New HL850

iamnothim

iamnothim

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Joined
Feb 5, 2014
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1,436
After wanting one for a long time, my HL850 arrived today.
I started with a perfectly straight edge on 5/4 hard maple and made it wavy.  Without using the rustic blade.

This is going to take some practice.  There are several HL850 review videos but nothing that shows how to basically use it.      I think I was focusing too much on keeping the fence against the board.  I think tomorrow I will take the fence off.  Started with .4mm depth

With a hand plane I can see what's going on.  How and where the shavings come off.  I'm closer to the work.  It's gonna take some practice because it didn't come naturally.  Maybe I should buy the rustic blade  [smile]
 
Push down on the front handle to start the cut and once the blade starts cutting transfer the pressure to the back/centre using the main handle, keep it at this point right through to the end. It is better to use a side fence preferably the large one that is available as an accessory.
 
Luke, If you are planing edges, do not remove the fence.  Pixel is right in how he tells you to do it free hand.  Use the same principles when using the bench frame and fence. It does take practice.  I have done several picture frames using the 850 and bench frame with fence.  The first trials did not come out parallel, but the edges were straight.  With practice, a piece that had parallel sides when i started ended up >>> with parallel sides.  I do not try planing anything shorter the 12". 

I have tried using the 850 free hand using no fence as I do using a hand plane.  with hand plane, i use the side of my finger against the side of the board to keep the plane square (I am out of practice now as it has been a looooonnnng time) That ain't such a great plan when using a power plane. There is a fence that I think came with the plane, but I have never used it.  I like the bench frame.  Once you get the hang of using that for squaring an edge, it is fairly easy to get the feel to plane bevels.  A whole new design feature that can be fun.

When you use your hand plane, you do basically the same thing as Pixel explained about using the 850.  Most WW'ers, if using a jointer, are using something with a longer bed.  I learned on a bench mounted jointer that was not much bigger than the 850 bench frame, so, even tho it was way back in the 40's the last time I used one, the 850 frame was not a problem being so short.

I have all 4 of the planer heads.  I have not tried the rustic yet, but have gotten some interesting results with the other two heads.

The main thing to keep in mind is to not try planing pieces that are too short and/or to thin.  Don't ask how i know. try that and the results can be quite spectacular.
Tinker
 
Luke:
Practice.
The 850 is a bit unwieldy, particularly on edges less than 1".
Tim
 
iamnothim said:
... I started with a perfectly straight edge on 5/4 hard maple and made it wavy.  Without using the rustic blade.
Click to expand...

Luke, you made my day with that comment! Actually LOL'd.

Been there, done that - or something similarly uncraftsmanlike! [embarassed]
 
As with most new tools there is learning curve. I suggest getting the full length fence (angle stop) I believe they call it. Plus the bench attachment. With the bench you can edge joint pieces 12" ad smaller.
There are some very good videos.

Scott has a nice review video (2) and Shane recently posted a good vdieo that we over the operation and adj.

I bought mine a while ago. I didnt use it much. But once I started using it along with the bench stand, Ive been getting a lot of use out of it.

Per Svenson has a nice how to pictorial on the 850 as well.
 
Tinker said:
Luke, If you are planing edges, do not remove the fence.  Pixel is right in how he tells you to do it free hand.  Use the same principles when using the bench frame and fence. It does take practice.  I have done several picture frames using the 850 and bench frame with fence.  The first trials did not come out parallel, but the edges were straight.  With practice, a piece that had parallel sides when i started ended up >>> with parallel sides.  I do not try planing anything shorter the 12". 

I have tried using the 850 free hand using no fence as I do using a hand plane.  with hand plane, i use the side of my finger against the side of the board to keep the plane square (I am out of practice now as it has been a looooonnnng time) That ain't such a great plan when using a power plane. There is a fence that I think came with the plane, but I have never used it.  I like the bench frame.  Once you get the hang of using that for squaring an edge, it is fairly easy to get the feel to plane bevels.  A whole new design feature that can be fun.

When you use your hand plane, you do basically the same thing as Pixel explained about using the 850.  Most WW'ers, if using a jointer, are using something with a longer bed.  I learned on a bench mounted jointer that was not much bigger than the 850 bench frame, so, even tho it was way back in the 40's the last time I used one, the 850 frame was not a problem being so short.

I have all 4 of the planer heads.  I have not tried the rustic yet, but have gotten some interesting results with the other two heads.

The main thing to keep in mind is to not try planing pieces that are too short and/or to thin.  Don't ask how i know. try that and the results can be quite spectacular.
Tinker
Click to expand...

Tinker,
Somehow I thought I would have more control running and 18" bed along the edge of an 8' board rather than an 8' board across an 18" bench unit surface.  I think I'll start with the angle stop.  I should have known, with Festool the accessories always kill you ($).

