed, or rented. I couldn't do that with your solution.

But I do like the Neutrik product. I used to use their audio stuff.

I am currious what you found for the boxes on the inside.  I can't find anything a REALLY like.

I struggled with that too, and in the end used standard Carlon Boxes.

One 2-gang for the front, Carlon Model # E9802E

[attachimg=1]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-2-Gang-32-cu-in-FSE-Box-E9802E-CTN/100404110

And 2 single-gang boxes for the sides, Carlon Model # E980DFN

[attachimg=2]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1-Gang-19-cu-in-Type-FSE-FS-Box-E980DFN-CTN/100404037?keyword=e980dfn

They aren't perfect, but they're the best i could find. I will cut the ears off and polish the cuts so the cords inside don't catch on them. I think they'll be fine.

 

[thedude306]

Yup, I struggled with going with a goofy plug as well, but then decided to make adapters. 

Those are the best solution for boxes on the interior that I found as well.  Are you going to go out the bottom or out the back?   

 

[wow]

Yup, I struggled with going with a goofy plug as well, but then decided to make adapters. 

Those are the best solution for boxes on the interior that I found as well.  Are you going to go out the bottom or out the back? 

Both. If you look at my design, the singles come out the back while the double has one coming out each side. I need them in specific places so I bought some bushings that I will glue in after I drill the holes where I want them.

 

[basil86]

I've thought about doing this for a while.

Im not sure on foreign regulations, but UK sites usually require a drop-down transformer to 110v, which you could put inside if necessary.

I've also considered including a couple of USB ports to charge phones, and using a port and kettle lead, instead of a fixed cable.

Just some ideas to consider.

 

[wow]

I've thought about doing this for a while.

Im not sure on foreign regulations, but UK sites usually require a drop-down transformer to 110v, which you could put inside if necessary.

I've also considered including a couple of USB ports to charge phones, and using a port and kettle lead, instead of a fixed cable.

Just some ideas to consider.

This project is actually completed ( I know - I'm as shocked as anyone! ) and was entered in the Festool Video Contest. You can see my video here:

 

[carlb40]

Well done on that and on the video.  [big grin]

 

[Holmz]

I've thought about doing this for a while.

Im not sure on foreign regulations, but UK sites usually require a drop-down transformer to 110v, which you could put inside if necessary.

I've also considered including a couple of USB ports to charge phones, and using a port and kettle lead, instead of a fixed cable.

Just some ideas to consider.

Or run the power to it as 220v and have 220v and 110v available.
Actually I am not sure whether the US 220v are 3 pin or 4 pin??
http://www.smps.us/twist_lock.gif

The 4 pin would work, but the 3 pin is obviously a problem.

 

[wow]

Actually I am not sure whether the US 220v are 3 pin or 4 pin??
http://www.smps.us/twist_lock.gif

The 4 pin would work, but the 3 pin is obviously a problem.

Yes, in most cases the proper connection for use in the US would be a 4-Prong plug and receptacle. Unlike in Europe, though, 240 is almost never found as an 'open outlet'. It is usually only used in a few applications, like a range, clothes dryer, air conditioner, water heater, etc. - most (but not all) of which are hardwired.

In the instance where you find a 'spare' 240-volt receptacle it has generally been wired with a specific use in mind. If it's in a garage or shop area it's often used for tools like a welder, air compressor, etc.

 

[thedude306]

Thanks for the inspiration [member=25476]wow[/member]

I know it's the wrong color but it turned out pretty good. ;-)

IMG_2727 by thedude306, on Flickr

IMG_2726 by thedude306, on Flickr

 

[Staniam]

Two awesome creations  [big grin]

 

[Cheese]

[member=42010]thedude306[/member]

I like that a lot.  [thumbs up]  Like the addition of the USB charging ports. Is there anything on the 2 end panels?

Do you have any photos of the inside?

 

[Julian Tracy]

Re: the OP's power systainer.  Looks good, though I had a few thoughts after watching the video:

- The front outlet with all of the screws gives it a bit of a "home-made" look.  Possibly a cleaner look would be to use the screw-less outlet covers that are often used on tile back splashes.  They could give you the security (if required) of using all of the screws but yet cover them up for a much nicer look.

- Regarding using outlet cover plates - I was also thinking why have them at all?  Why not just cut perfect square holes in the systainer sides and front using outlet cover plates as templates and let the systainer walls act as the "coverplate".

- Here's an idea - make a padded phone caddy that slips right onto your charger studs - that way the entire unit can be picked up and moved while the phone is charging.

- Do you need a sys3?  I've not checked, but if the entire setup could be installed in a sys2 it would be a much more space efficient affair.  Possibly would need to install the outlets horizontally?  Possibly add a fourth outlet in the back to allow the front to be a single if need be?  I'll allow that using a sys2 would probably preclude the storage of a 50' cord inside, but maybe you split the difference and use a 30-35' cord on the interior cord wrap and skip the storage of a larger cord.

- I have seen a smaller profile GFCI plug receptacles that would maybe help with the smaller sys 2; would allow the use of shallower interior junction boxes.

- Another mod to make this a cleaner look is to eliminate the charger mounting studs and instead create charger mounts that slip into the label slot (kindof like the "briefcase" handles that are used in the sys1).  This approach could also be used for a phone caddy,
it could be made to also slip right into the label slots.

- A great addition would be to add a built-in circuit breaker.  Better to pop "your" breaker in times of too many amps instead of having to to go find your client's circuit panel.  It would be relatively easy to do this with the same clean look.  Possibly add a indicator light next to the circuit breaker as well?

- Finally, as an alternative to going smaller, maybe go larger?  you could built in all of the above into a sys4 and then put a new "floor" to cover all of the electrical and then make it a combo use:  possibly a power box + a cleaning kit?  Or a powerbox + a misc. job items carry all?

Good job regardless.

Julian