New Garage Setup - Not Enough Outlets

B

Barrister

Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2011
Messages
1
I'm moving into a new house - a rental. The garage is a newer "yuppie" model with enclosed ceilings and very few outlets. Seriously, after plugging in the water softener and garage door opener, there are only two outlets in the whole garage. One of those will likely be unusable for my shop.

I've already decided that my Delta table saw isn't going to make the trip. So, the core of my shop is going to be a TS55, Kapex, Domino, OF1400 router, assorted Festool sanders, a DeWalt planer, DeWalt jigsaw, Delta jointer, and a router table with a Porter-Cable motor.

So, here's the rub... How many outlets would you recommend? I'm obviously going to have to call an electrician. But, I want to keep the modifications to a minimum. I'd really appreciate any practical advice here. Thanks!

Cheers,

Dave
 
You can never have too many outlets. I have done a couple of shop build-outs installing sub panels and always made sure I had an outlet within six feet of anywhere.

That being said, I would recommend maybe running a circuit along the roof using conduit. Easy to install and easy to remove when you move out. Along with this circuit a couple of boxes and outlets and get a couple of cord reels hanging from the ceiling. These are highly underrated. If you put one smack in the middle of the shop it should be able to get anywhere you need it. Two is even better.

http://www.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-800-30-Foot-Cord-Reel/dp/B000256R9G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1312576290&sr=8-4

41NFVPMW2KL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


You might also consider an additional circuit at ground level for a dust collector/shop vac.

Edit:

I just read through your list of tools. Is your joiner 110 or 220? It probably doesn't matter if you are going to have to do some electrical work. You will want a dedicated outlet for the kapex, joiner, and router table. The other stuff can run off an overhead cord reel.
 
Dave,

First of all  [welcome] to FOG!

Turning a residential rented space into a shop is never easy.

In your list of equipment, you did not mention dust extraction, such as a CT22 or CT26. Your Domino will not work correctly or very long without Festool dust extraction, using a 27mm AS hose. Your TS55 and Kapex also need a CT. A 36mm AS hose is better for them, as it is for the OF 1400.

Almost always under the real estate laws of the various states in the USA, new electrical outlets are considered "permanent" additions, so they become the owners property. Therefore normally a tenant needs permission from the owner prior to such installation. It would be best to have a long enough lease to justify the expense of the new electrical work.

It is best to run the Kapex and associated CT on separate electrical circuits. Assuming you will be using the CT or other dust collection with your joiner and your planer, normally that needs to be on a separate circuit from the machines.
 
I had much of the same problem, except the garage had one 220V line that I did not need.  So I split that and made a couple of 110V (15 or 20A, cant remember) circuits.  One of them I used exclusively for the dust collection machine, which pulls a lot of amps.  That is the only machine I got that will be on at the same time as any other (you can only use the router or the table saw at once unless you have helpers, the the vac is on for all of them).  The other I used for a couple of plugs down a convenient rafter, and to those plugs I connected a short drop-down extension with many connectors (like an octopus) that they sell at home depot.  Having hanging plugs gives you a lot of flexibility about locating your benches and using your tools in the middle of the shop.

Good luck!
 
Good point, Carroll.  Probably the best thing to do in his case would be something like external conduit metal or plastic and multiple boxes with 12 gauge wire conduit rated, tied into a couple of new 20 amp circuits at the box, if possible and by a licensed electrician.  The licensed electrician is the CYA part should anything occur and the homeowner point the finger at the tenant.

I'd also recommend asking permission from the homeowner, first.
 
[welcome] to the fog.

you can never have enough.
in your situation , you dont want to waist money either.
i would do the math and see how having (lets say 5 doubles ) instaled compares to having 2 and using extensions.

you could (i dont know the regs in your country) install the conduit and back boxs and run the wire your self and get the sparky to wire it up. it will save some money. this is what i do at home as it save a lot of money. i have seen people give 2 days wages to a sparky to screw boxs to the wall and run conduit. most people would be able to do it them selfs

personally i have 10 double sockets in my small shop on 2 seperate rings and i think i should ad another 5 or 6 doubles.
if you need permision you should get it , just to covor your self. [wink]
 
My reply will assume that you have enough current available to your tools when you want to use them vs. adding more circuits.

In my office (which handles two companies) which is very electrical outlet dependent I went to Lowe's and bought a 4' plug strip that already had a cord attached.  That worked so well that I bought another and hooked it to my uninterruptible power supply for the key computer components.

I used to have these types of things custom manufactured for the company I worked for in a smaller size.  They are handy.

Peter
 
Inhad the same problem- one 15a circuit with one outlet in the garage. Luckily the main electrical panel is in there, so it was easy enough to pull a new 20a circuit in with a few outlets along one wall in PVC conduit. That's plenty for the cord on my CT, which handles everything I need.
 
Convenient outlets are gold in a workshop.

In re-doing my garage workshop, I setup two dedicated 20a circuits.  *Each* circuit line runs to 6 outlets arrayed fairly evenly around the room, with 2 more of them on the central beam in the middle.  I used two-gang boxes, and have a socket for each circuit, in each box.  That way I can access either circuit. 
I used different color sockets so I can tell easily which circuit is which.  12g solid wire all the way around.  Outlet boxes are at 44" height.  So my cabinets and what-not fit under them, and I never have to pretzel-pose to plug something in behind/under a machine.

I used PVC conduit (there's a specific kind rated for electrical... more crush strength), exposed, with metal boxes, with continuous ground all the way back to the panel.  All told, it cost me about $150.  Almost all of that cost was the copper wire.  Then again, hereabouts homeowners are allowed to do their own electrical work as long as it is inspected by the city (which is almost free).

