New style splinter guard on guide rail

[Sean_C_G]

Hello all, yesterday I took delivery of (among other things!) a second FS1400/2 guide rail from Bob Marino. Interestingly, the guide rail came with what Bob tells me is a new style of splinter guard. I'm not able to post a picture right now, but I will do so later.

EDIT: Here is a photo of an LR32 Rail with the old style splinterguard connected to the FS1400/2 with the new splinterguard just prior to trimming them: 

[attachimg=1]

The spark plug gap gauge that you see is used to check that the rails are not cocked after I make an initial lining-up. I line up the rails with a TS55 spanned across them, and then I tighten the rail gibs (a technique which I read about on this forum: Thanks!). I use the .045" gauge (approx. 1.1mm), both to get my initial distance between the rails and also to make sure that I have a uniform gap across their widths.

The new guard is firmer and more durable than the older style. It is also slighter thicker: I measured it to be about 2.2mm thick with my Mitutoyo caliper vs the 1.9mm thickness of the previous guard. The new guard is held on to the underside of the rail by what appears to be a layer of double adhesive tape. As Bob pointed out to me, its additional durability should offer a more consistent reference edge against which to position the rail.

 

[Notorious T.O.D.]

Sounds interesting and thanks for posting the information.

I assume then that this new and improved material is or will be available in replacement rolls to replace/update the existing splinte guard on our rails if we so choose...part number and cost any one?

Best,
Todd

 

[Bob Marino]

Sounds interesting and thanks for posting the information.

I assume then that this new and improved material is or will be available in replacement rolls to replace/update the existing splinte guard on our rails if we so choose...part number and cost any one?

Best,
Todd

Yes, they will be available here a bit later this year (I think they are "on the boat" and will come in 2 lengths. Also, the adhesive affixing the guard to the rail has been "improved".

Bob

 

[Frank-Jan]

I got one a few weeks ago, and I like it. I got the festool- springtime flyer in the mail today, the flyer says the improvement of the adhesive would be that it's easier to replace a worn strip (luckily I haven't tried that yet, but I did notice there is no glue residue on the exposed part of the strip)

 

[Loz_S]

....I assume then that this new and improved material is or will be available in replacement rolls to replace/update the existing splinte guard on our rails if we so choose...part number and cost any one?

Splinter guard FS-SP 1400/T  (1.4m)  cat# 495207  EUR 8,60 ex VAT
Splinter guard FS-SP 5000/T  (5m)      cat# 495209  EUR 21,10 ex VAT

 

[John Langevin]

Do the new strips make it any easier to see and align to your marks?

 

[Frank-Jan]

Yes, a bit, I think that's reason they went for the transparant rubber. It's especially handy if you need to leave the mark (saw on the outside of the line)

 

[Sean_C_G]

Sorry about the delay in posting the photo. The material is definitely tougher than the old material; when I was trimming the guards of the two rails that you see, there was a definite change in pitch when the saw bit into the new guard. I double checked to make sure that I wasn't somehow cutting the rail!

My first impressions are also positive, Frank-Jan. There is no "sponginess" to this guard that will make you want to double check your rail line-up. Again, still early, but the new splinterguard does seem to do its intended job well.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Now here is a new accessory I can buy without feelings of guilt! Thanks!

Can I ask, does using the spark plug gap tool help assure your rails are straight when joined? I have had some difficulties lining up a straight line with two joined rails while ripping 4x8 sheets. I suspect there is some pivoting going on and it is a little tricky to get right. I do it so rarely I'd really prefer not to buy a $250 rail.

Here's how I join rails, http://www.burrellcustomcarpentry.com/gpage4.html

 

[Sean_C_G]

Hi Deke, when I use the gap gauge, I'm working off the assumption that the edges of the guide rails are square. If the guide rail edges are square (which I've found to be so), then so long as I have a uniform gap between the rails, they'll be lined up straight.  When I do this, I check the gap at three points: each edge, and in the middle. Then I slide the gauge in the gap across the width of the rails. In my (limited) experience, this has worked well for me, based on initially checking with a long straight edge just "to be sure to be sure." Of course, as Brice Burrell's neat animation shows, a long straight edge works very well, but I don't think checking the gap is a bad idea either.

One advantage to using a gapping gauge is that it's a reliable, inexpensive (if you change your car's plugs, you probably already have one) and fairly quick alternative to using a long level or even a straight panel edge as a reference. A disadvantage I think to relying solely on a gap gauge (without also using a straight edge) is that if you aren't consistent in how you gauge the gap at different points, any error will be magnified by the length of the rail. Also, I guess you could still have a problem where there is a consistent gap between the rails, yet still have axial misalignment, but I haven't found that to be the case, probably because tightening down on the TS55 rail gibs takes care of that. I think using a long feeler gauge across the width of the rails where they join will give you an even more reliable means of checking the gap, and therefore the alignment.

EDIT: After cleaning up for the night, I just checked three rails (2 55" and 1 42") for square at their ends. Of the 6 ends, 5 were square, but one was slightly out. The rail that had an end out of square was the end opposite of where I usually connect. So, just using a gapping gauge may not always work unless you are certain of being square. So much for assumptions.

 

[Alko]

Interesting thread! I also got the new style transparent splinter guard on the 1400 guide rail bought yesterday. Do you think it is ok to connect it to my old 1400 rail with the black old style splinter guard, or would the 0,3 mm thickness difference be a problem?

Best regards/
Alejandro, Sweden

 

[jakiiski]

Interesting note on the different thicknesses - the Makita splinter guard (to which they apparently do not have a replacement for!) is also 2.25 mm thick. Does the difference in the thickness impact the cutting angle, i.e. the previous 90 degree cut you made - will it still be 90 degrees or slightly more? I.e. is the track still fully parallel to the surface you are cutting?