My TS55REQ bevel stop fix

[Rollin22Petes]

Alright I decide I was tired of fooling around with my saw not having a positive stop at the bevel gauge in the front of the saw. I know you should tighten the rear of the saw and then the front without applying pressure as not to teak the frame as has been discussed many times her on the forum but that to me is cumbersome any really is an oversight by Festool. Having said that I came up with my own fix right behind the front bevel stop there's a 4mm hole.  The adjustable depth stop screws on Festool routers are 5mm so I drilled the hole and tapped it to accept the 5mm screw

 

[Rollin22Petes]

Alright I decide I was tired of fooling around with my saw not having a positive stop at the bevel gauge in the front of the saw. I know you should tighten the rear of the saw and then the front without applying pressure as not to teak the frame as has been discussed many times her on the forum but that to me is cumbersome any really is an oversight by Festool. Having said that I came up with my own fix right behind the front bevel stop there's a 4mm hole.  The adjustable depth stop screws on Festool routers are 5mm so I drilled the hole and tapped it to accept the 5mm screw.

 

[Nippychippy]

Thanks for that .thats a great wee fix [thumbs up]

 

[ear3]

What did you use to tap the hole?

 

[Rollin22Petes]

I actually got lucky and found a small metric tap & die set at home depot for $30 that worked great. The screw from the router really works good as it has a nylon strip in it so it fits snug and won't move really allows you to dial the saw dead on 90 degrees. 

 

[ear3]

This was the method that a Festool dealer actually suggested as a fix -- it's a little hard to make out, but it looks like the screw is actually coming up through the bottom then?

 

[Rollin22Petes]

Yeah I tried to get the best photos I could. The screw actually screws in from the top down toward towards the base of the saw. As you turn the screw clockwise it contacts the base witch allows you turn it until it hits 90 degrees if you turn it counterclockwise it will allow you to the -1 degree setting.

 

[Worm Drive]

I was thinking of doing the same thing. Now that I know it will work, I'm gonna do it. Thanks for sharing.

 

[ear3]

I was thinking of doing the same thing. Now that I know it will work, I'm gonna do it. Thanks for sharing.

Ok -- so it's a set screw then (don't see a head at the top).

 

[Deansocial]

There isnt a head, its a grub srew

 

[mouppe]

There isnt a head, its a grub srew

...which is called a set screw in North America! In the UK headless set screws are called grub screws, but here they are all referred to as set screws!

It's another of those thicknesser/ planer/ jointer lingo differences again.

 

[SittingElf]

There isnt a head, its a grub srew

...which is called a set screw in North America! In the UK headless set screws are called grub screws, but here they are all referred to as set screws!

It's another of those thicknesser/ planer/ jointer lingo differences again.

Oh boy!!  Another "boot vs. trunk" thread!  I love these! [big grin]
[popcorn] [popcorn] [popcorn] [popcorn]

Cheers,

Frank

 

[Rollin22Petes]

Regardless of what you call it in your location on EKAT here in the US Festool calls it a threaded pin. If you like to use the same one I used the part# is 451537 it works great because of the nylon insert. [big grin]

 

[grbmds]

I had a slight zeroing out problem to begin with and I understood that you could do what you guys are suggesting; install a setscrew where the old one used to be installed on the previous TS55 model. However, I wondered that, over time, the screw might wear into the saw base and therefore, require regular adjustment. I suppose how quickly that would happen depends on how often you made bevel cuts and returned the saw to zero degrees. Anyway, I made the adjustment with the existing stop bracket and found it's been fine since.

 

[rst]

This is a great fix.  My recon 55 was in perfect condition when I received it, but was not square to the base like yours.  I cut shim stock to fit the triangular recess and epoxied it in place so there is no chance of out of alignment.  The scale is off by 1mm, but I know that and it is not an issue for me.  My saw was also not parallel to the guide rail and that to was an easy adjustment. 

 

[DzordanoBruno]

Hi Guys,
I made the same thing today.
In first time i made adjustment with two 25 torx. Then i screw just stainless Steel pin 4x 25mm with imbus. I just screw pin with greas, nothing hard to do.

 

[DzordanoBruno]

Perfekt zero.

 

[schtumpig]

Then i screw just stainless Steel pin 4x 25mm with imbus. I just screw pin with greas, nothing hard to do.

Is that the same as a M4 25mm size screw? Something like this? I don't want to re-thread the hole if i don't need to. Thanks!
http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/68015643?src=pla&cid=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test&CS_003=7867724&CS_010=68015643

 

[DzordanoBruno]

Yes. M4/25 A2 VH912(DIN).
Metric.
No re-threading,  just screwing this screw. I screw this pin wery slowly with greas and screwdriver. When was half screw in, i used CXS.  Half turn in and 1/4 turn back, than full size screw out, clean hole, greas crew a screw it => make this procedure serveral time.  When is this screw full in. Clean hole and screw new pin. Very easy solution.

Sorry, my english is horrible.

 

[DzordanoBruno]

So,
how it works? Tried any off You this procedure?  I cut some plywood but i forgot measured this squarnes. I hope this extra pin works.