new cabinet doors

BPCFinishing

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[attachimg=2]First post in the projects forum.  This is a kitchen that I'm finishing up on Monday.  Built new doors, new tile floor and backsplash and painted cabinets.  This was my first decent sized door project.  Main issue has been some wood having a slight bow resulting in doors pulling away in certain areas either top or bottom...need to work on that.  Will post done close up pics on Monday
 

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[attachimg=2]Fixed the pic for ya!  If you keep the width to less than 1200 pixels, it will show full size on FOG...and upright as well! [big grin]

Cheers,

Frank

[attachimg=1]
 

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heres a before and after pic from a different perspective...these were poplar doors with mdf panels and Sherwin Williams Kem Aqua topcoat[attachimg=1][attachimg=2]
 

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Nice makeover, but the window frame and surroundings should also be colour matched with the kitchen colour or tiles.
It's now a little disturbing.
 
The orange is the wall color that is on the opposite two walls and the whole house is oak trim, but I agree, with the current configuration it does stand out.
 
Maybe you can cover the wall with a wooden frame like the kitchen doors.
And paint all the parts in that area the same colour, like black & white from the kitchen parts.
 
very nice! what material did you use for the door facing and type of paint finishing? spray or brush? thanks
 
I used poplar for rails and stiles and mdf panels and the finish coat is Kem Aqua water based laquer from sherwin williams.  I spray it using a cheap conventional hvlp gravity fed gun I found on amazon for like 40-50 bucks.  I love it!  I do need a larger compressor as I'm running it off my old 5 gal bostitch compressor, but it keeps up with everything but very large doors (pantry).  The Kem Aqua is very easy to work with, water cleanup, and as near to a factory finish as I can replicate in my garage.  Also sands easy to a fine dust.
 
BPCFinishing said:
I used poplar for rails and stiles and mdf panels and the finish coat is Kem Aqua water based laquer from sherwin williams.  I spray it using a cheap conventional hvlp gravity fed gun I found on amazon for like 40-50 bucks.  I love it!  I do need a larger compressor as I'm running it off my old 5 gal bostitch compressor, but it keeps up with everything but very large doors (pantry).  The Kem Aqua is very easy to work with, water cleanup, and as near to a factory finish as I can replicate in my garage.  Also sands easy to a fine dust.

If the sprayer works for you then that is a good deal, and will sure make upgrading your compressor less painful and more satisfying when you do pull that trigger. Nice makeover.
 
Yeah, I wouldn't use that sprayer for anything thicker, I do reduce the surfacer about 5% or so.  The water based lacquers are hard on equipment, so at that price I can afford to swap out guns when needed.  I've been running this one for about 6 months with no issues.  I used to have a capsray unit that I wasn't super fond of and eventually got rid of, didn't really suit me needs at the time.  I ended up using my airless sprayer with a fine finish tip for what I was using the capsray for.
 
a question for everyone....when choosing to do shaker cab doors when do you choose to do or not to do shaker drawers to match? is there a rule of thumb or just preference?
 
Any time I do drawer fronts I do them to match the door style.  IMHO one piece drawer fronts look like an off the shelf, quick solution...of course, unless you're using slab doors.
 
rnt80 said:
Any time I do drawer fronts I do them to match the door style.  IMHO one piece drawer fronts look like an off the shelf, quick solution...of course, unless you're using slab doors.

Tiny panels in drawer fronts look even worse, put on a pull and they border on silly.
 
I agree that small drawers with tiny panels look awkward.  I do slab drawer fronts on (nominal) 6" or shorter drawer fronts, five-piece on anything taller.  I try to use 128mm pulls on most drawers, double pulls on 27" or wider drawers, although that sort of depends on stile width.
 
WarnerConstCo. said:
rnt80 said:
Any time I do drawer fronts I do them to match the door style.  IMHO one piece drawer fronts look like an off the shelf, quick solution...of course, unless you're using slab doors.

Tiny panels in drawer fronts look even worse, put on a pull and they border on silly.

All a matter of taste I suppose. I typically will cut my rails down to 1 1/4 and keep the stiles at 2 3/8. 
 
Here are two pics of my work-in-progress kitchen.  The house is an Atomic Ranch built in 1952, all original.  The cabinets were built in place, too solid to give up (and too expensive to replace) so I chose to replace the doors and drawers, making them flush to the face frame.  Domino and a jig (Peter Parfitt's video) made 28 doors possible for me - not at all a craftsman.  The trick came fitting the new pieces to the face frames which are not perfectly square.  TS55/MFT3 and many trips to the basement for each made it happen.  Yes, the gaps aren't perfectly consistent, but I'm more than satisfied.

The East Wall picture gives you an idea of what I started with, original cabinet doors and finish to the right; I still have to make the drawers.  The two narrow pieces either side of the stove are mine, to fill in the original 42 inch space for stoves popular in the 1950's.  Those doors are just too narrow for frame and panel.

The door frames are either poplar or soft maple, dimensioned from rough cut lumber, and they've held straight through two seasons (best projects are those with no deadlines).  Paint is high quality oil base, applied with a brush.  The panels are 1/4 inch baltic birch ply, painted before the doors were assembled.  I plan to put some tile in behind the stove, eventually . . .
 

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Beverly: I really like the look of your "refurbished" kitchen. Would you mind sharing some build pictures?
 
Thanks for the kind words.  Sorry, don't have any work in progress pictures, two attached show what I started with.  Not sure I was clear in my last post, the only thing that makes this project a challenge is all the new doors/drawers are flush to the (not square) face frame, the originals were simple plywood slabs half overlap.

I have to say that the Festool RO 125 and CT 26 combination have been wonderful!  All cabinets sanded to bare wood without filling the room with dust.
 

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