Need design advice for Domino Connectors!

[fritter63]

Hey all, was hoping to get some input on the right way to design some cabinets for the domino connector system.

Project: cubbyhole storage cabinet for the garage. Will be wall mounted up high against the ceiling.
Dimensions: approx 6 feet long, 16" high, 22" deep.

Option 1: "Short Horizontals":  The typical method for doing 32mm cabinets and the domino connectors. Here the horizontal pieces are sandwiched between the vertical ones.
Pros: Just a bunch of equal sized pieces, connectors used (I think) in the position intended, ie, holding the pieces together but the mechanical load is not carried by the friction fit of the connectors. Can install it "in pieces"
Cons: Nothing long enough to keep the cabinet straight, requires that from the installation of each section

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Option 2: "Long Horizontals": Here the vertical members are all the same length and they are sandwiched between two long horizontal pieces,
Pros: Long pieces to keep it straight
Cons: Domino connectors are now carrying the load using only their friction fit, not the mechanical properties of the plywood. Ie, I think they would eventually slip if under too much weight.

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Option 3: "Traditonal": This is how I would build it without the connectors, or with glued dominos, or heck just pocket screws. Two full heigh verticals to hide end grain on the side, then two horizontals sandwiched between those, then even shorter dividers on the interior.
Pros: Long pieces to keep it straight, glue in the dominos is strong (could add pocket screws too).
Cons: Fully assembled cabinet must be hoisted into place for install

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What are your thoughts on how this should be done?

 

[fritter63]

Wow.... tough crowd!

After sleeping on this, I'm thinking it would be good to install a 1x3 ledger board on the wall for the unit to rest on, and then maybe one near the top like a nailer, inset into the verticals. That gives me nice straight lines for the modular install, and also some to fasten each vertical to without having to worry about stud locations.

 

[Birdhunter]

If it were my project, I’d not use connectors. I like your overnight inspiration. You might need a couple of friends to help with the install, but the no-connector plan is simple and produces a strong result.

My experience with both the 500 and 700 connectors is that they need to be paired with a standard tenon.

 

[Michael Kellough]

For wall mounted utility cabinets I’d do as IKEA does. They basically hang the vertical panels from a wall mounted rail using special brackets. It’s quite strong. They sell the hardware for a low price. The horizontal panels that separate the verticals are supported by dowels and the cheap knock-down zinc hardware. The dowels (both wood and zinc) are in shear to the load so plenty strong.

I’d use the Domino hardware the same way but it would cost much more.

 

[fritter63]

For wall mounted utility cabinets I’d do as IKEA does. They basically hang the vertical panels from a wall mounted rail using special brackets. It’s quite strong. They sell the hardware for a low price. The horizontal panels that separate the verticals are supported by dowels and the cheap knock-down zinc hardware. The dowels (both wood and zinc) are in shear to the load so plenty strong.

I’d use the Domino hardware the same way but it would cost much more.

Thanks Michael! Yeah, that sounds similar to my nailer idea. Will have to look into that.

 

[GarryMartin]

If you're building for your garage, and don't intend to flat-pack or disassemble and move, then I'd just go with normal Dominos.

I use an 18mm recess at the back of cupboards for wall mounting and then use Libra H1 concealed cabinet hangers; a pair are good for up to 150KG.

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[Sparktrician]

[member=10223]fritter63[/member], why not go with a french cleat system on that wall so that you can add, delete, move cabinets around as needed to suit your circumstances as they occur?  YMMV... 

 

[fritter63]

[member=10223]fritter63[/member], why not go with a french cleat system on that wall so that you can add, delete, move cabinets around as needed to suit your circumstances as they occur?  YMMV...

Hey Sparky! Well that's an interesting idea. Was hoping to utilize the efficient of shared side panels though.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

If it were my project, I would go for construction option #3, glued Dominos and french cleat for mounting.

 

[SoonerFan]

Another vote for glued dominos (strength) and French cleat for ease of mounting and flexibility to move/add.

 

[jarbroen]

Or option 4:
Full length top and bottom, dado the dividers into the top and bottom and rabbet the ends.
Sounds like a lot of work, but once you set up the router it won’t take longer than the domino.  And it will be rock solid.

You might want to consider making the cubbies shallower.  22” deep means the stuff at the back is hard to reach/get to.

Unless you want to take something apart/reconfigure 8 wouldn’t use the connectors.
They are great for the right application.  I built loft beds for my kids that can be disassembled and moved panel by panel and can be reconfigured.
Anything else I work on gets regular domino or a dado/rabbet.

Also, another vote for French cleats.  You could even make the cubbies individual boxes which would allow you to move them around if you want to reorganize.