Need advice - which track saw?

[bneg]

Hi all - new to the forum and I have decided to purchase a track saw. Original thought was the TS55 as I only work in my shop and a cordless version is not necessary. Then I heard that the cordless version actually has more power so I thought I would go that route. Now I see that there is a new model (TSV 60) coming to the US shortly that has a scoring blade. What I need it for is breaking down large sheets. Its possible I would cut laminate or laminate covered plywood but normally its just going to be plywood for furniture and shop cabinets. Should I hold out and wait for the TSV 60 or get one of the other units already available?  Thanks for any advice.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

Welcome to the FOG.

The TSV60 is already available over here and I tried it out. Beautiful saw - but it became immediately apparent that it's a highly specialised tool aimed at fabricators who spend all day cutting nothing but laminate. The scoring blade and extra drive system adds an awful lot of length and weight to the machine. A coupla generations of kitchen installers (myself included) have already managed to get super-clean laminate cuts using a TS55, and it's a brilliant all-rounder for cutting everything else including ply, MDF and 'proper' timber. So I'd pass on the TSV - especially since it's likely to be many, many months before it hits the US. Same goes for the new TS60. No US release date yet, and no information forthcoming.

If you're not doing site work, cordless is unnecessary as you say, and will cost you considerably more. And as for the power of the corded model - it's more than enough, as countless owners on here will tell you. The TS55 hasn't become the global industry standard by accident. Keep it simple, don't over-think this, and for the application you describe, put the extra money towards a TSO GRS-16 guide rail square and a good dust extractor instead.

Hope you get fixed up.

 

[jeh]

Keep in mind that corded just works and works every single time unless power to your home is lost.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I agree 100% with the above statement.
I'm also a pro, in a cabinet shop, who uses a TS55 on a daily basis. Since I am not mobile, I chose the corded model. It has plenty of power and has never let me down. With the proper blade, you can get good clean cuts in most materials. Ply, melamine, MDF, HPL (laminate), solid surface (Corian) and acrylic sheets.
Even when the TS60 does eventually get to this market, I would bet that the TSV60 is either way behind or not at all.
The cordless model is handy in situations that warrant it, but it is heavier and more bulky than the corded model anyway.

 

[luvmytoolz]

darn, so I have the original AT55E I think it is from memory (it's ~40 or so years old), groundbreaking at the time but very long in the tooth now, and was thinking of the TS60 being the next to get as an upgrade. I rarely do laminate or melamine, so the 55 would be the better one to get over the TS60 you guys reckon?

The little extra depth the TS60K and the TSV60 gives and that it can be used on it's side to trim archs would be very handy. Although I do have a HK85 for big stuff anyway. Looking at the models, the TSV60 is considerably longer than the TS60K, with the only functional difference being the scoring knife i can see?

So to answer my own question, I guess the TS60K would be the logical upgrade from my old AT55E, seeing as I don't absolutely the scoring knife functionality.

 

[ChuckM]

Snip. I rarely do laminate or melamine, so the 55 would be the better one to get over the TS60 you guys reckon?

The little extra depth the TS60 gives would be handy. Although I do have a HK85 for big stuff anyway.

Since the TS60 is the same weight as the TS55, and has a few other nicer things in addition to cutting deeper, the only thing I can think of that runs against the TS60 is its higher price. However, for those who can wait till its release in North America, the price difference between a TS55 and a TS60 can be easily absorbed by eating a few more home cooked meals instead of dining out -- if need be.

 

[luvmytoolz]

Snip. I rarely do laminate or melamine, so the 55 would be the better one to get over the TS60 you guys reckon?

The little extra depth the TS60 gives would be handy. Although I do have a HK85 for big stuff anyway.

Since the TS60 is the same weight as the TS55, and has a few other nicer things in addition to cutting deeper, the only thing I can think of that runs against the TS60 is its higher price. However the price difference between a TS55 and a TS60 can be easily absorbed by eating a few more home cooked meals instead of dining out -- if need be.

