New Table Saw- Looking for Advice

unclefester

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Jul 30, 2013
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I'm looking to upgrading my table saw. I would prefer to keep it at 120v
Any comments on a cabinet saw or SawStop?
I'm a hobby woodworker so I do not need a large production machine.

Any feed back on pros and cons would be appreciated.
 
From the safety standpoint alone, I'd sure look at the SawStop. Anything that could help you keep your digits if you make a careless mistake is a good deal...
 
Sawstop has a 110V 1.75HP version of their Professional Cabinet Saw (PCS).

As an original beta tester of the PCS, I will tell you I have never had any negative issues, and I have never heard of anyone who has had buyer remorse on a Sawstop.

It isn't just about the safety brake feature either. The fit and finish is unparalleled and dust collection is superb. 

Highly recommended.

Cheers,

Frank
 
Take a look at Sawstop contractor saw. Same quality as their big saw but easier to move around. If I was going to use a table saw this would be it. I personally know of four table saw accidents and I do this as a hobby. Track saws for me from now on.
 
I am leaning towards the PCS SawStop.  I m wondering if the ICS is overkill for a hobbiest.  I have an Incra. TS Ls 54. Will it work with the SawStop or is this a mistake?
I do not have 220 in my shop so I'm wondering about the difference between the performance of 110 vs 220.
 
unclefester said:
I am leaning towards the PCS SawStop.   I m wondering if the ICS is overkill for a hobbiest.  I have an Incra. TS Ls 54. Will it work with the SawStop or is this a mistake?
I do not have 220 in my shop so I'm wondering about the difference between the performance of 110 vs 220.

Biggest difference with the 110V is the motor is 1.75HP vs 3HP on the 220.  ICS might indeed be overkill, and you must have 220V.

Incra....YES!!  Absolutely the best addition to the saw! [tongue]

Here's a picture of my PCS when it was first "kitted" out and dressed up. Incra fence and router table extension, and Incra miter sled.
Don't wait....get it! [big grin]

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Unclefester,
    I own the PCS 3hp 36" fence model and love the saw. I moved up from a contractor style saw and like you wondered if I really needed the 3hp. I ended up purchasing the 3hp because my old saw is a 1.5hp and I wanted a saw with more HP. I purchased mine during the promotion where they offered either the overarm dust collection or the mobile base. I opted for the dust collection instead and purchased the industrial mobile base. If you do decide to get a PCS make sure you consider getting the industrial mobile base it is an awesome base! Good luck.
 
After weighing all options deciding on a table saw I have decided to go with a Sawstop contractor 36" saw.  I only do DIY projects at home so I just don't need the power of a 3hp saw.  I had a Bosch contractor before my shop fire and it was alright but terrible for dust collection.  I want to see how effective the CT48 will be with this saw.  (fingers crossed)

After a very frustrating session last weekend cutting shelves with my TS55REQ and having slightly varying dimensions (even using the parallel guides) I've finally broken down to the fact that I need a table saw for less cursing and swearing in my shop.  Looking forward to having my first "true" table saw!
 
DrD said:
Just an interesting note about the SawStop.  Just because you might have a SawStop doesn't mean you can "let your guard" down.  The break on the SawStop works ONLY while power is being applied.  If you finish your cut, turn the power off, and accidently get into the blade as it is spinning down, you can get an unwanted visit to the emergency room - voice of experience.  So while the SawStop is a GREAT saw, you still must be vigilant while working with it.

Definitely agree that you must be vigilant regardless of whether you have a Sawstop, but disagree about the blade brake not working while the blade is spinning down.  It should still activate.  It sounds like you have an experience where this happened?  If so, that saw was not working properly.
 
I'd really check on the efficiency of the dust collection on the Sawstop Contractor Saw. When it first came out I read some negative feedback on the contractor saw. I've never used the Festool vac on a table saw. However, the volume of sawdust produced from a table saw is a lot and it's possible the volume may require a larger opening in the hose and vac to make it move as desired. I would also assume that, without a cyclone attached to the vac you would fill up a Festool dust collection bag quickly with a table saw. I doubt you'd need the 3 hp for most jobs anyway.  Most jobs can be done with a 1 3/4 hp motor, especially with a good one. It's nice to have the power but it's rare to require it.
 
