New Kapex going back for service

[broconne]

Hi -
I have had a Festool TS55 for a while and have started expanding my collection to the Kapex which arrived on Wednesday.  I ran into three issues already and called Festool and it has to go back for service.  While I am sending it back, I wanted to check and see some wisdom from here if there are other things I should check/ask them to fix since it is going back.

I had two things break on my Kapex after light use.  The first is that my transport lock pin is bent at almost 60 degrees.  It wasn't bent when it arrived, it has transported nowhere but my workbench.  I asked how this could get bent and the technician said kickback could cause it to bend, but I haven't had any kickback that sent a part flying.  Is there some sort of operator error that could cause me to have bent the transport lock?  I just don't want to bend it again after I get it back.

The second part that broke on me is the clamp.  I pulled it up (not hard) and the foot came off which made the entire rod come out.  After putting the rod back in, the foot doesn't stay up and always falls down to the lowest position.

When the kapex arrived, my 4 cut method for the miter was measuring in at .13 - creating some pretty bad miters.  I have adjusted it down to .006. However, I am noticing some that when I do the two cut test like in this video (https://youtu.be/huv6tLe_TV4?t=246) the piece of wood on the right hand side is always proud compared to the left hand side.  Any idea what would cause that?

Lastly, and I didn't check this with my feeler gauge yet to get the exact amount but the cutting surface of the saw is not flat. There is a fair amount of light that gets through on both sides as you get closer to the cutout for the insert.  Should that be totally flat?

Is there anything else I should check since I am sending this back for repair anyway?  I don't want to send it back, and then find out that I need something else repaired to get accurate cuts.

 

[ChuckM]

Hope you'll get your saw properly fixed so you can enjoy the awesome machine.

I have had no experience with a bent lock pin. Has there ever been a kickback to your saw? If yes, that would be the most likely cause as advised by the Festool techinican.

The hold-down clamp is defective, and Festool will either fix it or replace it. Not sure what you meant by the piece on the right side is always proud. The bed should be flat across within tolerance, but I don't know what the factory tolerance is, something Festool should be able to tell you.

Finally, also check that a) the fence is straight, b) the fence is square to the table, and c) the bevel cuts are accurate.

If there're too many issues with this machine, and its return policy hasn't expired, consider exchanging it for a new unit than sending it in for a repair.

 

[broconne]

Thanks for the reply!

No, no kickback on my machine so I am not sure how the pin got bent?

Not sure what you meant by the piece on the right side is always proud.

Let me explain, what I mean.  My steps are:
(1) Take a piece of 1/2" plywood that is 6 inches wide and perform a cross cut.
(2) Take the right side of that plywood, and flip it such that part of the wood that was towards you is now up against the fence.
(3) Push the two pieces of wood together
(4) Run your finger across the seam created by the cut

Whenever I do this, the cut on the right hand side of the saw which is not closer tot he fence is higher off the table than the cut on the left hand side of the saw. It is also higher closer to me, but less so.

The fence appears to be straight/flat, the fence appears to be square to the table (I am just using a machinist square).  I have not yet check with the 4 cut method for the bevel yet, I will do that.

 

[ChuckM]

What wood did you use? Ply? After the crosscut, did the wood stay flat? If the wood bent slightly, one piece could sit proud. Were you examining the pieces on a flat surface (rather than on the miter saw table)?

I mean bevel angles not miter angles. Just set the bevel angle, make the cut and check the bevel. I don't know how the 4-cut method can apply to it.

 

[broconne]

What wood did you use? Ply? After the crosscut, did the wood stay flat? If the wood bent slightly, one piece could sit proud. Were you examining the pieces on a flat surface (rather than on the miter saw table)?

I tried it with 1/2 ply, 3/4 MDF and then some solid scrap of poplar.  I got the same result with all three.  I move the pieces over to my table saw which is dead flat to examine them.

I mean bevel angles not miter angles. Just set the bevel angle, make the cut and check the bevel. I don't know how the 4-cut method can apply to it.

The supplemental manual has instructions for how to use the 4-cut method to calibrate your bevel angle.  I haven't checked the bevel angle at all yet - my goal was to dial in the miter angel first.  I will check/calibrate the bevel angle and see if that changes anything. 

Thanks!

 

[nanoqx]

Hello, I didn't have any of the other issues but mine did cut different on the right side from the left side. Long story short, I calibrated it when I got it, PITA, to cut spot on the left side as that's the side I usually cut from. And it should then also be calibrated on the right side, right? I mean there isn't a separate calibration for either side. So, I went along for a few months, and all was well until I tried to cut on the right side to find it was off. I measured and checked everything to find all kinds of things I thought were problems (see pic). I sat on it for almost two years knowing I could send it in, and it was cutting fine from the left side. I finally sent it in a few weeks ago with the pic and a long description and a board cut showing the cuts it's making. I called and talked to a service Rep. and said that there was no way it was going to come back without parts being replaced. He said to just let them take a look at it and they'll see what it needs. Well, when it came back all they did was "calibrate" it. And guess what? It cuts "Perfect"! I called the Rep. back to find out they have a "jig" they use to calibrate as well as a ton of experience. The "Tap and Prey" method we have to use is a joke, Festool should have put an adjustment screw there, so you make incremental moves. Anyway, forget about the measurements and look at the cut results when it comes back.
All the Best,
Chuck

 

[sancho57]

a little late to this converastion it may not solve the OPs issue either.

But I was having difficulties mitering at 45 and even getting accurate cross cuts. Allan Kensely who no longer works for Festool and it the best I know other the Thom Baden and Don Ware with these tools has move near me. We are friends so he helps me alot on setting up my tools.

I tried everything I knew including You Tube , the Owners manual, etc etc to try to correct this issue. Even manually adjusting it IAW what the manual says.

Well Allan told me that during shipping, slamming stock against the fence, kick back etc the fence will move.

What he told me was that there are 2 bolts on the back side of EACH fence.

He said to loosen them and they will pop back into place if they did move because of kick back etc.

I loosened on of the 2 on each fence and they didpop back into place. it was pretty noticable to.

Like I said this may not solve your problem.

But it did solve mine.

He also came over to my shop, he cut some stuff on my Kapex and my lasers were about a MM out so he showed me how to adj them and now they are dead on.

I think FT screw the pooch letting him go

 

[ChuckM]

Snip. Anyway, forget about the measurements and look at the cut results when it comes back.
All the Best,
Chuck

Because the woods we use vary in their conditions, depending on how well or when they are prepared. Even if the cut results are perfect on one batch of workpieces, it doesn't necessarily mean the same results will be obtained in the next batch of cuts. The measurements are a good starting point, just don't be over obsessed with them. And yes, what really counts is how the cuts turn out to be.

 

[xedos]

I'd suggest you not send it to festool , but rather back to the dealer and return it under the 30 satisfaction guarantee.

Let Festool fix their mess on their time - not yours.