Do I need Parallel side fence FS-PA / FS-PA-VL combo? Parallel fence options discussion

sebna

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Jul 30, 2025
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Hi All,

I'm planning to buy the TS 60 as my first track saw. I'm a novice/hobbyist, and I have an upcoming project that will require breaking down several plywood sheets to build cabinets.

I'm currently trying to decide whether I need the Parallel Side Fence FS-PA / FS-PA-VL combo, or if I can get by without it.

My initial plan was to:
  • Get 2x 1400 mm rails
  • Use the FS-WA Angle Stop and FS-WA-VL Guide Extension for reliable cross-cuts

    For rip cuts I have few questions:
  1. Can I simulate the Parallel Side Fence FS-PA setup by using two Angle Stop FS-WAs , attached to both ends of the joined 1400 mm rails and locked to 90° angle? Would that, along with the FS-WA-VL Guide Extension, give me similar functionality to the Parallel Side Fence FS-PA / FS-PA-VL combo? This seems like a cheaper alternative, but would it be accurate and practical?

  2. Alternatively, if I don't plan on making mitre cuts, could I just get the FS-PA / FS-PA-VL Parallel Side Fence combo and use it for both cross-cuts and rip cuts? Would that setup be more efficient overall (and perhaps more accurate) than the WA set if I had to choose only one setup to start with?

  3. For full sheet rips, is using two joined 1400 mm rails (2800 mm total) sufficient and stable enough, or is the 3000 mm guide rail necessary for accuracy and convenience? Also, would the Parallel Side Fence FS-PA / FS-PA-VL combo still make sense if I’m only using it with joined up 2x 1400 mm rails?

  4. Can the Parallel Side Fence FS-PA and FS-PA-VL combo be bought as a set? I haven’t been able to find them bundled. If anyone knows of a part number or link for the combo, I'd really appreciate it.
Reference links:

Thanks
 
My quick thoughts, I have a bunch of 1400 rails, if I was doing it over I would get a single 1400 and a 3000 (which I still plan to get). Joining the rails is a PITA to me. I find far more often if I need to do long rips I use a 3m straight edge and run the saw against it.

So far as the fence, I never really used one much at all, but funnily enough ever since I got my HK85 I use it with it quite often.

I have the Angle Stop and it's currently collecting dust as I've never used it. I know others find it invaluable, but it just hasn't been of use to me.

What has been awesome though, is the FSK rail, I love that thing, and it such a time saver for repeat cuts, I'll be getting the larger one at some point as I use it so much.

Btw, congrats on the TS60 selection, what an awesome bit of kit! I'm holding out a bit longer in case they release a cordless version, otherwise I'll be pulling the trigger on it!
 
The FS WA is a key accessory in my opinion, but getting repeatable accurate rips will need some rails with a stop that you can set at the same width. And you would likely need two FSWA's to connect the rails. If you take time you can get accurate results cutting on your mark with just the rail. I would look for PG to give you accurate and repeatable ripping. I am not sure how many angle cuts you are planning to do to justify the protractor and something I would think through before buying it.
 
I had the FS WA and liked it at first. The first time I set it to 90 degrees it was perfect. Later I set it at 45 degrees and it was not spot on. When I tried 90 degrees again it was off. There was too much play in the preset angle system. The other issue is that mine did not sit flat on the board when clamped on to the track.
I do mostly 90 degree cuts, so I got the TSO version. Dead on at 90 degrees every time I have used it. I don't even check it now. I think the TSO parallel guide system is much better then the Festool version as well. YMMV
 
I meant the 90 degree version...which is the TSO that I too use and find amazing. I personally have never found a need to cut repeatable angles and so don't know how useful the angled version is and it sounds like their are challenges with repeat accuracy.

 
I've got the TS55 FEQ with a couple 1400 rails and the FS-PA-VL. And while I do like the FS-PA-VL, I hardly ever have the need to use them.

That being said, I don't work with sheet goods much at all. I mostly work with rough sawn lumber, dimension it down and make furniture.

In your case, I would evaluate how many sheets you're going to be working with. If it's a lot, then it could be worth it to spend the extra cash for the 3000 rail and start from there. This will give you a 1400 rail for crosscuts and 3000 for the rip cuts on the sheets. I find that I can get great results from measuring, marking and careful placement of the rail. If you're a little worried about rail drift, you can get a set of clamps. But I would start there, build a cabinet or two - get a feel for your needs and then decide if the FS-PA-VL and other accessories will help your workflow.
 
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