In May I upgraded from a Rigid 36" 1.5 hp contractor saw (sold it for $300) to the Sawstop Professional 36" 3 hp model. The difference is like night and day. More horse power make a BIG difference cutting 8/4 hard maple and Purple hart hard wood. The old Rigid did not have a riving knife which made cutting some wood a real challenge. Plus the movement of the trunnion, on the SawStop, is so smooth and effortless that it glides up and down.

The down side is the price. But then again, the SawStop price is about the same as a Powermatic, Delta or other Professional  cabinet saws, but you get the SawStop breaking technology.
 
DrD said:
live4ever "Definitely agree that you must be vigilant regardless of whether you have a Sawstop, but disagree about the blade brake not working while the blade is spinning down.  It should still activate.  It sounds like you have an experience where this happened?  If so, that saw was not working properly."

Yup, 2009, using one of the first SawStops to be had in Cincinnati. Hit ting the STOP paddle turns off the power to the motor, and to the electrical sensing system, so there is nothing to detect a finger, other flesh or even a hot dog.  Removed most of the flesh on my left thumb.

DrD

Just spoke with SawStop rep.  They say the the brake is still operable while the blade is coasting.  DrD - I feel your pain.  Maybe when they first came out it wasn't like that.  Ain't no way I'm going to test it.
 
I recommend the PCS 3hp professional model as I switched 2 years ago from a PM 66 that was a great saw- just wanted the added safety of the brake. Great build quality in both. I have found that having a sharp blade and a saw with power helps remove a lot of unsafe maneuvers on a table saw.

Frank
 
Len said:
DrD said:
live4ever "Definitely agree that you must be vigilant regardless of whether you have a Sawstop, but disagree about the blade brake not working while the blade is spinning down.  It should still activate.  It sounds like you have an experience where this happened?  If so, that saw was not working properly."

Yup, 2009, using one of the first SawStops to be had in Cincinnati. Hit ting the STOP paddle turns off the power to the motor, and to the electrical sensing system, so there is nothing to detect a finger, other flesh or even a hot dog.  Removed most of the flesh on my left thumb.

DrD

Just spoke with SawStop rep.  They say the the brake is still operable while the blade is coasting.  DrD - I feel your pain.  Maybe when they first came out it wasn't like that.  Ain't no way I'm going to test it.

Len and all other reading this post. My apologies.  My wife just informed me that the accident with my thumb was NOT with a SawStop, but rather with another saw, and that was the reason we went looking for a SawStop.  I guess old age is catching up. Again, my apologies for getting the facts confused.

DrD
 
Zacharytanner said:
I recommend the PCS 3hp professional model as I switched 2 years ago from a PM 66 that was a great saw- just wanted the added safety of the brake. Great build quality in both. I have found that having a sharp blade and a saw with power helps remove a lot of unsafe maneuvers on a table saw.

Frank

+1  [wink]
 
I own a Sawstop industrial model. I looked at the Professional, Contractor, and Industrial models before I bought. It was a close call between the Professional and Industrial models. The Contractor model was a long way from the other two models.

I think you would be far far happier with the Professional model rather than the Contractor model. You would get much better dust collection and smoother cuts with the table saw.
 
WarnerConstCo. said:
Screw Steve Gass. 

Thank you Steve Gass.... for developing a saw that helps protect my job. Can't fly helicopters without fingers.

You may not like his push for the brake system to be mandatory on all saws, but he HAS developed a line of some of the best Table Saws, even without the safety brake. 

I hate seeing this thread be hijacked by the typical Anti-Gass SawStop haters. You can go to Sawmill Creek if you want that conversation (There are plenty of them). The OP wanted to know which "SAWSTOP" to buy, not have to read rhetoric about political issues. [dead horse]

[2cents]

Frank
 
Well if you have the money for the SawStop then I am sure you will be happy with it. Fit and finish on the ones I have seen are very nice. I use an older Bridgewood 3hp cabinet saw outfitted with an Incra fence, Delta riving knife, Delta overhead guard and use push blocks, Incra sled etc for safety. I keep it aligned and find it very safe to use. Biggest risk to me on a saw is kickback and I have taken one to the chest so now I use all the above devices to protect myself. I have never had a close call with my hands as I use equipment that keeps my hands out of harms way. I would recommend looking for a used cabinet saw in the $1000 range and setting it up properly.

As to the SawStop technology, I have yet to see a demonstration where they show an actual live attached finger being thrown into the blade's path. Until then, I am not convinced of it working. Hotdogs don't prove much to me.
 
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