New Kapex shattering Oak shoe molding

[JLB builders LLC]

I have had the Kapex, Festool 60 tooth bade, nothing changed on it, as shipped from factory,for a little over a week and doing a trim job with FJ Base primed and Finished Stained Shoe molding. Cutting the Base was great, perfect miters and no splintering. When I cut the Oak shoe it likes to grab it and shatter 1-4 inches. I slowed the blade down to 3 ish (tried all speeds) and it eased up some but still did it. I ripped a piece of 3/4 oak flooring down to about 2 inches, removing the T&G and used that against the fence flat and placed my oak shoe against that as a sort of zero clearance. The problem still exist (even tried clamping the material) but not as much. I had to get out my Beast of a Bosch 12 inch miter saw to do most of the shoe. Even my little 8 1/4 baby Delta miter saw doesn't do that.

The Bosch has an 80 tooth fine cut blade. I bought the Kapex to eliminate the Bosch, damn thing weights 70# with the stand bracket.

Anyone have any idea why this happens? I cut slow, wait for the blade to come up to speed and wait for it to stop before raising it back up. Ive been doing trim for almost 25 years, I'm not new at this.  Very annoying not to mention it scares the crap out of me and I check my fingers.

 

[tiralie]

To avoid this, and seriously spraining a finger, when I cut brittle or thin stock, I lock down the slider and use it like a chop saw.
Hope this helps.
Tim

 

[tjbier]

It's not funny but LOL. I know what you mean, gotta go clean the shorts.  [eek]
My crappy 10" Ridgid is notorious for doing it, I stopped using it. Are you using the saw as a slide or chop?

 

[JLB builders LLC]

I locked the slider. Also tried it radial saw style. I have an idea why and talked with Bob Marino on the phone today but I want to see what support says and you guys first.

 

[JLB builders LLC]

It's not funny but LOL. I know what you mean, gotta go clean the shorts.  [eek]
My crappy 10" Ridgid is notorious for doing it, I stopped using it. Are you using the saw as a slide or chop?

Yeah kind like being gun shy. You know it might happen….Wait…..wait……wait…. ah good made it through that cut then the next cut ….BAM!  [eek]

 

[tiralie]

It's not funny but LOL. I know what you mean, gotta go clean the shorts.  [eek]
My crappy 10" Ridgid is notorious for doing it, I stopped using it. Are you using the saw as a slide or chop?

Yeah kind like being gun shy. You know it might happen….Wait…..wait……wait…. ah good made it through that cut then the next cut ….BAM!  [eek]

Ya, it sucks. You do look around to make sure everything is still attached.
Those sticks just explode!
Let us know what you find out.
Thanks
Tim

 

[tiralie]

Yeah kind like being gun shy. You know it might happen….Wait…..wait…wait…. ah good made it through that cut then the next cut ….BAM!  [eek]

Exactly! Then the rest of the crew comes over and says WTF are you doing with all those toothpicks...

 

[Alan m]

i have never had an problems with any of my saws. dewalts .
i presume the shoe moulding is a quadrant or quarter round.
is it real wood or foil wraped mdf.
i would make a little jig from2x stock with a rebate (sorry rabit for tha yanks) just a hair less than the height of the moulding . as the 2x is clamped it will clamp down on the moulding and stop it from being caught. and give cleaner cuts.

 

[vwdave]

It used to happen to me when I cut hardwood scribe moldings while installing kitchens. I needed to slow the saw speed down and I made a zero clearance fence that I attach when doing small moldings like that.

 

[JLB builders LLC]

i have never had an problems with any of my saws. dewalts .
i presume the shoe moulding is a quadrant or quarter round.
is it real wood or foil wraped mdf.
i would make a little jig from2x stock with a rebate (sorry rabit for tha yanks) just a hair less than the height of the moulding . as the 2x is clamped it will clamp down on the moulding and stop it from being caught. and give cleaner cuts.

