my sysport workbench

[Timtool]

What a nice space.  I'm impressed and a little jealous.  Thanks Timtool.

EDIT: I'm curious, what are the approximate dimensions of your shop ?

what you see here is the insulated part of my workshop, so i can heat it in the winter. it's quite small 5 by 4 meters.
but it sits in a 16 by 30 meter hangar. lots of space, though it's shared with a combine, 3  tractors and lots of farming equipment.

 

[RONWEN]

Very, very nice work space Tim!

 

[BMH]

Tim

Very nice set up. I have been thinking about organizing my shop in somewhat the same way. The drawer for the systainers was on my list but I do not want to lose the space behind them. Have you given any thoughts about it. The bench top, why not just use a mft3 top unstead of a torsion box?

Bruce

 

[Timtool]

Tim

Very nice set up. I have been thinking about organizing my shop in somewhat the same way. The drawer for the systainers was on my list but I do not want to lose the space behind them. Have you given any thoughts about it. The bench top, why not just use a mft3 top unstead of a torsion box?

Bruce

i don't think theres A perfect solution for the loss of space behind the systainers when placing the bench against a wall, ideally the workbench would be placed centrally so you have access all around, that way you could use the space behind for shelves or other systainers. my drawers extend right to the back of the wall, so i can still store stuff behind the systainers on the drawer but it's just not practical or necessary.
i do plan on lowering the drawers so they come just a few mm above the one below, that way i make space at the top for a normal drawer for storing sanding pads.
you need to find the right balance between comfortable top workspace, and the loss of space behind the drawers. what mattered to me was the workspace, if i was going to lose space behind the drawers was a secondary issue.

and i made my own top because the festool mft3 top is, well ridiculously expensive while easy to make for 1/5th of the cost and not the right size anyway. i chose a torsion box because i wanted it to stay perfectly flat and stable, and the bottom of the box stops the dust and chips to fall all over the systainers and the tools below. only regret is that i should have made it deeper to accommodate the clamps

 

[Steve R]

How'd you make the top??

do you mean making the holes?
it's complex to explain, but simple in reality, and it didn't take more than 10 minutes to make them.

i first made the torsion box top wich consists of a 12mm sheet below, then a series of vertically placed mdf strips (30mm) and then a 18mm top. the top is screwed but not glued so it can be replaced.
this sandwich is virtually (almost) undeformable and is as flat as can be.



then i made a jig (in green on image) a simple piece of mdf, with strips at both ends to keep it paralel. on the jig i made a line every 96mm, all i had to do was align the centerline of my router to the line on the jig. i used a 20mm bit and i think it is pretty much ruined after making those plunge cuts.

inside the torsion box there are also beechwood blocks into wich the top and oak egde are fastened. mdf alone is not strong enough for that.

i have already discovered a flaw in the system, the torsion box is not deep enough for the festool clamps to get in the holes. i will add a T-track on the top of the oak edge aswell so i can clamp stuff on top.

Great idea Tim!

If a person had the 32mm rails and system it would be even quicker.  Put a stop block on the bottom and then just go every 3rd hole (3x32mm = 96mm) then you you have to do is move the rail 96mm or spin it 90 degrees and line it up and dang you are spot on.

Tim, if you don't have a MFT I can measure the distance they have it set for, when it is set on the floor or on top of a flat top.  Let me know if that would be of help.  I would think that some here have that measurement memorized.

Cheers,
Steve

 

[Timtool]

little update with some upgrades,
i squeezed the systainer drawers closer together to make more space above them for some extra drawers.

on the right i added this drawer to store 6 of the most used sandpapers, well i don't have any more actually. it's more practical than keeping them in the boxes in a cabinet or on a shelf.


this is Cannelle, my new shop dog. the one seen in the first post passed away a month ago at 17


and on the left i had less space due to the sys 3 and 2's, so i made a shallow drawer ideal for storing screws. this way i can keep an eye on my screw stock and refill before i run out.


the kapex was perfect in making the slots in the dividers so they slide together.

 

[bw44]

very nice. can you tell me where to pick up the 20 mm bit you used to drill the holes. thanks

 

[JLB builders LLC]

NICE shop. Cool dog

 

[Boatman]

Lee Vally sells forsner bits in metric. I recently bought a 20 mm for drilling a custom mft and it worked great.

 

[peter halle]

Tim,

I am sorry for your loss.  Last year I lost faithful friends of 16 and 18 years.

Congratulations on a new friend.  The image shows a lot of promise. [thumbs up]

What a great setup!  If I ever get a shop setting I am going to copy some of your ideas!

Peter

 

[Timtool]

very nice. can you tell me where to pick up the 20 mm bit you used to drill the holes. thanks

In europe 20mm bits are easy to find, in your case for the States i can't help you but luckely Boatman has already jumped in on that.
Maybe your festool dealer can get them for you, but routing such holes by only plunging pretty much ruins the bit which is supposed to make dado cuts really. So i wouldn't go with an expensive one, unless you can find a spiral cutting bit.

 

[Stone Message]

Dear Timtool,

I really love what you have done with your workbench. When I first saw your post it made me think about my new bench project. I like your ideas for the systainer drawers and the clamping slots. I have been able to develop my own design after seeing yours. When mine is complete I will post a picture or two.

Thanks for your brilliant bit of work.

Peter

 

[Timtool]

Thank you Peter, can't wait to see yours.

 

[allen r austin]

well darn, now i have to start over- NICE JOB

 

[Timtool]

i thought i'd show how it has evolved, i invested in the LR 32 system and a small edge bander so during the holidays i tested it all out by building some melamine wall storage cabinets.

The center cabinet is very shallow so it doesn't get in the way of working on the table, it's used for storing router and drill bits. I made the holes for the router bits with the LR 32 aswell.
theres also storage for clamps and tool wrenches.

 

[woodguy7]

Very neat & organised, just the way I like it. Any closer pics of the edge banding ?

 

[mouppe]

Very smart! I like how the Bosch router base has been relegated to the top shelf!

 

[Stone Message]

Thank you Peter, can't wait to see yours.

Dear Tim

Here it is. They are not visible in this shot but I have a number of slots in the sides of the legs which allow the Festool lever clamps to be used. There are also 4 holes in the front face for the same. I have room for all of my systainers (at the moment!) as the drawers can accept them two deep.
All of this was put together with the DF 500 and DF 700 Dominos, my Kapex, Rotex 90 and TS 55 - all supported, of course, by my faithful CTL 26.

Peter

 

[JPF Woodworking]

Peter,

Could I ask how you support the drawers? Do you use hardware or are they supported with wooden cleats of some sort?

Very nice unit!

John

 

[Stone Message]

Dear John

The drawers are supported on heavy duty runners which I buy from Screwfix at about £8 per pair. They are 550mm long and allow my drawers to open fully. They are strong enough to take the weight of two big systainers (eg OF 2200 and TS55). I have attached a picture.

Peter