New here, some questions on the vacuum and saw

endgrain

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Apr 27, 2014
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16
Hi, I'm new here and to festool (three months or so).

1. I have a MIDI vacuum which I use with all my festools. There's a sticker near the receptacle that says "only connect tools rated 3.1 amps maximum to this receptacle." The problem is, all my other festools are rated >3.1 amps (TS55/10A, Kapex/13A, OF1400/11.7A, D500/3.5A). Should I not be plugging in those tools to my (festool) MIDI vac? Will it void the warranty if I do so? The other vacs all had similar amperage rating.

2. The laser on my kapex is out of alignment (already like that when I got it a week ago), the place where I bought it said it had to be calibrated by festool. I'm assuming this is incorrect and I can calibrate the lasers myself rather than send it back?

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3. I've seen some people put tape over the small opening on the TS-saw where the arbor nut is, I assume this is done in order to reduce the dust coming out from that opening.

4. OF1400 sparking inside the motor during use, normal or send for service?

5. Last one, for smaller stock (like a 1x2), to get the best cut (straight and 45 miter) on the kapex, chop or slide?

TIA.

 

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Hello  [smile]

My £0.02 worth....

1. If you use any tool contra to the manufacturers instructions you will void a warranty, best off getting a response direct from Festool on this one.
2. The Festool manual advises on user alignment (9.1).
3. Given the engineering that goes into Festool, not sure I'd mess around with the air flow especially on a product renowned for dust collection in the first place.
4. Personally I wouldn't worry about the odd spark in a brushed motor housing, when new this is normal as the brushes bed in. If it's excessive (and only you can judge that), I'd have a word with your dealer.
5. Surely the answer to that would be in the cut itself? I don't mean that to sound facetious, but if your advised on one method and you find the other works better for you, you are going to go with your own experience.

Others of bigger brain will be along shortly to give a more professional opinion.
 
Welcome

1 ignore the sticker it runs most tools fine. I checked with festool when I bought my 110v UK midi back in 07 and was told to ignore the sticker .

2 yes you can do it yourself. Mine was way out too when I bought it.

3 correct

4 should be ok guessing it's just the brushes bedding in.
 
Welcome to the FOG!

Regarding the amperage load for the CT's, that is a UL labeling situation.  All your tools will work fine without issues to the CT.  There might be times where you pop a circuit breaker due to loads on a house circuit.  Usually you can get past that by turning done the speed on the CT and/or the tool itself.

Yes, dust extraction in some cases can be improved by closing off that hole on a temporary basis.  Another thought would be to print out an index card with metric / imperial equivalents and / or cutting depths both on or off the rail.

Calibrating the lasers can be done by the user.  Here is a link to the supplemental manual put out by Festool USA for the Kapex:  http://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/Kapex-KS120-Supplemental-Manual.pdf  Check out page 28.

I wouldn't be concerned as others have said with some sparking on the 1400.  Mine did it when new then stopped.  If it continues I would contact Festool USA just in case.

Cutting a 1 x 2 would be IMO better with a miter saw.  It can be done with the TS but accuracy of angles will not be built in.  Also, for the best cuts you would normally be using the rail.  Balancing a 55" rail on a 1.5" surface is not something I would want to do often.  You can counter that by using some scrap 1 x material and put one piece both for and aft of the workpiece, but by the time you did all that you could have cut several pieces on the miter saw.

Peter
 
Welcome to Festool!

Here too is my contribution:

1. I find this strange considering Festool is an ecosystem where everything works together in harmony. The ratings on the extractor are far understated for obvious legal issues. I don't think you will melt anything from plugging in the Festool tools you have. However, that being said you should always check with Festool as at the end of the day it is their products. I believe the midi is their baby extractor - usually these are only for the smaller tools such as the sanders.

2. You will see a sticker on left side of the KAPEX that shoes laser adjustments. If you were to peel that sticker off you will see holes with adjustment screws inside that adjust the position of the lasers. They are not meant to be peeled off, instead for it to be punctured and then you can access the correct sized hexagon key for each of the adjustments. This would be the way I would suggest if the KAPEX was out of warranty. If it is still under warranty then for sure, send it to Festool and they will fix it. Don't bother with sending it back to the store you bought it from as they are usually hopeless.

3. Festool extraction is world class and usually patented. You don't need to modify it. In fact, by closing up openings in the case you would actually be restricting air flow and this would reduce the suction on the saw.

4. The sparks occurring in the motor housing is normal. I see it in all my Festool tools and in other power tools too.

5. As the KAPEX is a compound mitre saw, you would do all your cuts in a slide and chop combined motion. If you slide then your going to increase the chances of blow out behind the workpiece and if you shop down you might not get the whole cut in one action. However, in your case as the stock is small, a chopping motion would be fine. Though, the best cuts will always result with having a good zero clearance insert. In fact, this is better for small stock as usually the small off cuts get stuck between the open fences.

I'm hoping this has only added to everything else the forum members here have shared with us.

Enjoy your Festool :)

James
 
jamste said:
Welcome to Festool!

Here too is my contribution:
3. Festool extraction is world class and usually patented. You don't need to modify it. In fact, by closing up openings in the case you would actually be restricting air flow and this would reduce the suction on the saw.
James
It is not true in the case of the TS55 that closing the opening that can access the arbor nut reduces suction, or reduces dust collection. It in fact improves both though the improvement is small.
 
Hi endgrain,

  Welcome to the forum !  [smile]

  A note on dust collection.  Festool actually makes an accessory called the Cover Plate (491750) that covers the arbor nut opening and also extends the lower edge of the housing closer to the work piece surface. It is listed  as an accessory for both the TS55EQ and the REQ. I have been using it on my TS55EQ for years with no suction or air flow problem. And it does improve the DC a little bit.

Seth
 
My mistake... I didn't even know this cover plate even existed. Now that I do, I'm tempted to add it to my next Festool order. I find when I break down MDF or plywood sheets the extraction could be a bit better... I usually use the 36 mm hose and this helps with extraction.

James

 
jamste said:
My mistake... I didn't even know this cover plate even existed. Now that I do, I'm tempted to add it to my next Festool order. I find when I break down MDF or plywood sheets the extraction could be a bit better... I usually use the 36 mm hose and this helps with extraction.

James

+1, never knew that was around.

That's actually quite an extensive dust seal though, not just covering the blade nut;

 
The laser guides are designed to be user adjustable to allow for user preference as to how the laser should highlight, right, left, or center.
 
Thanks everyone.

+1 for the TS55 dust cover accessory, the arbor hole is where most of the dust is coming from when I cut so I will need to check it out, although, I like the idea of the conversion table index card, especially the price.

I've also adjusted the lasers on my kapex so it's now aligned the way I like it.
 
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