Pixel said:
Push down on the front handle to start the cut and once the blade starts cutting transfer the pressure to the back/centre using the main handle, keep it at this point right through to the end. It is better to use a side fence preferably the large one that is available as an accessory.
Click to expand...
Pixel,
Naturally I read the manual After posting.  It talks about the technique you described.  Shortly I will begin to fill some CT26 bags.

jobsworth said:
As with most new tools there is learning curve. I suggest getting the full length fence (angle stop) I believe they call it. Plus the bench attachment. With the bench you can edge joint pieces 12" ad smaller.
There are some very good videos.
Scott has a nice review video (2) and Shane recently posted a good vdieo that we over the operation and adj.
I bought mine a while ago. I didnt use it much. But once I started using it along with the bench stand, Ive been getting a lot of use out of it.
Per Svenson has a nice how to pictorial on the 850 as well.
Click to expand...
jobsworth,
I searched FOG and YouTube and couldn't find anything from from Per, Scott or Shane.  If I may trouble you for the links.

Thanks to everyone.  As always, FOG to the rescue.

Luke
 
Luke,

It is not my technique it is THE technique for straitening out boards.

Another technique is to make sure you set the cutting depth correct, put a staight edge along the edge and lets say the undulations are 2mm, set the cutter to 2.5mm and tour edge will be as straight as a die, if the undulations are outside the scope of the planer, first remove the high points until the edge is within the scope.

Another thing is don't fill you bags, get a cyclone unit which will pay for itself within a year.

If you do buy the bench unit you'll need a couple of these.

http://static.axminster.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/1/0/100052_xl.jpg
 
Pixel said:
Luke,

It is not my technique it is THE technique for straitening out boards.

Another technique is to make sure you set the cutting depth correct, put a staight edge along the edge and lets say the undulations are 2mm, set the cutter to 2.5mm and tour edge will be as straight as a die, if the undulations are outside the scope of the planer, first remove the high points until the edge is within the scope.

Another thing is don't fill you bags, get a cyclone unit which will pay for itself within a year.

If you do buy the bench unit you'll need a couple of these.

http://static.axminster.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/1/0/100052_xl.jpg
Click to expand...

For us dull tools... please give me a bit more clarification...  Let's say a 2000 mm board has several 1mm - 2mm valleys.  Further let's say the ends are low too.    I set the depth on the HL850 for 2.5mm and run the entire length of the board....  Or, do I mark the beginning and end of the center belly and start planing the middle there first?

In "attacking" high spots.... I presume I start moving the plane first... touch the toe first... and follow with the heal.

I think that accessory is in the Not Available in North America category.

I looked into the Dust Deputy and Cyclone some time back.  I got a bit nervous when reading about possible issues from using static hoses.

Many Thanks
Luke
 
Not easy to explain in writing but here goes

You have an 8' piece of timber and the edge is wavy, put on a straight edge  and if the maximum hollow is 2mm set the cut depth to 2mm +, this will ensure the front face of the base is above the high spots and will cut out the undulations because you are keeping the rear face pushed down on the new flat edge.

If the timber is bowed then start your first planing in from the end and stop before the other end, continue this until the bow is below say 3mm thus allowing you to set the cutter to 3mm+

hope this helps, try it out a few times and you will begin to understand it better.
 
I got a straight edge !!
Thanks!

My only trepidation is using it when you have the stock near the width you need and then screwing up the edge trying to make it better. 
 
I use a straight edge and mark the high spots, or high area and then plane what seems reasonable.  i check with straight edge again and plane again trying to hit only what is high.
Sometimes, I just sight along the edge or face, which ever i am trying to straighten.  I mark with pencil what I perceive to be slightly higher than the low points.  When i have planed to he pencil lines, i check again and mark.  Soon the board has no place to mark as there are no low points.

I use a slightly different approach to the planing part.  I am not so skillful that I feel comfortable working with 3mm depth of cutter.  About 1.5mm is quite enough for me.  As I get closer to the marks, I skim with only 1mm or less.  I find i can do lots of damage with 3mm depth of cut.  When i get close, I put the 850 aside, unless using the bench frame, and finish off with a hand plane.  I am much more comfortable with that. 

If I am in a hurry, and not so curious about advancing my skills with planing, i just set up the TS 55 and guide rail and cut straight.  I have yet to NOT get an edge that is glueable with that method.  I am getting better with the 850 tho. It will take more time before i am comfortable planing to a finished edge using it.  [unsure]
Tinker
 
Here is a link to one of the videos I did on this planer. There is a testimonial video as well, but this shows some of the different applications with the bench unit.

 
FWIW I tend to use the track saw for dealing with the edge of a board with minor irregularities [wink]

 
jobsworth, Thankyou for finding that vid from Per Swenson. Per has always shown great vids and i like his humor. In the discussions above, i had forgotten to mention using the winding stick/square to sight a board.  I have used winding sticks (never used a square that way, but that wood offer an additional confirmation to the process.) often and they work.  I have not had to do that lately with all small projects, but the method does work.

I also have never used chalk for marking.  I think that wood be much better than using pencil marking as I have done in the past.  I have learned something. 
Tinker
 
Im sure I dont have to mention this, But when You use the angle stop be sure to take a square and make sure its perpendicular (like that big word ) to the base.

Once ya get used to it you'll be a happy camper. When I get back too the states and get my US sized shop back, Im gonna set up thhe bench attachment and leave the planer in it. Yes its that good :>D
 
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