Joe Jensen said:I'm a serious hobbyist furniture maker with a full workshop including a large sliding table saw. I use a Dewalt 14" radial arm saw as my cut off station. I don't currently own a miter saw. I put all new base and casings in the current house and I just bought a dewalt 14" compound miter saw, used it, and then sold on Craig's list. Net cost was about $40. We bought a new house and I will be installing A LOT of wainscotting. Maybe 250 linear feet. It will be MDF and moldings. I will rip all the parts to width in the shop which is just a mile away and I will be able to cut a ton of stuff in the shop, but I need a sliding compound miter saw. And, I hate how loud and coarse most sound.
The Kapex is compelling as it's compact, relatively light weight with nice accessories. But there have been so many issues reported. Would you spring for a Kapex? I have three daughters who will be buying houses over the next few years and expect to be working a lot on them so long term I will need a miter saw.
Master Carpenter said:Short answer No. unless you absolutely need the great dust collection of the kapex, buy another miter saw. And yes I own a kapex, but my Bosch 12" slider is a superior saw.
antss said:Hard to say. They have acknowledged there was a problem (hint, hint) and have said they are adjusting manufacturing but......................................
There are still a lot of saws mis-aligned out in the market. So it's quite possible you get one that needs adjustment. Might be a while before we can tell if the prob. was really fixed or just lip service.
The good news is the issue can be fixed relatively easily out in the field. I haven't heard any reports on whether the battery version suffers from the problem.
Getmaverick said:Unless you do a lot of compound miters the bevel readout is not that important.
As a remodeler I use that function maybe 10% of the time.
I'd buy a second battery version, if I knew Makita was going to offer an ac adaptor.
Peter Halle said:I have a Kapex and would buy one again. It was noted above by others that the bevel adjustment was a selling point. It was also noted that for one poster that it was only helpful for compound miters. Like that poster I rarely cut compound miters, BUT I do regularly cut wood that exceeds the height limitation of ANY mitersaw where you stand the workpiece upright against the fence and then try to cut a simple miter (just rotating the saw in the horizontal plane.)
The ability to cut inside and outside miters on 6" baseboard for example using the easy to use bevel gauge is a valid consideration in my mind.
Peter