I don't mind the price difference so much, I've been drinking the green coolaid for 4+ decades now and learnt the hard (and expensive) way to appreciate the value and reliability of buying a good tool once (and crying once), so if I got another 20 years out of the new model I'd be happy.

 

[woodferret]

If you're only doing laminate once in a blue moon and don't want to get the blades or the TSV, just set to 1mm scoring depth and run your TS55 backwards.  Then back to finish.

As for cordless or corded, makes no appreciable difference power wise with both sporting the thinner kerf.  If you're tossing the tracksaw 4ft across the sheets, I'd pick cordless (ya, I tend to break into half sheets often).  I use corded, but I did also pick up the cordless' dust bag since the hose is a pain to drag around a sheet.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

If you're only doing laminate once in a blue moon and don't want to get the blades or the TSV, just set to 1mm scoring depth and run your TS55 backwards.  Then back to finish.

Exactly what I’ve been doing since forever. It works because the saw blade’s teeth are slicing downwards into the material, rather than bursting up through it. This is exactly how the TSV works = the scoring blade is spinning in reverse. The combination of the TS55’s splinter shoe and the rail’s splinterguard will still achieve near-perfection on good-quality material, but the reverse-score technique is invaluable for cheap material which breaks out and splinters super-easily. Set 1-2mm plunge depth, put your saw at the far end of the rail, run it backwards down the cut to make the score, then plunge to full material depth and cut forwards as usual.

The other time-honoured way of achieving the perfect cut is to turn your material upside down, and cut it from the back.

 

[xedos]

I've been cutting high gloss laminate and lacquer panels that have to be perfect just like wbb describes too.  Scoring cut first.  FWIW the Mafell saw has a switch on its depth stop that allow for this function.

Another thing not mentioned yet is the green clip-on splinter guard on that helps control tear out too.    As long as it's fresh.  For most people, that's going to give plenty good results.

The more horsepower debate in my opinion is for pencil pushers.  Yes the battery model delivers more power on a fresh charge, but  1.) you're not likely to notice it, and 2.) it's not as if the battery version is going to allow the user to cut some material that the mains powered version cannot.

bneg - just buy the ts55 and get to making stuff. [big grin]

 

[jaguar36]

The TS55 doesn't have nearly enough power.  Cutting anything thicker than 3/4" is a difficult task for it.  I was cutting a 1.5" oak slab yesterday and had to make two passes.  Dunno if the cordless would have had any better luck, but I was wishing for the TS75.

 

[Michael Kellough]

The TS55 doesn't have nearly enough power.  Cutting anything thicker than 3/4" is a difficult task for it.  I was cutting a 1.5" oak slab yesterday and had to make two passes.  Dunno if the cordless would have had any better luck, but I was wishing for the TS75.

Which blade were you using? The 55 comes with a plywood blade. At 1-1/2” thickness you need the combination blade . The 75 is supplied with a combination blade, suitable for thicker stock.

 

[peacefulandpatriotically]

if you are in America, the TS60K was officially announced today with a ship date on the 21 of June I believe.  Leaving out the idea of the TS60V (scoring model, nothing announced yet for USA), the new TS60K in USA market is $200 more than the latest TS55 unit.  That extra $200 is significant but for many folks, is acceptable given the added cutting depth and brushless motor (apologies if I am wrong on the motor).

The one thing that I don't get with the ts60 is why eliminate the riving knife? I get the idea of "electronic kickback" protection but im not so sure loosing the riving knife in place of more electronics is good for the end user.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

The TS55 doesn't have nearly enough power.  Cutting anything thicker than 3/4" is a difficult task for it.  I was cutting a 1.5" oak slab yesterday and had to make two passes.  Dunno if the cordless would have had any better luck, but I was wishing for the TS75.

Rip cut or crosscut? If it was the former, all your problems would be fixed using the Panther 12-tooth rip blade.

 

[Cheese]

Dunno if the cordless would have had any better luck, but I was wishing for the TS75.