Works great.  For example I use my tablesaw, major machines and only the white sockets, but with my main 1.5hp DC unit on the brown sockets.  Lights are on a different circuit yet again, so no brown outs with DC on and the tablesaw firing up. 

Now, with all that said.  You said the core of your shop is Festool based.  So you really just need one cord to power your CT, since the tools should most likely be plugged into the CT also, right?  I think Brice Arnold has the right of it:  Get a retractable reel or two in key locations, and you should be able to service any spot of your shop.;
 
First, I have to agree that as a renter, you have certain obligations to your landlord and those should not be underestimated. If you are indeed a Barrister, I guess I'm out of line...

If you are working alone, the potential current draw can be kept in check quite well. Just turn off the machine(s) that isn't(aren't) being used and it(they) won't contribute to the load. Modern machines commonly have a digitally controlled, "soft start" feature so you don't get the inrush current spikes of old. It depends on your equipment.

Convenience is another issue. I agree with those that say you can't have too many outlets. Strategically placed outlets that are fed the proper current or, in some cases, voltage, are a lot better than random placement. For that reason, it pays to think of the logical placement of equipment and how you would like the flow of work to occur. Often it's easier to put power outlets in the floor or ceiling to avoid conflicts with traffic or other impediments.

Tom
 
With all due respect to my Friends and Learned FOG Colleagues, there are times when electrical installation needs to be done by qualified and licensed electrical contractors.

The OP mentioned being a renter of this residence. Consequently he would need the written permission of the owner and the local building inspector to waive the requirement the work be done by the home owner personally. In most jurisdictions the home owner cannot delegate such electrical work to anyone not licensed.

Generally in-the-floor electrical outlets are not considered DIY-legal because of safety considerations. To make such an installation in a garage would normally require trenching the concrete floor. That could be really expensive.

All of my own fixed machines are hard-wired. They all are designed to accept conduit coming down from over head space. Because our shop is so large we have located step-down transformers such that only the basic 480v 3ph power runs more than 100' Each of those transformers, with are mounted high of the side walls, provide 110v and 220v 1ph and 208v 3ph to breaker panels. Serving our movable work tables we do have suspended cable reels for 20a 110v 1ph grounded. A few of the larger work tables which do not move far from their normal position have portable breaker panels made for the motion picture industry. Those accept the 4 wire 208v 3ph grounded feed through flexible cable with appropriate connectors. I freely admit this is an expensive way to bring electricity to my tools, but necessary when the distance to power sources is long.

Our insurance agents, as well as our local building and electrical inspectors, discourage extension cable run on the floor. We are in a city with several movie studios and TV studios, so these same folks are relaxed when we do things in ways similar to the studios.
 
I purchased a heavy duty extension cord that has plugs every six feet or so that runs around the perimeter of my shop.  It is plugged into a 20 amp circuit and I have most of my 110v tools plugged into it.  Since I normally only run one tool at a time it hasn't been a problem.  I have my Kapex connected to my shop DC so don't run it with a Festool vac but would like to - just haven't sprung for a second CT.  Hope that helps.
 
First of all you must know exactly what your lease states. The owner might be a tad upset if you do some mods to his garage  such as add additional outlets.

You cant have to many things plugged into any one particular 15 amp circuit runing at the same time w/o over loading the circuit and tripping the breaker.

So with that being said

I recommend getting 2 additional circuits ran to the garage with additional outlets. That is optimal.

Ghetto version would be a suge protector with a number of plugs and extension cords use one or 2 machines at a time dc/router table .

They might trip the switch on the surge protector but your gonna have to live with it.
 
Buy a heavy duty extension cord that has multiple outlets along it's length.  If you start tripping your breaker then look into getting another circuit or two installed.  I see no reason to upgrade your electrical in a rental with the tools you have assuming that they are all 120v.  Plug your CT directly into the existing outlet to minimize voltage drop from a long extension.  At least with the extension cord you are investing in something you get to keep and can use for years to come.

Your bigger problem is going to be lighting......
 
Well, Almost always under the real estate laws of the various states in the USA, new electrical outlets are considered "permanent" additions, so they become the owners property. Therefore normally a tenant needs permission from the owner prior to such installation. It would be best to have a long enough lease to justify the expense of the new electrical work. Think about it.
 
well this is a 6 year old thread that the poster above me revived, normally since the OP has not been back in 6 years, I would not reply but I take offense to the OP's original post saying a enclosed ceiling is a yuppie garage :) 

My garage was built with scissor joists, skylights and yes its fully insulated, drywalled, painted, etc. and its not a yuppie garage, I am too old to be called a yuppie. :) 

I also did wire it with way too many 110V outlets, way too many 220V outlets, 100 amp sub-panel, too many lights (best to put on your sunglasses when walking into my shop) and of  course living in S. Calif where we can get all the way down to mid-50s sometimes, a nice heater, but its not a yuppie garage :)

Other than that, yes you put in outlets in a rental and the owner owns them when you move out.
 
Maybe you didn't notice but waterguy22 copied word-for-word a segment from a post by ccarroladams on 8-05-11.

He added nothing of any value to it and offered no opinion either.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
Detached Garage into Workshop help
2
Replies
27
Views
5K
Crazyraceguy
Crazyraceguy
S
CT 36 E good enough for my current shop?
2
Replies
33
Views
3K
sawdust-samurai
S
J
New router table wanted
Replies
6
Views
1K
ReneS
R
TSO_Products
TSO New Year Sale: 10% Off TSO, 5% Off UJK, Free Shipping >$99
Replies
0
Views
139
TSO_Products
TSO_Products
friedchicken
Hallo from Texas
Replies
7
Views
881
jayco
J
Back
Top