The Shoe molding is 1/2 by 3/4 and quarter round is 3/4 by 3/4. It stands up along the base with out sticking out as far. Nicer profile in my opinion. I like that idea

It used to happen to me when I cut hardwood scribe moldings while installing kitchens. I needed to slow the saw speed down and I made a zero clearance fence that I attach when doing small moldings like that.

yeah I going to make the zero clearance fence and bottom plate.

 

[tiralie]

i have never had an problems with any of my saws. dewalts .
i presume the shoe moulding is a quadrant or quarter round.
is it real wood or foil wraped mdf.
i would make a little jig from2x stock with a rebate (sorry rabit for tha yanks) just a hair less than the height of the moulding . as the 2x is clamped it will clamp down on the moulding and stop it from being caught. and give cleaner cuts.

I don't have the same problem with my 20 year old chop saw, go figure. I will try the jig. Last time this happened I was cutting a small profile about 1/2 x 3/4 very dry poplar molding.
tim

 

[vwdave]

I just made a zero clearance back plate held on with 2 screws per side. I install them whenever I do the small delicate moldings. You will feel much more confident with them on.
Dave

 

[JLB builders LLC]

yeah i have a Hitachi 8 1/2 compound radial, Bosch 12" Beast, Little 8 1/4 Delta feels like it weighs 2 pounds and had a dewalt 12" without having this problem before. ??? I really do not want to keep either the Hitachi or Bosch in the trailer, Im trying to clean it out and up lol. Just bought 5 Systainers and the dolly and Wow it really helped get rid of a few tool cases, toolbox and buckets, a lot more room.

 

[JLB builders LLC]

i have never had an problems with any of my saws. dewalts .
i presume the shoe moulding is a quadrant or quarter round.
is it real wood or foil wraped mdf.
i would make a little jig from2x stock with a rebate (sorry rabit for tha yanks) just a hair less than the height of the moulding . as the 2x is clamped it will clamp down on the moulding and stop it from being caught. and give cleaner cuts.

I don't have the same problem with my 20 year old chop saw, go figure. I will try the jig. Last time this happened I was cutting a small profile about 1/2 x 3/4 very dry poplar molding.
tim

Did you make a jig to finish or just grin and bear it?

 

[tiralie]

...I just locked the saw down and used it like a chop saw and all went well.
The guys using a Dewalt didn't have any problems other than having to go up and down the stairs 'cause their saw would have sent dust all over the clients house we were working on.

 

[mastercabman]

You just need a backer board.Keep it high rpm and don't cut too slow.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

You just need a backer board.Keep it high rpm and don't cut too slow.

Bingo.

 

[ccmviking]

Just bevel cut instead of miter cutting it.  I have the same issue with mitering some small scribe moldings.  They never do it when beveling (tilt the saw head over).

Chris...

You just need a backer board.Keep it high rpm and don't cut too slow.

Bingo.

 

[JLB builders LLC]

I will try both of those ideas. Thanks for all the help. ~Jamie

 

[Michael Kellough]

It comes down to the angle of the teeth when they encounter the stock. More closely spaced teeth reduces the tendency to grab the stock but changing the tooth angle is best. If I remember correctly the Kapex teeth are approaching very small stock like that at a lifting angle in either chop or slide mode because the Kapex has a higher and more forward pivot point in addition to a smaller diameter blade than most SCMS.

All you need to do is move the stock out to a point around the middle of the miter table where the angle of the teeth will be pushing the stock down rather than lifting. A shim of around 4" should do it. If you move the saw out out just a little and lock the slide so the shim isn't cut completely in two it will also function as a zero clearance fence, which will also help.

By fine tuning the depth of the shim (depth from front of shim to back, not thickness) and the pivot point of the saw head so that there is less downward force from the tooth angle you can reduce tearout on the bottom of the stock. The shim itself will stop tearout on the backside.