Here's some 1-7/8" thick aromatic cedar ripped with the TSC cordless using the 28 tooth Feestool blade in a single pass. Aromatic cedar has a Janka hardness of 900, similar to maple & cherry.

[attachimg=1]

 

[ElectricFeet]

And if there’s a choice between a TS60 or TS55, think about the blades you’ll be using. The TS55 takes 160mm diameter blades, whereas the TS60 takes 168mm.

If you plan to buy Festool blades, then you’re good to go with either.

But if you plan to use third-party blades — either because Festool doesn’t make what you want, or you want to save money — you’ll have a much greater choice if you go with a TS55 as there are plenty of 160mm blades made by several manufacturers. (I’m sure there will be plenty of 168mm blades in the future, but right now it’s a desert.)

 

[Coen]

TS 60 K and TSV 60 K are also more powerful than the TS55, which, depending on use, might be a bit more powerful. It's also bigger and heavier, especially the TSV. It also costs more $$. Required rail length also increases.

Ignoring HK series and TS 75; the TS 55 F is the only Festool one left with a riving knife.

The one thing that I don't get with the ts60 is why eliminate the riving knife? I get the idea of "electronic kickback" protection but im not so sure loosing the riving knife in place of more electronics is good for the end user.

Same category of bs design as 99% of new bicycles having a shorter wheelbase resulting in an inherently unstable ride while your heels kick the panier bags off the (also downgraded) rear rack. Combine the latter with the a "new design" with low frame and high seat post where the rider kicks the key from the bike lock every rotation. They won't mention the unstable ride, but they will mention that it has improved maneuverability.

They only propagandize that the kickback problem has been solved with the sensor, but the riving knife prevents a bunch of kickback scenario's from even taking place PLUS blocks the cut (in real wood) from closing on the rear of the blade. The sensor might prevent a bloody outcome, it won't do anything to preserve a resemblance of cut quality when the cut closes.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

The TS55 doesn't have nearly enough power.  Cutting anything thicker than 3/4" is a difficult task for it.  I was cutting a 1.5" oak slab yesterday and had to make two passes.  Dunno if the cordless would have had any better luck, but I was wishing for the TS75.

That's why I said "with the proper blade" in the above comment.
With solid wood of that thickness, less teeth are required. A lot less if you are going with the grain.
For me the actual deciding factor in favor of the TS60 is when doing bevel cuts. I cut waterfall ends on transaction tops (Corain) that are 1 1/2" thick at the front edge. The TS55 cannot cut it completely through. It leaves a little sharp spur at the bottom of the miter/bevel.
As silly as it sounds, that little 4mm will make a difference.

 

[squall_line]

The TS55 doesn't have nearly enough power.  Cutting anything thicker than 3/4" is a difficult task for it.  I was cutting a 1.5" oak slab yesterday and had to make two passes.  Dunno if the cordless would have had any better luck, but I was wishing for the TS75.

That's why I said "with the proper blade" in the above comment.
With solid wood of that thickness, less teeth are required. A lot less if you are going with the grain.
For me the actual deciding factor in favor of the TS60 is when doing bevel cuts. I cut waterfall ends on transaction tops (Corain) that are 1 1/2" thick at the front edge. The TS55 cannot cut it completely through. It leaves a little sharp spur at the bottom of the miter/bevel.
As silly as it sounds, that little 4mm will make a difference.

That was the primary complaint most US-based reviewers had with the HK/HKC55 on the rail for 2x material, so since the TS 60 can use the FSK rails, it should also solve that problem/complaint.

 

[darita]

OK...I have a TS55 and now a TSC55 KEB.  As far as user experience, the TSC is a generation above the TS55.  It cuts so smoothly and effortlessly compared to the corded version that I haven't used the corded since I got the cordless.  Yes, you still have to hook up the hose, but not having to deal with the cord is gift.  I've had no issues with lack of power.  In addition, the blue tooth batteries are just too convenient.  I'm a hobby woodworker of 30+ years and have a garage shop.